Washed Tractor - Now Won't Start

Gave the TO-20 a gentle wash this morning, and now the starter won't crank.

I have voltage to the gearshift start switch, but no voltage through the switch, to the starter cable side.

And, I'm getting continuity to ground on the starter cable side of the switch.

Did I short something out in the switch?

Thanks.
 
I doubt you shorted out the switch, it just be slightly out of adjustment. With the tractor in neutral I have used a large open ended wrench to
jump the start switch terminals to verify if indeed starter, switch or start switch out of adjustment. If the starter spins when jumped it is likely that
the switch plate needs th be moved forward or back. If you have a parts book you will see how it works. Other wise it is a $12 switch.
 
Hmmm, with starter lever engaged you should have continuity on starter side to hot, not to ground. (I'm assuming you did your test with
the lever engaged.) Sounds like the water has somehow created a dead short. You might just put it in the sun for awhile and let it dry
out some. As others mentioned, the switch is adjustable, and replaceable.
 
OK, here's an update/more information:
1. I removed the starter cable from the starter side of the gearshift starter switch, and I do have voltage through the switch, when I put the shift lever in "start" position.
2. With the starter cable removed, the starter side of the switch is not shorted to ground.
3. With the starter cable removed, I have continuity/dead short from the starter terminal to ground.
3. If I jumper directly from the battery to the starter, the starter turns, but the tractor does not start.
4. If I try to start the tractor normally, nothing happens: starter does not turn.
5. The lights do not work. (They are on a toggle switch, and are wired so that they should work when the ignition key is on.)
6. Earlier today, I successfully roll-started the tractor. While it was running, I turned on the light switch, and it died. I tried roll-starting it one more time, and it didn't start.
Thanks for your help.
In the meantime, it's a fine yard ornament!
3264.jpg
 

you can park that in my yard anytime :)

seems to be a matter or tracking down the short, turning on the lights killed it, so I would look very close at the light wires and switch, see if you have something frayed

if your lights are wired so they will only come on when the switch is on even more possibly the light circuit
 

Blow compressed air into the back of the ignition switch . It sounds like you might have more than one problem caused by enthusiastic washing . Continuity across the starter switch when engaged doesn't indicate the amperage though .
Great looking tractor by the way !
 
Great looking tractor Tom!
I would disconnect those lights and rewire them so they didn't go
through the key switch. Although I doubt they are your current issue.

Where can you jump the battery to and get the starter to roll?
Tractor in neutral, key off, does it roll if jumped to the starter?
Will it roll if you jump across the switch itself?
I'm leaning toward a dirty/loose connection that got wet.
Easy and cheap fix once you find it.
 
Thanks for the help, guys. (And the compliments. They always look nicer parked under a shade tree, even if they aren't running. :wink: )
I'll do some more troubleshooting tomorrow, starting with the lighting circuit and the ignition switch.
I don't know much about automotive electrical systems, but fortunately this one is pretty simple. I'm sure I'll be back for more advice - please be patient!
I tried to be careful with the washing, Charles, but I agree: it sounds like I have more than one problem.
 
Ok, thanks all, got her running this morning.
It must have been a wet/dirty connection in the gearshift starter switch: as I mentioned, I was getting continuity through the switch, but no voltage on the starter side of the switch. (Like Charles said: continuity, but no amperage?)
I was checking one more time...and the starter cranked!
I did some mowing, then bladed the driveway to work the tractor to get everything warm, and to charge the battery from all of my antics.
I did a little reading in the archives, and what I was calling a "dead short" on the starter was just the high current draw of the starter motor.
Thanks again, and lesson learned: don't wash the tractor! :oops:
 

if my tractors looked like yours I would wash them too ;)

did you paint it? I am working on my 49 but I am afraid the color is too blue and not enough grey. I will live with the 49 being a little off but would like the next two to be more correct. I find 3 different shades of grey in the layers as i remove the paint. the original looks to be close to what I am painting mine, but I see the darker grey like yours as well out there.(but not in the many layers on my TE20). At the store I find Ferguson dark grey but thought it was a later shade used with the red when Massey took over. Oddly enough there is a grey/gold metal-flake color in the layers I like :p
 
Thanks, Indy. Yes, I painted it, using VanSickle Ferguson Gray, mostly brush/roller, with hardener. (And some rattle can.) It seems to be holding up after a few years, but it is kept in the garage.
 

Nice to know it's up and running again and that it was a simple fix .
The shade of grey of your tractor is similar to mine Tom , a Ferguson colour called ' Stoneleigh Grey ' , it was used on later MF35 tractors but to my mind is a much nicer colour than the original .

3285.jpg


Indy the flecked metal grey could be the ' Slate Grey ' used on the MF135.
 

you fellas have some purty tractors!

I hope to have a few one day soon. This is as far as I am so far with my 49 TE20. I started out with a rattlecan and simply wanted it grey and not the brush-painted maroon it was when i got it. but it got out of hand and now its come to a full removal of paint and almost 70 years of dirt n rust

C1quttE.jpg

TQYp3vr.jpg


as it was when I brought it home
eGjZoAC.jpg
 
Yep, it's called "mission creep". I'm a victim.
That "maroon" was probably Massey Ferguson red painted
without hardener that faded due to the lack of hardener.
My TE20 is painted similarly, but not brush painted.

3287.jpg
 

I been lookin at your tractor Royse, you sportin 24inch rims on that from say maybe a MF 35? They look awesome! also look like one piece rims.
 
They are 14.9 x 24's. The rims are shop built by a previous owner.
One has a solid 28 inch center, like off a Ford 8N, cut down to fit
in the 24 inch outer rim and welded solid all the way around.
The other is a scalloped 28 inch center like a Ferguson or later
Ford, cut down to fit the 24 inch rim and welded in the places
where the scallops reach. Neither one is adjustable any more.
That picture shows the "solid" center. They don't bother me much.
They run true and for my use, I won't need to adjust the width.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top