new to me TO20 with HUPP HI/LO

Indy4570

Member
So I found this on CL and saw the lever, it was a parts tractor and i need a hood n gril and a few odds n ends so I haggled a bit n made the deal, drove 3.5 hours to go look at it n hauled it home. I gave $700 for it. Carb was off it but came with it, starter needed a bendix, new one came with it, front rim is shot, rear rim needs repair. tranny wasn't shifting into gear, (detent balls crudded up ). turns out a couple brush springs are broken in the starter. I didn't want to part it out if it was a runner, so my 48 TE20 became a donor. the carb was used from my 49 TE20, with a lil messing around I got the thing runnin, runs good, governor was alil sticky, 3 point didn't want to come up. but it didn't smoke. 3 days later I am running it around and everything is working as it should including the HUPP Hi/Lo. It has 40# plus of oil pressure. I am a happy camper. oh, it didn't have a gas tank but had the tank tool box.

It had enough lichen growing on it to feed a reindeer ;)

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this is what it looks like 3 days later after a power wash and a lil primer to slow down some rust until I gt time to clean her up proper, she will have to get in line ;)

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anybody seen this seat before? I think it is missing a spring or shock
yZVW7vb.jpg


it has the dash vent, but I thought TO20s had standard engines in them? this one has a z120 continental like both my TE20s, it does sport the american electrics but it has a totally different intake/exhaust manifold

TK5Oyr2.jpg


the 49 in progress

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the 48 in need of some love n parts

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they all run pretty well, the 48 was supposed to be rebuilt
 
(quoted from post at 23:51:47 09/04/17)


anybody seen this seat before? I think it is missing a spring or shock
yZVW7vb.jpg

Looks like a Knoedler seat. Yes, it is missing a spring and shock. Take a look here. Also if you search this site further, there is more info. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=783678
 
Are you sure it's a TO20?
I'm not a Ferguson expert, but I thought the TO30 had
the air breather through the dash and the TO20 did not.

Seat looks like a Knoedler to me. I take them off my Fords.
They seem to put me way too close to the steering wheel
and then it is uncomfortable to work the pedals. YMMV,

Looks much better now. Any idea what the bracket on the
right front axle in the before pictures was used for?
Looks to be shop/purpose built.

I have a Hupp 2 speed in a Ford 8N transmission.
Mine's not a combo, it has high and normal only.
Might be the same Hupps for Ford and Fergy as far as I know.
 
(quoted from post at 00:42:30 09/06/17) Are you sure it's a TO20?
I'm not a Ferguson expert, but I thought the TO30 had
the air breather through the dash and the TO20 did not.

Seat looks like a Knoedler to me. I take them off my Fords.
They seem to put me way too close to the steering wheel
and then it is uncomfortable to work the pedals. YMMV,

Looks much better now. Any idea what the bracket on the
right front axle in the before pictures was used for?
Looks to be shop/purpose built.

I have a Hupp 2 speed in a Ford 8N transmission.
Mine's not a combo, it has high and normal only.
Might be the same Hupps for Ford and Fergy as far as I know.

the engine is a Z120 continental engine the same as the TE20s I own, the serial number makes it a 1950 TO20, as for the dash vent its hard to say what could have happened in the 67 odd years its been around, but it looks to be the same age as the rest of the tractor. It does not have the oil filter under the carb like the TO30s have and I believe it would have a Z129 engine of it was a TO30?
NoTZ7N0.jpg


the iron on the front matched one that used to be on the other side, I believe he pushed round bales around the field with it.

My Hupp is a Hi low and if yours has the same lever with the ball it is either a HI/LO or one they made that was convertible to the HI/LO. As fas as my research tells me anyways. The right steering arm was bent in order to clear the shifter as it must be pulled sideways to shift into low range. It has to be steered a bit to the right to gain enough clearance to pull it sideways far enough to pull it up then into low range. you can tell when its in low as it sticks out bout a half inch from the case in low range. you have to pull the lever at the knob end about 5 inches to the right in the neutral position in order to get it to shift into low properly. it pops back in if its not pulled right far enough

you can see the bent steering arm in this pic
TK5Oyr2.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 23:15:59 09/05/17)
(quoted from post at 00:42:30 09/06/17) Are you sure it's a TO20?
I'm not a Ferguson expert, but I thought the TO30 had
the air breather through the dash and the TO20 did not.

Seat looks like a Knoedler to me. I take them off my Fords.
They seem to put me way too close to the steering wheel
and then it is uncomfortable to work the pedals. YMMV,

Looks much better now. Any idea what the bracket on the
right front axle in the before pictures was used for?
Looks to be shop/purpose built.

I have a Hupp 2 speed in a Ford 8N transmission.
Mine's not a combo, it has high and normal only.
Might be the same Hupps for Ford and Fergy as far as I know.

the engine is a Z120 continental engine the same as the TE20s I own, the serial number makes it a 1950 TO20, as for the dash vent its hard to say what could have happened in the 67 odd years its been around, but it looks to be the same age as the rest of the tractor. It does not have the oil filter under the carb like the TO30s have and I believe it would have a Z129 engine of it was a TO30?
NoTZ7N0.jpg


the iron on the front matched one that used to be on the other side, I believe he pushed round bales around the field with it.

My Hupp is a Hi low and if yours has the same lever with the ball it is either a HI/LO or one they made that was convertible to the HI/LO. As fas as my research tells me anyways. The right steering arm was bent in order to clear the shifter as it must be pulled sideways to shift into low range. It has to be steered a bit to the right to gain enough clearance to pull it sideways far enough to pull it up then into low range. you can tell when its in low as it sticks out bout a half inch from the case in low range. you have to pull the lever at the knob end about 5 inches to the right in the neutral position in order to get it to shift into low properly. it pops back in if its not pulled right far enough

you can see the bent steering arm in this pic
TK5Oyr2.jpg
Yes sir, I've seen a lot of parts swapping on the Fords over the years too.
Whatever it takes to get a farmer by at the time I think.

My Hupp has a home made handle on it, not like yours or the other original.
It doesn't pull out though like my Sherman combo does.

I just bought a TE20. I get quite a few carbs to rebuild for the
Fergy's and had to test them on a Ford until now. Then I had to
swap the throttle shaft back out and measure the throttle opening for idle speed.
Now i can test and adjust them before I send them back with no modification after testing.

Here are before and afters of mine. It basically "buffed right out".
Other than a tire and the wiring.

3117.jpg


3116.jpg
 
It's a 1948. I think the brake pedals are shop built.
Fairly nice job of it, other than the right one being square bar.
On the bright side, both brakes work very well.

3123.jpg
 

thats a pretty nice setup. so your 48 should hve the same engine as my three. Z120A. The manifold change interests me and I have seen the style on the TEs on the TO30 while my TO20 has the intake portion above the exhaust instead of below. it also has the 3 bolt flange with adapter below it. I am toying with the idea of a vertical exhaust. I wonder if one style is more efficient or produces better HP over the other...

The TE20 style
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The TO20 manifold
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I am in the Missouri Ozarks now but used to live in Ovid, I know your neck of the woods well ;) You a member at MMOGTA ? Used to go to that show near Oakley all the time. Closer to Brant I think.
 
Yep, mine has the Z120 in it.
I'm not a MMOGTA member, but attend pretty much every year.
I don't know if one manifold is preferred over the other.
I could see the intake over exhaust helping a Kerosene burner.

As far as the exhaust goes, that subject comes up often.
I have both on the various tractors around here.
The under slung exhaust is "exhausting" when hooking up implements.
There are the fears of catching hay on fire with the under slung.

The vertical catches tree limbs and "rains" on you pretty much every
time you start the tractor from condensation after warm shutdown.
Then the blowing of dust off the ceiling of old barns bothers some.
If left outside, the vertical may allow water into the engine.
There are also more exhaust fumes in your face when operating
a vertical under many circumstances compared to under slung.

An elbow or rain cap on the the vertical fixes or at least reduces
many of the negatives to a vertical. I have a loader on my NAA.
Under slung won't fit. So my vertical rains on me at start up.
But an elbow keeps most of the rain out if I accidentally leave
it outdoors and keeps it from blowing excessive dust and fumes.
It also rains when started in the winter. More condensation.

I haven't notice any HP difference between the exhausts on the same model.
 

did some closer inspection ans sure enough somebody cut the original gauge hole bigger to install this dash vent air cleaner.

suits me fine though, I like it ;)
 
so I noticed when I got the tractor a lil plumbing rubber plug in the place where the switch should be for the gearshift starter, after pulling the switch I found I have the rocker part but no rod was attached, after fishing around I found the rod down in the cavity. The end was smashed like it had been banging into something in there. with a little work to straighten the connecting piece and some narrowing to fit the rocker elbow to the aftermarket switch the lil TO20 now starts with the gearshift. WOOT!
 

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