1956 Massey Ferguson TO-35

Blackhorse

New User
I have no park at the coil. Replaced the coil, still no spark. The replacement coil has 1.6 oms from pos to neg terminal on coil. It has 8.73 oms with pos on pos terminal and neg in the coil wire location.
 
whenever I have an electrical issue with one of 35's (no start) I automatically replace the condenser. usually solves the problem. cheap and easy.
 
What you have is a 6 volt coil.

Are you running it on 6 volts?

If on 12v, it needs a 1.5 ohm resistor ahead of the coil.

Can you make it spark by shorting the points? Should see a spark at the points.

If it has been run on 12v without a resistor, the points are probably burned.

Todays points and condensers are generally of poor quality, that is a good place to start.

Also check the distributor shaft for side play. Needs to have very little wear. If worn the points won't stay set, another cause of early failure.
 
What is the resistance on the old old coil? Is tractor 12 volts? You might just put the old coil back and look elsewhere. The coil is
almost NEVER the problem in this situation, where the tractor had been running before, no matter what the voltage tests say, UNLESS it
crapped out in a few minutes after getting hot. Put old coil back on and take cap off distributor and crank engine, out of gear, and if no
spark at points run match cover thru points a few times to dress them and see if that helps. As Steve said replacing condenser is cheap and
easy, but I'm betting on points if tractor has been sitting. Sometimes the problem is the ignition switch or a wire connection to that
switch or the connection going through the side of the distributor from the coil. Of course, we are all assuming you have good cranking
power.
 
(quoted from post at 05:06:37 09/06/17) You probably have a ceramic resister under the dash that's burnt in half causing no spark.

There is juice at the pos side of coil and ignition switch works.
 
Every now and then my Cockshutt coil needs a jolt. Got to hold a plug wire with a well insulated tool, or have someone you don't like hold it... and while the key is on, churning the starter... slowly draw the wire back closer to the plug. If this is going to work, the thing will start on three, and whoever holding the wire won't trust you anymore. I was told it is something like polarizing a coil.
 
"The omn reading on the old coil from pos to neg terminals on coil is 3.6. Indicates a winding problem?"

No, that coil is wound for 12 volt, no resistor needed.
 
(quoted from post at 12:54:45 09/06/17) "The omn reading on the old coil from pos to neg terminals on coil is 3.6. Indicates a winding problem?"

No, that coil is wound for 12 volt, no resistor needed.

That reading is with the coil disconnected, research tells me it should be 1.6, 3.6 indicates a problem. I do have juice to the coil and no spark at the coil. Points are opening fine.
 
With OLD coil installed, and distributor cover off, cranking tractor (out of gear) do you have spark across the points? If not, it's
probably either points or condensor problem, unlikely to be a coil problem. Not clear to us you have tested that.
 
(quoted from post at 19:05:24 09/06/17) With OLD coil installed, and distributor cover off, cranking tractor (out of gear) do you have spark across the points? If not, it's
probably either points or condensor problem, unlikely to be a coil problem. Not clear to us you have tested that.

No spark at points, I will replace the points and condenser and report back.
 
Good. But you can try dressing the points by running matchbook cover thru them first, easy, and might work. Points get glazed, even
new ones.
 

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