ignition coil

PhilH · Aug 18, 2017

[b:dfb7ae725a]I have a TO-30, which just did much work to it. It was running fine and I went to bush hog and it started to stutter and run horrible. I have put new points in, carb is new, new plugs. rotor button. I checked my coil which is 12 volt and it is registering from 1.3-1.8, so I am thinking bad coil. does anyone have a part # from NAPA or any other auto store as I am in need of the tractor and like to get the part local thank you.[/b:dfb7ae725a]

phil(va) · Aug 18, 2017

NAPA IC14SB is what you want. A little over $20 if memory serves. Not sure that's your problem, but the ohm numbers you gave do
indicate a problem if you are running a 12 v. system.

Steve@Advance · Aug 18, 2017

That coil is intended to operate with a 1.5 ohm resistor. Even though it says 12v, some 12v coils need a resistor, it's the way they are wound internally.

You can replace it with the Napa coil phil(va) recommended, or add a resistor. I would lean toward replacing the coil.

Might want to pick up another set of points too. They are probably cooked from carrying too much load from the wrong coil.

PhilH · Aug 19, 2017

[b:9141348e35]Thank you both, I have a ignition resistor already in line, should I remove it? I have the 12 volt conversion via alternator. I hope I do not sound confusing just a liitle weak with the 6 volt 12 volt ignition.[/b:9141348e35]

grayrider · Aug 19, 2017

If you get the napa coil that phil(va) mentioned then
remove the resistor as you will not need it since the
napa coil already has it internally, I have several of
them and no problems

phil(va) · Aug 19, 2017

Yes, like grayrider said, remove the resistor if you get the recommended coil. It is possible the resistor is the problem anyway.

Ron(Ont) · Aug 19, 2017

(quoted from post at 17:23:48 08/18/17) [b:fe3af54cbf]I have a TO-30, which just did much work to it. It was running fine and I went to bush hog and it started to stutter and run horrible. I have put new points in, carb is new, new plugs. rotor button. I checked my coil which is 12 volt and it is registering from 1.3-1.8, so I am thinking bad coil..[/b:fe3af54cbf]

Before you go too far, pull the wire from the top of the distributor and prepare to hold it about 1/4" from the engine block. With the [b:fe3af54cbf]transmission in neutral[/b:fe3af54cbf], ignition key on, and the help of someone if necessary, try to start the tractor. If you get a good long hot spark, you do not have a coil problem. Return the wire to the distributor and pull a convenient wire from a spark plug and repeat. You should have 1/4" to 1/2" long spark, more white than orange. (Unless your wires are full of cracks, you should not get a shock. :twisted: )

PhilH · Aug 19, 2017

[b:6e590356e1]Thank you all for the help, but right now I do not know where to go from here. I have replaced the points, rotor, condensor, plugs, wires , coil, cleaned the carburetor 3x (no dirt found at any time) replace the fuel filter and still sputters where I cannot even drive it. This is very confusing as a week ago I put all back together cranked it up and no issues ran like a champ 1 week later same symptoms as when i first started. I looked at my plugs tan in color, just do not know where to go from here. Can valves out of adjustment do this :?:[/b:6e590356e1]

phil(va) · Aug 19, 2017

Did you pull the plug from the bottom of the carb and check the fuel flow? It should flow steady and strong. Catch in clean can and
watch it flow for several minutes. You might have a blockage somewhere, in filter in tank, in filter on side of carb, or somewhere in
the line or carb. What fuel filter did you replace? Do you have an inline filter? If so, remove it. Keep trying, it will work out.

PhilH · Aug 19, 2017

[b:7426c775a8]With the tractor running, I have no fuel flow when I drain it, let it sit for a minute with it off plenty. I can shut off the petcock disconnect the supply line and plenty of fuel going to the carb. I have cleaned the mesh filter at the fitting. I have connected my dwell meter and it sits around 55, I have adjusted with .022, thru .019 no change.[/b:7426c775a8]

phil(va) · Aug 19, 2017

When you cleaned the carb, did you pull and clean the main jet, the one that requires a 3/8 slim deep well socket to remove and has
multiple very small holes all down throughout the brass cylinder? I assume you did, but thought I'd ask. Just soaking it doesn't
always clean it.

PhilH · Aug 19, 2017

[b:3694daeed6]I am going to take the carb off again and see if any trash got in it, but will investigate the main jet to ensure all is clean. One item I have noticed is that when I turn the idle mixture screw nothing changes, also I have a exhaust leak and I can see heavy soot around the leak. Also another item I have not replaced is the rotor cab as i will inspect for cracks in it to see if this is a issue also.[/b:3694daeed6]

Ron(Ont) · Aug 20, 2017

You never really said, did both my spark tests pass?

PhilH · Aug 20, 2017

[b:2cb9a725fc]Yes the spark test passed. Talked a a few others and they stated check for a crack on the rotor cap. I have not seen a obvious crack is there any "smoking gun" that you can see or perhaps not?[/b:2cb9a725fc]

Ron(Ont) · Aug 20, 2017

You can test each spark plug wire to chassis in turn and that should rule out the cap and rotor as problems. You can then test the wire to the top of each plug. If it sparks well there, then plugs should be good as well.

Ron(Ont) · Aug 20, 2017

Let me know on the spark plug tests above. Does it sputter at all like it is trying to start?

If not, do you have any ether? If you get ready to start, then spray a good 2 second blast into the air filter. Try and start it. If it kicks and sputters you know the spark is working and you have a fuel problem.

phil(va) · Aug 20, 2017

Cap may show carbon 'tracks' if bad. Crack may be hard to see.

PhilH · Aug 20, 2017

[b:a6ae0ffe41]The tractor will start and run just sputter real bad and idle very rough and not accelerate any. Also on the exhaust their is a small leak that comes out of the manifold and very dark soot, like it is too rich but the spark plugs are tan

I know years ago my dad's tuck had a cracked rotor cap and I could not see it but hs mechanic did. Will a conventional 4 cylinder cap work or does anyone have a part #.[/b:a6ae0ffe41]

Ron(Ont) · Aug 20, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:01:49 08/20/17) [b:abdda06c90]The tractor will start and run just sputter real bad and idle very rough and not accelerate any. Also on the exhaust their is a small leak that comes out of the manifold and very dark soot, like it is too rich but the spark plugs are tan.[/b:abdda06c90]

The way you are describing this it does not sound like spark. The fuel is too rich so either too much gas or not enough air. A quick check, try removing the air cleaner. And check your idle and fat carb. adjustments and try making them a little more lean.

PhilH · Sep 2, 2017

[b:b74ceb4922]Okay I believe the TO-30 has won. i have tried every check, replaced all of the ignition items, check timing, rebuilt carb and to no avail. The tractor starts sputters and will not stay running, accelerates and sptters more. Plenty of fuel, replace the gas still runs horrible. I have timed the distributor checked with the timing light still runs horrible any ideas :?: :?: :?: [/b:b74ceb4922]

CK 58' · Sep 3, 2017

(quoted from post at 22:51:54 09/02/17) Okay I believe the TO-30 has won. i have tried every check, replaced all of the ignition items, check timing, rebuilt carb and to no avail. The tractor starts sputters and will not stay running, accelerates and sptters more. Plenty of fuel, replace the gas still runs horrible. I have timed the distributor checked with the timing light still runs horrible any ideas :?: :?: :?:

Did you check the air filter housing? Disconnect the air tube and see if it runs better.

PhilH · Oct 2, 2017

Did you check the air filter housing? Disconnect the air tube and see if it runs better.

[b:7f7733fd9a]
I did this and no change. I do have a question about the ignition resistor, once it is connected should it drop 12 volts to 6 volts? I am thinking it is used to lengthen the life of the points. How do you test one to see if it is doing what it is suppose to? Also does anyone have a NAPA part # for points for a TO 30 TIA. [/b:7f7733fd9a]

PackardV8 · Oct 2, 2017

Did this happen BEFORE or AFTER u did the
tune up???

PackardV8 · Oct 2, 2017

Check for a sloppy worn distributor bushing.
Also sounds like a bad condenser.
Could be wrong spark plugs if it was running
fine before u did tune up.

Ballast resistor can be BYPASSED for a test.

Otherwise, it is probably a fuel problem.

Charles in Aus. · Oct 2, 2017

Try checking for an vacuum leak around the inlet manifold or carburettor flange gaskets . Spray some WD40 around them while the tractor is running , if it speeds up , even for a moment then this may be the trouble .

PhilH · Oct 3, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:13:15 10/02/17) Did this happen BEFORE or AFTER u did the
tune up???

[b:de2238c8e1]
I did the tune up and it ran like a sewing machine for a week. I then replaced the resistor after the tune up. I have also rebuilt the carburetor and even put a new one in still no change. I also checked my intake as the way suggested no difference. This is just a thought could have my original resistor gone bad then I replaced the points and condenser and it ran fine until the points burnt. i am thinking of replacing the points again as perhaps they may have shortened life by a bad resistor, any thoughts?[/b:de2238c8e1]

PhilH · Oct 7, 2017

[b:9df496c419]Okay all here is a update, I finally got my TO-30 running like a sewing machine again. If you follow my post you will note I did all as prescribed and also more than I needed to on my own diagnostics. One item that i kept reoccurring on these post was the points, now mind you i had replaced them already so did not feel as this was a issue as it ran for 1 week like a sewing machine then went back to the original problem of sputtering and misfire. I decided to replace the points as thinking not that expensive of a part and when i removed the points i saw a piece of metal from the points had arced and was stuck so the points. So I replaced the points and she started up and ran just like it did before. Thank you all for the help, so with this being said, is this common to have points go bad so quickly and if so is the remedy just to carry extra points or should I go electronic, comments appreciated.[/b:9df496c419]

Charles in Aus. · Oct 8, 2017

Such an arc on new points can really only be caused by a faulty condenser.

PhilH · Oct 8, 2017

(quoted from post at 01:16:49 10/08/17)
Such an arc on new points can really only be caused by a faulty condenser.

[b:3903558509]That is good information to know as I did replace the condenser also, thanks again.[/b:3903558509]

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