steering timing

PhilH

Member
[b:bd66bc3077]I have a TO 30 that I had to replace the flywheel gear, so I split it in half. I put it back together but when I did split it in half i took the tie rods and disconnected them from the steering knuckles not the sector arms. I went to put the tie rods back on the knuckles and what appears to have happened is that I put the gear box out of time. I was turning the wheel and all of the sudden one of the tie rod arms quit turning and the other continued. I was reading my manual and little confused how to put the sectors in time again. Do I need a pickle fork to take the tie rods from the sectors or is there a way to do this without. Also do you set the toe in on this and if so how much, TIA[/b:bd66bc3077]
 
Not exactly sure how to get the gear back in time. But just having the tie rods off shouldn't have had anything to do with it getting out of time.

There is a gear slack adjustment screw with a jamb nut on each side of the gear box. I don't know if backing that screw out would give enough slack to get the gears out of time, or back into time. Possibly one has come loose and backed all the way out? Something to check before going into the gear.

But for one arm to move, and the other not, sounds like something is very worn or a broken tooth on a gear. If there is a broken tooth on one side, you should be able to feel it skip when the missing tooth goes by the pinion gear.

When the arms are properly timed, with the steering straight ahead (turn the wheel lock to lock, count the turns, go back 1/2 way), the ends of the arms should be aligned just above the top bolt that holds the radius rod ball to the case.

You don't need a pickle fork to get the ends off. A pickle fork will work, but guaranteed to ruin the boot. Try this, loosen the nut, but leave it on to protect the threads. Hold a big hammer or block of steel against the front side of the sector arm, where the end stud comes through, use another big hammer and wack the opposite side. What this will do is squeeze the tapered hole slightly and pop the stud loose. You may have to hit it several times, helps to put some pressure with a pry bar while you hit it.

To set the toe in, first the steering gear needs to be right, so this will be the last thing you do after getting the gear repaired and the gear lash adjusted.

Again, do the "center the wheel" count. This is important so once the adjustments are made, you will get full turning range, both ways. Tie the wheel, or get some reference in case it moves during the procedure.

Tie a string to the draw bar, pull it tight around the back if the rear tire, centered with the axle. Extend the string to the front, past the front of the front tire. Hold it tight and move the end of the string left and right until the string just touches the front of the back tire. What you are doing is establishing a straight line down the side of the tractor. Tie the string to something heavy you can move back and forth to hold the string tight, just touching the front of the back tire. Do the same for the other side. Hopefully the front axle is set narrow enough for the string to be outside the front wheels, if not you may want to set it narrow enough for the string to clear the wheels.

Next, take measurements from the front and back of the front wheels to the string. Adjust the tie rods until the wheels are parallel with the strings. If you want to give it a little toe in, set the front about 1/8-1/16" further from the string.

Take your time, check and double check each side before locking down the clamps. Of course the condition of the tie rod ends, spindle bushings, wheel bearings, straightness of the wheels, radius rod ball and sockets, center pivot, steering knuckle clamps and keys, all have an effect on the alignment. But, this isn't a race car, just get it close and all will be well.

Hope this helps, let us know...
 


This scares the pants of you when it happens , anyone who denies it is either really cool or lying to save face .

From memory because it's been a while since I've done one .
Raise the front wheels off the ground first .
The alignment is achieved by disconnecting the arms from the quadrants within the steering box .
Lift one side right back and the opposite fully forward until they are completely disconnected , then turn the steering wheel anticlockwise until the two arms start to clatter , turn the steering wheel clockwise , both arms should then mesh into the pinion. Pull both arms down and they should then rest exactly above the top or rear stud [ depending on wear ]that secures the foot peg on both sides. The steering wheel should have two spokes facing forward at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock and one facing the rear at 6 o'clock ( as viewed from drivers seat).
 

Of course I should have noticed that you are asking about a TO30 . The instructions I gave are for a TE20 , may or may not be the same . :oops:
 
Charles, you could be right on the gear getting out of time on the TO30.

I didn't realize the gears could over travel when disconnected. Makes sense now that they could.

Phil, be sure to check that before tearing into the gear.
 
Charles in Aus has it correct. Toe in I believe is from zero to 1/4 inch. Figure 1/2 way between is 1/8 inch.
Still wobbling? a true copper penny (pre 1980?) behind the stabilizer arms in the sockets will tighten things up.
I held mine in place with a small dab of RTV while installing the rods and caps. Grease attracts dirt.
 
(quoted from post at 06:40:48 08/02/17) Charles, you could be right on the gear getting out of time on the TO30.

[b:c797353f07]I didn't realize the gears could over travel when disconnected. Makes sense now that they could.
[/b:c797353f07]
Phil, be sure to check that before tearing into the gear.

Thank you all for the responses, as this is exactly what happened. I turned the steering wheel did not realize that the one side had jumped off the one arm quit moving. This was a great help thank you all.
 

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