What's a reasonable price for a Parts Tractor

enrightj

Member
Hi everyone,

I have a TEA-2085 which I broke the timing chain on. I know I (at the very least) need a new timing cover, timing chain, governor weight assembly and fly wheel. I haven't checked the valves yet, but I'm sure I will need to replace one or two. Someone in my area is selling the exact same model of tractor for $400 CAD. After transport I would probably be looking at around $600 CAD at the end of the day. They claimed that the tractor ran a couple of years ago, but the timing would need to be adjusted. My questions are as follows:
1) Is this a reasonable price for a parts tractor and would this be cheaper than buying the pieces that i need separately?
2) Would it be better to purchase the tractor and try getting it running and use my old tractor for parts?

Thanks,
Julian
 
I own and Operate and maintain TEA-20.

I purchased a nice looking non runner for $900.00,another for $300.0 and shall be looking at a third non runner (in a pile of parts disassembled) and hope to bring home with a 2 bottom plough for $500.00.
I look at it this way. When the Tires needed replacing on my runner I had spares. When the Starter failed I had spares. When the Rad failed I had spares.
I have been fending off individuals who would like to purchase parts as I hope to continue to use my YTEA-20 fro 20 + years.

Bob...
 
Here is some info that you may fine handy:
INFO used if SPROCKETS and CHAIN are replaced:
INFO you may REQUIRE
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:

(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:

(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:

(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:

(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:

(6)There are NO timing MARKES on the NEW Sprockets. You may whish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:

(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR hols in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four hols and all teeth line up. These hols are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over.. It's good practise to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity:

There are usually shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft:

Cheers Bob...
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For a non running tractor in this(Texas) area $400. If it has very good wheels and
tires(not weathered) maybe another $100 tops. If the tractor needs timing adjusted it
may have same problem.At least you know it has a problem also. But if it has a good
engine replace it in your tractor.
 
When, and if you install new sprockets and chain on your TEA or another TEA here's some info that shall assist you in installing the Timing components:

The last three TEA 20's I installed new components on, did NOT have the timing marks on the sprockets:


Bob...Owner operator TEA-20
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Thanks for all the feedback and information!

I am holding off on purchasing the parts tractor because of what miner09 suggested.

Since I posted this, I went ahead and removed the head to check for any bent valves. I don't see any immediate issues, however I'm guessing this is something that might not be visible. Are there any best practices for checking for bent valves? I heard that spraying break cleaner behind the valve and checking for leaks is an effective method. Is this correct? Also, I understand that this is a bit off topic so I would be happy to start a new thread about this.

Julian
 

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