Z-120 engine block

Bill Brox

Member
Hi,

From time to time people have cracked engine blocks, and the block in question is the Continental Z-120 or Z-129 block. Maybe other Continental blocks are prone to cracking too.

Has anyone ever thought about the possibility of having new blocks made. I mean, there are aftermarket companies who cast cylinder blocks. Many of them are very expensive but most often the reason for that is that they make high performance blocks for Chevy Small blocks, or big blocks, or Fords or Dodge. In other words, racing engines. So, they are modified and such things would make them quite expensive. A stock block for a four cylinder engine and in addition a block for wet sleeves should not be as costly as a racing V8 block.

Any thoughts ?


Bill
 
In a nutshell as Steve@advance mentioned, without a huge demand there won't be anybody doing a run of theses castings.

Speaking from experience having used an aftermarket block for a small block chev from Dart , I would love to see an American made aftermarket block for the continentals but sadly the price of said block would likely run at least 1500-2000 bucks if there were a good market for them.

And I would take my chances JB welding a poor factory block before I bought one from china or elsewhere .
 
Better to find a good engine swap candidate from some other more common and widely available engine.
But noone ever seems to want to discuss that possibility.
 
Or maybe:

Maybe find an engine mfg'er willing to alter the casting molds to allow for mating their engine to the Ferguson transmission. And allowing some sort of bolting for the front xle mount.

Quite possible for the aftermarket hot rod V8 reproductions (e.g. SBC) to blank off one bank of cyilinders from the SBC mold and modify the back of engine to fit Ferguson trans. PONTIAC did this in the 1962 - 1968 time frame. Blanked off the V8 to a four cylinder in their casting operations.
 
I wouldn't trust the JB Weld approach, although I know many have had good results. I, personally, would use welding electrodes specially designed for use on cast iron. Have never done it, but I think the area has to be heated up beforehand, welded, then allowed to cool very slowly. ....Or I could be getting that process confused with some other process! :oops:
 
Welding:
That presents a problem. IF cracked between #2 and #3 cylinders
(they usualy are) then the crack extends down into the center main
bearing support. So that would require a tremendous amount of vee'ing
out the support to sufficiently weld up the crack. OTHERWISE, any
cracking that is left NOT welded will only continue to crack, even if only
due to vibration and normal thermal changes. THUS cracking back into
the repair weld that was just performed.
 

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