My second find? Today is a TED20 but the id plate is very difficult to read, i believe the last 4 digits are 2829 but the preceding numbers i cannot see well yet.
Any non destructive tips or trick to finding its date of manufacture?
It does have a casting on the gearbox saying Reduction gear and a company name, and a cutout inthe right rear of the hood for the oilbath aircleaner.
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Thank you for that, Bob was a great source of info for me in the past.
I realised after I posted it that the gearbox info was not very clear so I have taken another picture.
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Best guess so far on the serial number is TED622829, but since they did not make a tractor with a six digit serial that started above 5 I will have to try something else to bring out the number or ID the gear box. The info from Bob might mean my gearbox was built on 3rd of September 1951 as it says. 3, 9, 1.
 

Yes 1951 , the tractor would have left the production line a few weeks after the transmission case was cast . You seem to have a Howard reduction box fitted , or at least the cover plate from one . I would be bursting to find out if the rest was inside if I were you . :)
 
Then if it is the original transmission the idplate number must read. 222829.
I have only had one fergy, back in about 2010. Wonderful machine that I did lots of learning on.
I built a FEL for it and it did a power of work.
How would I identify the internals of the Howard box as opposed to the standard Ferguson one? Remember I cant do a ground speed test as
the engine is seized at the moment.
 

Take off the side plate and see if it is connected to anything , there is an ancillary set of gears bolted to the back of the gearbox that you should be able to see through the same hole .
 


They are often in a sad and sorry state and replacement gears and shafts are not available . The designed purpose was to slow the tractor down for the rotary hoe to work well . Many thought that this would give it more pulling power which it did until the axles sheared . The broken teeth are from forcing the poor thing into gear while still moving .

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Looks like all I have is the reduction gear cover plate. All looks the same as my last fergy, from what I remember.
The plate has a central boss that looks like it is supposed to support a shaft.
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While I have been looking for parts for my TEF20 I decided to look a bit closer at the TED20 I picked up as part of the deal.
The engine had seized at some point in the past with an alternative fuel tank hooked up to the fuel line for the carby.
I did the usual thing suggested like thin hydraulic fluid into the plug holes, rock the tractor every time I walk past. Also putting the weight of the tractor on the crank handle to provide constant pressure against the seized parts.
Well nothing seemed to move much and the poor old crank handle just bent.
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As soon as I got the tank off it became obvious why a secondary tank had been hooked up. I'm very open to suggestions of how to fix the tank, as a new one is not an option and the only tractor wrecker I know off has shut down.
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I reckon you bought a completely knackered tractor. You must take this thing down to the last nut and bolt, clean and inspect every little bit of it, then find replacements for what is buggered up, then put it all back together- slowly and carefully. THEN you will have a machine that might last the rest of your life. To cobble away at it, there will never be a value , your problems will never end....
 
I dont mind knackered, a little bit like myself. This one came as a part of the deal to buy my TEF. Budget will always be an issue thats why I take the time to ask around and see what experience has taught other tractor operator/ restorers. I have learned so many ingenious ways of fixing or making reuseable the original parts from this forum and others like it.
I get a lot of enjoyment from working with mechanical processes and know just enough to know that I dont know much.
But if I can atleast get it to run, someone with more know how than me may take it on as a project.
When it was sitting in the scrap yard, it looked just like scrap, but when I looked into the hydraulics, i could tell that they had been well maintained, or rebuilt as they do not fit with the state of the rest of the tactor. Lots of fun to come.
 
We'll as long as you're happy with it as it stands... i'll say this, we know you're not a 'whingin' pom' that's for sure!
As our mate PCP would say about your tractor... nay bloody worries mate, she'll be right!
 
Well I took the rocker cover off and was plesantly surprised, its not as bad as I thought. My original plan was to pull the head and have a close look at the cylinders.
When I took out the push rods only 1 was badly bent but by sheer fluke I heard something rattle as took the push rod out. Turned out to be the cam follower being pulled up out of its bore by sticky goo on the end of the push rod. I could only just see it with a long light put down the oil filler pipe.
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But once I removed the fill pipe I was ablr to get the cam follower out and have a better look.
 
I got the cam follower out with a bit of luck and although it has been chipped on the inner edge their is almost no visible signs of wear on the cam contact surface.
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At about this point the postie arrived with what I hoped was the head gasket I had ordered. But no, it was an inspection camera I have waited on for over a month, with some help from the usual 12year old tech expert its up and running but the 45 deg mirror was toast in the packing so it straight ahead pictures only.
I put it down the plug holes for a look see.
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Seems I took mostly video rather than still pics, but the cylinder walls are in better shape than predicted and with next to no obvious rust.
So this meant a decision to go for plan B and try to unstick the engine from the sump up rather than pulling the head off.
 
What exactly is the model of this engine- and how come there are no common parts for it? The poms must still make spares for these- don't they? That thing seriously should come apart and get a good cleaning if nothing else- btw, a magnet on a stick gets things like this out of places like that.... at least there isn't any worse news...
 
Many of the parts are still very available. All online, and I usually pay about the same for postage as I do for the part. The magnetic pickup I have was too weak to lift the cam follower from straight above cause it was still full of greasy goo. So thats why I took off the filler pipe to get it out, cleaned and then back into its bore.
I'm told that the base of the cam followers is also a good indicator of the lubrication history of these engines. When the oil is poor or low the cam follower stops rotating in it's bore. Just moves straight up when pushed by the cam lobe and down by the push rod. This leaves an oblong wear mark on the contact surface between cam and follower.
For the moment the TED is purely to keep me learning and occupied till my TEF parts arrive and at over $50 for the last 4 bolts I had to buy the only cash spent will be on the TEF till it is done. Or my Minister for War and Finance will have my head.
 
Re reading, I see that I went off on a tangent and didn't answer the question.
The engine is a Standard Motor Co engine, I believe made in 1953.
It is the 85mm bore TVO engine.
Wiki.
The engine was the Standard wet liner inline-four engine. Dimensions were:
Petrol-paraffin engine, 85 mm bore × 92 mm stroke, capacity 2,088 cc, compression ratio 4.5:1 [5]
The larger capacity of the petrol-paraffin engine was to compensate for the power reduction resulting from the low compression ratio. Newer versions of the petrol only engine has 85 mm bore as well.
 
Well the pics you showed of the liners, valves, even the outside of the head itself .... just don't look much like i remember on either the 23C or the Canadian market TEA20-85.... neither one is nearby just now...... now.... if it was all washed off and spiffy looking'..... i might recognize something familiar.
 
aaah... no. That picture doesn't make me feel any better. But i do like the rear tires/tyres. A mower? Cricket pitch or a bowls...??? What do they call the bowling green? My old lady lady used to bowl. Tell ya, in my book, usually an 'industrial' . used for greens keeping etc- or government owned- were better maintained and less abused that a family farm one... but in your case, i'll make an exception... are u near the ocean? Did salt have anything to do with its condition you reckon?
 
It looks like it has been used as a beach launcher, I can see no other reason for all the surface corrosion.
It came to me from a car wrecker as part of the deal to buy the TEF. The yellow colour indicates that it might have been a council mower.
 
Ogh. The end of many a nice tractor. Launching a hole in the water.
If all the boat lovers used their tractor to tend a garden or some livestock, they wouldn't have to spend all day and all their money trying to hook a bottom feeder... fish... i suppose house cats need it..
 
A bit of pressure directly on the crank and she moved. First one way then the other.
It is now spinning freely on the starter motor.
I have ordered a distributer cap leads plugs condenser and points. While I wait for them to arrive I will soak the carb in starting fluid and make a new choke cable/rod, as this one is missing.
 
Must have been one of those dodgy lifters that bound it up. Good.
You don't need to soak the carb, you need to fill a swimming pool with diesel fuel and roll her in there for a few weeks. The whole engine is too full of grunge. You got to clean it all out before trying to use it again. It'll be worth the time, really. Are you going to take the head off?
 
I'm going to see if I can find a compression tester somewhere and test each cylinder using just the starter motor.
I would love to find a way to flush the block without disturbing the wet liners. But I have not heard of one.
 
Tony, have you heard of anyone using the waterless coolant, I like the idea of a zero pressure coolant. But all that is besides the point as I should also look at removing the water pump as it has dried out completely and I can see particles/lumps of corrosion in there.
 
Waterless coolant? Like jello pudding? then PCP would show up with his spoon.
I rarely put any radiator i own under pressure, the caps are nearly all loose. Yes the starter cranking should give you a good reading after a few turns. You had the head off a few weeks ago didn't you???
 
The cylinder head I took off was my diesel tef20. With that one i am waiting on some banjo bolts from the UK. Nothing available in Oz.
Im glad to hear that I can get a compression reading using the starter.
While I have your attention can you tell me the correct name for this corroded Triangular part behind the draft control spring. Its only called 44 in my manuals.
Definately needs replaced.

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(quoted from post at 13:30:42 06/14/17) The cylinder head I took off was my diesel tef20. With that one i am waiting on some banjo bolts from the UK. Nothing available in Oz.
Im glad to hear that I can get a compression reading using the starter.
While I have your attention can you tell me the correct name for this corroded Triangular part behind the draft control spring. Its only called 44 in my manuals.
Definately needs replaced.

try this page, This is a good sight, and it gives you prices.https://www.headstractor.com.au/tra...draulics-1124/hydraulic-lift-cover-parts-1191
 

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