help to35 governor advice required

to 35 z134 engine, have installed new governor assembly (shim not installed) adjusted governor linkage by John UK instructions from this site. with throttle rod removed from governor lever and engine running have no resistance from governor rod,with engine stoped this lever has 1.25 inch of free travel.lever is free in bearings,the governor tapered cone is installed with tab to 12 oclock . can somebody outline proceedure to determine if shim is required .It seems to me that the movable cone does not contact the lever in case although is properly installed and not worn. the movable governor cone is free in camshaft and drain hole is open. this has me stumped and need some help Thanks

this is not a documented procedure but this is how to get at a starting point, and possibly dangerous for nervous folks:
1. ok, you need another set of hands to do this,(to shut it down if necessary and take slack out of gov.arm.
2. With engine not running, disconnect linkage from gov arm to carb.
3. Hold carb rod against idle set screw.(towards back of tractor)
4. Start engine while holding carb linkage back.
5. Note governor linkage movement as you let the carb to gov linkage out s-l-o-w-ly a little bit to raise RPM.
6. Gov linkage will move the arm that hooks to the carb linkage back just a little.(extra set of hands will be good but it will be crowded)(also dangerously near fan blades.) if other person will hold the gov. arm towards front of tractor as you raise and lower RPM. You will notice the amount of movement the gov. will make to shut down the carb to prevent overspeeding.
7. After finding the aproximate distance then hook the carb linkage back up with only a thread or two longer than the extended gov. (this prevents overreving).
8. Then when you Idle down and throttle up you will see linkage movement and then you can follow other documented examples from this web site.
It is a combination of 3 or 4 differnt linkages and springs. The examples given at this website will get it working ONLY!!!! If the linkages etc. do not have too much wear. If wear is in the equation then you can get it to shut down the engine but will not gas up under load at the proper RPM.

Good Luck, and for God's sake be careful and have a calm person help you...it takes patience and some practice.
Jim

I forgot to add:
Also, the person holding the carb to gov linkage rod will need a pair of leather welding gloves as the exhaust manifold will get hot in a hurry. You don't want to turn that rod loose from an unsuspected burn. As it will race the engine uncontrollably, and possibly blow it up.

Here is a copy of a reply from a few pages back. It is basically the same as jturn said, just my take on it.

One thing misleading, all the travel on the governor arm is not controlled by the governor, just the first 1/2 inch or so, with the arm pushed all the way forward, nearly hitting the belt.

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Governors can be frustrating! I've tried the method in the IT manual and didn't get good results.

It helps to know the theory:

The governor spring wants to pull the throttle plate open, the spinning weights in the governor want to push it closed. It's a balancing act between the tension on the spring and the force of the weights.

Here we go!


There could be a problem with the governor, easy enough to find out!

First, make sure the linkage is connected properly. There should be an adjustable rod from the carb throttle lever to the upper hole in the governor arm.

Then a vertical rod with a spring at the bottom connected to the lower hole in the governor arm.

With the dash lever in the idle position, the vertical rod should be in the down position, the carb throttle lever pushed against the idle stop.

With the engine off, move the dash lever to the fast position. The carb should now be full open.

If all that looks good, go to the next step.

This involves starting the engine with the linkage disconnected, so having an assistant to do the starting and standing by in case of a runaway is best.

With the engine off, set the dash lever just high enough to fully open the carb throttle. Remove the front pin from the upper hole in the governor arm. You will now have full control of the engine speed, so be careful!

Hold the carb throttle against the idle stop, have the assistant start the engine. Slowly and carefully bring the RPM up while gently holding the governor arm in the forward position. At some point, around 1200-1500 RPM, the governor arm should begin to move back.

If it doesn't move, something is wrong with the governor, and disassembly of the front cover will be involved.

If it does move, note the position where it stops moving toward the back of the engine.

Stop the engine. Then adjust the length of the disconnected rod so when the governor arm was at the furthest back position it moved to when running, will be where the carb throttle will be against the idle stop. What you are doing is finding the maximum travel the spinning weights will move the governor arm back. Lock the adjustment and reinstall the pin.

Start the engine and see if the governor will try to control the speed. It should have "some" control, it may not be right yet, but you should be able to see the governor working.

If you have a tachometer, or a good ear for it, now you will adjust the maximum speed.

To do this, loosen the U bolt nuts on the lever above the governor arm. Move the dash lever to the fast position. Start the engine, it should remain at idle. Slowly rotate the loose lever to put some tension on the governor spring. When the RPM's get to where you want, lock the U bolt down.

You may have to play with some of the adjustments, but this should get it working. Best to eventually check it with a tach before calling it good.

Hope this helps, let us know.

Thanks to the people that replied to my governor problem. I used the procedure that STEVE recommended and governor working properly THANKS AGAIN