TO30 valve adjusment

Hey guys. So i had to find a new head for my tractor - just bought the tractor found out the head was cracked. Have a used head already gone
over ready to be put back on the tractor. Can someone go over valve adjusment for this? Or send e a link to a forum that had it spelled out
for me?

Thank you in advance

hope this will help I found it in the archives of this great forum.
adjusting valves TO 30

You will get a lot of opinions on how this should be done, so here comes mine...

The biggest problem is the engine needs to be run up to operating temperature before the valves are set for final assembly. That means dealing with the gas tank. One solution is to hang a lawn mower tank with a hose, or connect a long hose to the tank and support it to the side, out of the way.

Here we go...

Once that head has been installed, bolts torqued, rockers on, before the plugs are in, hand turn the engine through with the front pulley nut while feeling each rocker. There must be "some" slack when the valve is closed, but not so much that the rocker will hammer or let the lash cap escape. Once that valves are rough adjusted, put the plugs in, fill the coolant, temporary the gas tank, and get it running. As the engine is coming up to temp, watch the rockers to be sure they are all oiling. They wont oil much, but should be enough to be wet, occasionally drip.

When the engine is up to temperature, thermostat open, coolant full, shut it down, retorque the head bolts.

You'll need to have all the tools ready, wrench and screwdriver for the rockers, and a .013 feeler gauge. The final adjustment needs to be done hot.

Pull the spark plugs. Start with the front rocker, turn the engine until the valve closes, then turn it about another 90*. Set the lash where the feeler gauge just drags between rocker and the lash cap. Keep the feeler in, turn the engine some more, keep feeling for the loosest point, tighten the jam nut, feel the clearance again. The first one will take some time, but you'll get the hang of it, they will go faster.

Keep adjusting down the line, turning the engine, feeling the loose point, tightening the jam nut...

(Now, at this point, someone is going to say "That is the hard way to do it!" Well, they are right, it is the hard way, but it is the most sure way to KNOW they are set correctly. All solid lift cams have what is called "quieting ramps" ground on the lobes. This is the only way, other than xray vision, to KNOW the lifter is in the middle of the base circle when the lash is finally set. If you choose to use the "TDC turn it 180*" method, that is fine too, just be aware some might be noisy when done!)

Put the plugs back in, start it one more time with the cover off. This is the final test. If any are clicking, start putting the feeler gauge in until you find the loose ones, readjust them.

Now you can put the cover on, and the tank, and know they are done right, done once!