TO35 input shaft seal

Bill in CA

New User
I'm trying to replace trans input shaft seal in 1955 TO35 dual clutch - I've got the housing loose - removed the cover for the counter shaft and removed the circlips/snap rings and installed bolt in counter shaft but shaft will not move forward - is there something I'm missing or do I need to do more dis-assembly. I need help/advice so I can replace clutch and get back using tractor. Thanks
 
I am in the same boat. April 20th 18;35 or so you will find my post with pics of the same deal. Steve L. got into this with a single stage clutch, but I rckon we got another ring or something hanging up the job. I will try to repost the pics now it I can find them-
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Thanks for the reply Tony, I missed your previous post, but I did find an earlier post (see link below) if I read it right - all you need to do is remove that round cover below the input shaft and pull the counter shaft out and down and the input shaft should come right out - I even talked to a tech at the local tractor shop and he said basically the same thing - although he was hesitant to give more info (would rather me take it to his shop) my counter shaft only moves out about half an inch then stops - I know my shaft seal leaks because I have to keep adding gear oil and I'm replacing the clutch (was oil soaked). I haven't taken off the top cover as yet - did you find anything in there that would release the input shaft?
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The shaft needs to go back into the 'box to let the gear drop down slightly on the dual clutch model. The threaded hole in the shaft is for pulling it back out into the gear and bearing. On a 135 you actually have to split the gearbox off the tranny housing to let the shaft back but not on your 35 model.
Hope this helps ....Sam
 
Thanks, I'll give that it a try - all this time I've been trying to pull it out and I should be pushing it in - now that makes more sense, I couldn't figure out why that cir-clip had to be removed if the shaft moved out. It keeps it from moving in.
Thanks again.
 
Uh huh. I got the drift of guys talking about the lower shaft, that I call the pto shaft, which if the front section of that came out, yeah, the teeth on the gear of the upper shaft wouldn't be meshed into anything, and the cone? with the square hole could/ may come forward.... I wasn't intending to field strip this thing to the swinging drawbar, but I am working my way in that direction.
 
You found that from 2002? I didn't think Al Gore invented the internet till 04... yep, the names are changed, but the idea is the round plate on the bottom has to come off, the end of the shaft in there has to come out- however, and THEN the main shaft cone housing will come forward and the world will be a happier place for it. Trouble is, I don't know if the seal was even leaking, but now that I am this far, and have a new seal here already.... got to jump in with both feet huh?
 
Tony, I've been pouring over my manual for you to figure out what you need to do. The reason you can't pull out your input shaft housing is that you need to pull out the live pto shaft, which is behind the plate below the input shaft housing.Nice picts btw,then using internal snap ring pliers remove the snap ring, then you can remove the shaft. There are internal threads on the end of the shaft to aid in pulling it out. (The manual shows a somewhat complicated procedure for reinstalling it.)With the live pto shaft removed the mainshaft carrier should just pull out.
Now if anyone can instruct me on the proper procedure for removing the main drive shaft seal without damaging the main drive shaft retainer assembly on a single shaft drive I will be forever grateful.The manual stops short here in explaining this. The seal sits halfway in the housing behind a washer like part at the end of the shaft where it meets the larger part of the housing. I started to drive the washer out thinking is was the seal with a pipe before realizing that something was wrong. I've never removed a seal from a rabbit hole before.
 
Hey Steve,
Does your manual say whether or not the trans/pto have to be in any particular gear/position - I removed the snap ring and the pressed off the bearing - and the shaft itself will not move out what I believe is the carrier inside the gearbox - when you say out, you do mean toward engine - samn40 stated into gearbox -I can't get mine to move either way - it only moves the whole thing not just the shaft - pretty frustrated at this point.
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Bill,
The manual says:Remove the live PTO shaft by sliding it out of the front of the transmission. This allows the PTO drive gear to drop down so the main drive shaft retainer can be removed. That's what your picture shows, in the manual diagram this shaft is coming straight out. The end of the shaft is threaded, a bolt might give you some purchase,as this needs to slide through the PTO drive gear, there also appears to be another snap ring before the drive gear in the diagram.I also live in California.
 
I just done the seals in a 65 today and the shaft had to go back like a 135.Instead of splitting the gearbox off the trans housing ,I removed the hydraulic pump.
As I said before on early tractors you don't have to do this but I think from your pics that your gearbox is like the 135....so the shaft needs to go back.
Sam
 
Thanks for the input - but thanks to Steve L who sent me info on my dual clutch set up the shaft does indeed pull forward towards the engine - once you remove the bearing assembly on shaft - there is a thrust washer on the shaft that comes off to reveal as snap ring that holds the counter shaft in - remove the snap ring and the shaft pulls forward - I will post pictures of the process when I re-assemble (I couldn't on dis-assembly because it was raining)
 
(quoted from post at 18:32:20 05/19/11) Thanks for the input - but thanks to Steve L who sent me info on my dual clutch set up the shaft does indeed pull forward towards the engine - once you remove the bearing assembly on shaft - there is a thrust washer on the shaft that comes off to reveal as snap ring that holds the counter shaft in - remove the snap ring and the shaft pulls forward - I will post pictures of the process when I re-assemble (I couldn't on dis-assembly because it was raining)

Hoping to get some feed back from this post. I have a to35 that I am having issues getting the input shaft out.
 
did you ever post the pictures? I am also in the same boat, tractor currently split and trying to change oil seals on the pto input shaft.
I started this journey by needing to change the PTO clutch plate that a previous owner bent on installation and it finally shed all of its linings...

Thanks!!
 
sperkes, did you get it figured out? The previous posts give a lot of great info, but I also would like to see pictures just before I start into it so I don't miss something.
 
Hi Hirschi,

Hopefully this will answer your question. I have just removed the input shaft on a 1961 MF35 and this is what I posted on my Instagram page https://www.instagram.com/lrtmms/

In order to remove the dual clutch input shaft on an early Massey Ferguson 35 tractor, the power take off (PTO) shaft has to be withdrawn to allow the PTO drive gear to drop down to allow the clutch input shaft to be withdrawn. In order to withdraw the PTO shaft, first remove the PTO shaft bearing and housing. So that that the PTO shaft can be carefully withdrawn without damaging it and the main cast iron drive gear, it is best to make an adapter to attach a slide hammer to the threaded hole in the shaft. When the PTO shaft is withdrawn, the PTO drive gear can be dropped down to allow the clutch input shaft to be easily withdrawn from the gearbox casing.[/img]
 
(quoted from post at 07:48:22 08/05/17)
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guess I was lucky back when I went through this with John Uk guiding me along. My end result was no better because I didn't polish the shaft where the seals ride.My advice is to just park on an incline.
 
I got the retainer assembly out but how the heck do you get the snap ring out of the back to remove the shaft? Looking at it from the back side, the only snap ring i can see looks like it is holding the bearing in and the gears are in the way to get to it.

Am I missing something here?
 

Hi Jim,

Do you mean the inner circlip on the input shaft assembly?


This picture shows the inner circlip holding the first bearing for the PTO input shaft in place. The inner main drive input shaft is in the process of being installed with electrical tape wrapped onto the shaft to protect the new seal.

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That is the one I was talking about but I figured out the bearing was pushing on it and that was why I couldn't get it to rotate to the opening. A couple of smacks with a deadblow hammer and it turned to where I needed it.

I now have it all apart and got the front (bigger) seal out and found one on here and have it coming. They don't have the rearward (smaller) seal listed on here and I haven't found it anywhere else. Does anyone have a part number or size or any other way to get one cross referenced?

thanks for the help.
 

Thanks for the quick responses LRT. When I saw the part number you gave me, it sounded familiar. That is the one I have coming. I had a brain cramp in my previous post requesting a part number. I need the bigger one that seals the PTO main drive shaft pinion on the dual clutch model. I apologize for any inconvenience.

In the I&T shop manual it is item 37 in fig MF357. I hope you have that number also.

thanks for the links and for the help.

Jim
 

Thanks to your link I found the seal number I am looking for. Everyone has it but under different models etc. I need to get better at searching i guess.

thanks again for the help and quick responses.

Jim
 
Thanks for the photos and information. I managed to get it apart.
2 questions:

Can any of you provide the part number for the snap ring on the lower shaft. The first one you come to when the lower cover is removed. (1959 TO35 with dual clutch). It's about 1.5 ID and 3/32 axial thickness.

Is there any trick to getting the lower shaft to go back in? When I first started pulling it out it felt like it dropped on the inner end and I tried to push it back in to no avail. So I just pulled it out and got on with the input shaft dissection. It might be nice to put it back together.

TIA,
Mike
 

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