TO 35 Governor problem

Good Morning All,
I have tried and tried to adjust my governor. I can get it to keep from over revving at high speed, but can't get it set correctly to give gas at lower rpms. I have read every governor post in this website trying to figure out. I even tightened up the lower spring going down to arm from governor linkage. I tried to reset the screw on the governor arm stop tang. Got any other ideas?
Thanks
Jim
 
Oh yea, forgot to mention, I am setting the low speed rpm at close to 1100 and putting in high gear while standing on brake to get the governor to give gas. I can raise the rpm above 1600 and it works.
 
I've got 2 fe35's with standard motors petrol engines. One governor works perfect so I set every thread to same amount and still the other runs away.If there's slop in the hole or pin on gov.
arm even that minute amount makes a difference. Good luck
 
Welcome jturn!

This is a copy of a reply I gave over in Restoration a couple days ago, it should cover your application.

Governors can be frustrating! I've tried the method in the IT manual and didn't get good results.

It helps to know the theory:

The governor spring wants to pull the throttle plate open, the spinning weights in the governor want to push it closed. It's a balancing act between the tension on the spring and the force of the weights.

Here we go!


There could be a problem with the governor, easy enough to find out!

First, make sure the linkage is connected properly. There should be an adjustable rod from the carb throttle lever to the upper hole in the governor arm.

Then a vertical rod with a spring at the bottom connected to the lower hole in the governor arm.

With the dash lever in the idle position, the vertical rod should be in the down position, the carb throttle lever pushed against the idle stop.

With the engine off, move the dash lever to the fast position. The carb should now be full open.

If all that looks good, go to the next step.

This involves starting the engine with the linkage disconnected, so having an assistant to do the starting and standing by in case of a runaway is best.

With the engine off, set the dash lever just high enough to fully open the carb throttle. Remove the front pin from the upper hole in the governor arm. You will now have full control of the engine speed, so be careful!

Hold the carb throttle against the idle stop, have the assistant start the engine. Slowly and carefully bring the RPM up while gently holding the governor arm in the forward position. At some point, around 1200-1500 RPM, the governor arm should begin to move back.

If it doesn't move, something is wrong with the governor, and disassembly of the front cover will be involved.

If it does move, note the position where it stops moving toward the back of the engine.

Stop the engine. Then adjust the length of the disconnected rod so when the governor arm was at the furthest back position it moved to when running, will be where the carb throttle will be against the idle stop. What you are doing is finding the maximum travel the spinning weights will move the governor arm back. Lock the adjustment and reinstall the pin.

Start the engine and see if the governor will try to control the speed. It should have "some" control, it may not be right yet, but you should be able to see the governor working.

If you have a tachometer, or a good ear for it, now you will adjust the maximum speed.

To do this, loosen the U bolt nuts on the lever above the governor arm. Move the dash lever to the fast position. Start the engine, it should remain at idle. Slowly rotate the loose lever to put some tension on the governor spring. When the RPM's get to where you want, lock the U bolt down.

You may have to play with some of the adjustments, but this should get it working. Best to eventually check it with a tach before calling it good.

Hope this helps, let us know.
 

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