TEA20 Engine rebuild advice

JohnPom

Member
Is it possible to rebuild the motor, Sleeves, Pistons, Big Ends, by just dropping the sump and taking the head off?
I don't want, at this time, to have to separate gearbox and front wheels.
Ta, John
 

Ha john, if its a tea 20 yep. If your going to replace sleeves, i would suggest a sleeve puller.I tried removing a sleeve and broke it. but mine where real stuck

use a puller as per manual or found on here. by searching forums

Pull piston out the top of block, do what you want reinstall with new bearings assuming crank is all good...

You can buy rebuild kits for inframe rebuild from bare co etc..

Good luck
 
Please get a good manual from this site, it will walk you through a rebuild. I also think the rear bearings can be serviced without splitting.
 
Tell ya mate, for all the work you will suffer thru laying on your back under that thing.... another couple hours and you would be able to do a GOOD job... comfortably. First thing to go on any tractor is the rear main bearing- got to split it to get at that thing, the clutches are always best to replace at a rebuild, and it it so much easier to flop it around on a pallet than the way you are thinking of going at it... yeah, need a manual or 3...
 
Your QUESTION : Is it possible to rebuild the motor, Sleeves, Pistons, Big Ends, by just dropping the sump and taking the head off?.....

Yes butttttttttt that is one tough way to learn. You shall be overlooking several important components that shall fail and bite you in the DERRIERE French for your BUTT.

A comprehensive SRVICE MANUAL is something you may consider tracking down. Yes both my TEA-20 SERVICE MANUALS were purchased off e-bay.

Here are some pics:

Bob..
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Here's another little tidd bit of info:

The Governor weights were ready to fall off/detach from the holding pins. Chain, Sprockets, Governor ,Gaskets, Front oil seal were replaced at sometime in 1967> 1969 when a MAJOR was done to the ENGINE. I rotated the crankshaft CW/CCW and noticed 4 TEETH on the FLYWHEEL had to move before the DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR would move. Now only one tooth on the flywheel will pass before the Rotor moves. The governor was sticking at full throttle and would not idle down.

Info I compiled when REPLACING Crank sprocket ,Camsprocket and Timing Chain.
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:

(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:

(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:

(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:

(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:

(6)There are NO timing MARKS on the NEW Sprockets. You may whish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:

(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR holes in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four holes and all teeth line up. These holes are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:

(8) It's good practise to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft):

Cheers
Bob...
 
Hi for what it's worth I am having my motor
rebuilt as we speak, I thought it was just a
case of buying an engine kit and Bobs your
Uncle but no I will be getting crank ground,
cylinder recesses machined, remachined block
face, regrind Cam lobes and reface Cam
followers. I figured if I'm going to fix the
old girl up then do it once and do it right.
 
Ta, everyone.
The only reason not to split the motor was that being in a paddock haven't got the luxury of a flat, even, concrete surface.
Did it once and a pain to get it lined up.
But a tractor mechanic has told me how to make a simple track system, like the original, and inexpensive.
So shall give it a go.

Ta, John
 
(quoted from post at 16:55:52 01/14/17) Ta, everyone.
The only reason not to split the motor was that being in a paddock haven't got the luxury of a flat, even, concrete surface.
Did it once and a pain to get it lined up.
But a tractor mechanic has told me how to make a simple track system, like the original, and inexpensive.
So shall give it a go.
Ta, John

Let us know the design of the inexpensive track system, as i that could be handy. Andy or john the pom :shock:
 
Well, don't tear the innards out or attempt to keep precision pieces- like bearings and rings- clean and free of $4!t out in a cow paddock. Hook on with a neighbor kid's monster truck or whatever and tow it to a solid flat spot near power and water.
If you buy him Queensland beer and petrol for his Norton, Toecutter... I mean PCP- might be able to help you bugger- I mean fix this up... don't attempt anything out in the bush where it is... drag it home first.
 

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