tea20 timing chain

Hi Guys. checking out the timing chain. Is this stretched. Can you shorten these or are they no good once they are stretched?

And should the bottom weight hang down like that ?

pix are rotated 90 cw,

Cheers

I thought someone more familiar with the TEA20's would have come along by now, but ...

The timing chain is a one time use, it will need to be replaced. Good idea to examine the sprockets closely or just replace them to be safe.

There is also a cam timing procedure using different gear positions to "degree" the cam. I really don't see the reason for such on a low performance engine, but that's the way it's made. The shop manual explains it.

As for the weights, can't really tell from the picture, but they are known for having problems. Again, shop manual or someone that's been there can help.

That chain is junk. As for the sprockets, they also will wear and can cause a new chain to be slightly loose once it is installed. If your not unemployed I would step up for the new sprockets. As for the weight, does it act as the others? Or is it particularly sticking out? It is possible, once you get the cam sprocket off you can identify the problem, if any.

I had to replace the components in your picture on my TEA 20:
Hope the below info is of assistance:

(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:
(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:
(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:
(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:
(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:
(6)There are NO timing MARKS on the NEW Sprockets. You may whish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:
(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR hols in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four hols and all teeth line up. These hols are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:
(8) It's good practise to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft:
Cheers
Bob...

Hi

Cheers John deere. I have read your post before and its a good right up so thanks.

Yeah a new chain is the way to go. I ll add it to the rebuild list. :?

The weight fixtures are good so will check it out and stop the low hanging weights

Those weights appear to be new , most have very worn surfaces from rubbing up against the 'mushroom'. Just as well in any case , a failure of even one weight can destroy the entire front assembly , new chain and cover included !

Yeah charles the pins that hold the weights on look new, so recon someone has replaced or repaired it, but did not do the chain.

I have come across you pix of weights distruction on here :shock:


chain is in the santa sack that will be coming from bepco....

A new chain will make a big difference to the way it runs .