exhaust leak

Hello all... new to forum... I have a TO20 and its been fouling plugs quite a bit...Ive noticed black soot around the exhaust pipe to manifold connection... I am assuming this could be the culprit... my question is this: is there supposed to be a gasket there? if so, any idea where I could find one? part number?
any input would help, Thanks...

Black means carb is set too rich, no gasket at that joint.

Got that right. I cheated. Hi Temp orange RTV on the joint once it is taken apart. Put it together and wipe off the excess. The rest will slowly burn off as time goes on. No more noise. No more soot stains.

The plug fouling...

Is it burning excess oil (sticky, shiny black deposits), blue smoke under load? Or are they gas fouling (dry, flat black deposits), black smoke?

If it's burning oil, some hotter plugs, a thermostat to get it up to running temp, some non-foulers as a last resort will help.

If gas fouling, could be the main jet is set too rich, carb flooding, wire mesh in the air filter is clogged (a common problem often overlooked).

The black soot at the exhaust fitting is a symptom of another problem, not a problem in it's self.

its wet gas fouled... ill look at air cleaner ... thanks for all the input

any tips on setting the jet???

If you suspect the carb is running rich, it can be adjusted.

But first, be sure everything else is up to par.

Check the point gap and condition of the points, distributor, wires, replace or clean any fouled plugs, be sure the timing is close.

Clean the air filter mesh, check for obstructions like dirt daubers, mouse nests in the inlet pipe. Be sure the choke opens fully. The carb and fuel system needs to be in serviceable condition, not flooding (dripping gas when shut off). If the fuel tank is contaminated with water, trash, rust flakes, the same will be in the carb. Be sure the screen is in the sediment bowl, and is clean. You can flush some of the contamination by removing the drain plug in the bottom of the carb, let some fuel flow through, replace the plug.

Now, to adjust the carb...

You'll want to make all adjustments at operating temperature.

Adjust the idle mixture first. That is the small adjustment screw in the side, just below the flange plate. The initial adjustment is 1 1/2 turns off the seat. This adjustment is backward of most carbs. Turning the screw IN richens the idle mixture. Backing it OUT leams the mix. With the engine idling, turn the screw slowly OUT until the engine begins to falter, then turn it back in until smoothest idle is obtained.

Next, adjust the main mixture. That is the larger screw on top of the front of the body. The initial adjustment is 1 turn off the seat. Set the engine at full governed speed. Locate the governor linkage in front of and behind the carb, pull the linkage back to bring the engine to idle, then release the linkage. Listen to the engine as it returns to speed. Start turning the main adjust screw in (to lean the mixture) about 1/8 turn at a time. When the mix gets lean, the engine will hesitate and stumble as it comes up to speed. Then begin backing the screw out 1/8 turn at a time, repeating the test each time the screw is turned. What you want is for the engine to accelerate crisply with no hesitation. A single puff of black smoke is preferable. Repeat as necessary until you are satisfied with the performance.

Of course carb adjustment is not a fix-all solution. A lot depends on the overall condition of the engine, carb, and ignition system. If the compression is down, or there are other problems, adjusting the carb will be difficult and give minimal results.

thanks for the info..I will adjust and report back