Clutch

kaesark · Dec 3, 2016

Hi I have just pulled the motor from my Tea20 ready to go to re conditioners, so looking at the clutch lining and wondering should i replace while tractor in half but have no idea if its ready to be replaced or will see me out, how much meat should there be on a lining above rivet head. In the pictures I have seen the linings all had grooves but mine does not.
Any advice.,Thanks

Tony in Mass. · Dec 3, 2016

No mater what this one looks like, replace it now. This is a big job getting in there you don't want to repeat for a few more decades. IF it is still good, keep the clutch plate that's on there now as a spare, in case you or a fregie mate ever need one in a pinch.

Bruce(OR) · Dec 3, 2016

Putting in a new engine on an old clutch means that with the new engine and more power there will be more
strain on a new clutch. So If you don't replace it, you can take it back apart within the next 75 hours of
getting it back together.
New valve job on old rings means that tighter valve sealing put's more pressure on the piston
rings. So, yes. It will run good for awhile then the rings having more pressure on them deteriorate faster.
As for your clutch, New clutch no longer has asbestos and even copper is getting removed from the
material. It has a greater amount of steel. Steel mixed with moisture and another steel plate pressing on it
means that your new clutch has a far greater chance to rust into place. Your new clutch will require you to
block it open when not using it. A "C" Clamp can also work just to keep the clutch pedal in the down position.
Wanna go one better? Kevlar clutch. It does not rust and will cost you more money to get it rebuilt. I got mine
done by the local friction re-liner in town.

kaesark · Dec 3, 2016

OK so will replace thrust bearing and thinking I may as well replace flywheel bearing to.

Bruce(OR) · Dec 4, 2016

The flywheel gets machined for about $30. Use a pair of side cutters / dykes to remove the alignment roll pins if you can. That might save you a few bucks at the machine shop. A slight coating of Moly B grease on the trans input shaft that the thrust bearing rides on will also help you long term. On the back of the crankshaft is an input shaft bushing or bearing. I believe you have a bushing. Find a round object that fits that hole fairly snugly. Now fill the back of the crankshaft with short fiber wheel bearing grease. That thick junk will push out the bushing as you hammer in the round object. I used a socket and extension when I did the last one as I remember. Place the socket on backwards to give yourself a flat surface to drive into the hole.

John Deere D · Dec 4, 2016

I would,and I have been in a similar position as you are. I replaced the Clutch /Friction Disc, PILOT Bearing and Throw-out bearing. I had no desire to remove the engine in the near future.

I also marked the forward side of several of the RING GEAR TEETH with white METAL MARKER (teeth that are visible through STARTER Mounting BOSS) when # 1 Cylinder is on Compression stroke and 1/4" Diam. Dogging tool is inserted through HOLE in BLOCK below STARTER and into forward face of Fly wheel. Now you can remove the STARTER (Tow Tractor to Start)and view RING GEAR TEETH with a Strobe Light to check both the ADVANCE and timing of the Distributor...360 deg/145 Teeth = 2.45 deg/Tooth.

10 Teeth advance=25 deg @ 2600to 2680 RPM

Clutch

kaesark

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Tony in Mass.

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Bruce(OR)

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kaesark

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Bruce(OR)

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John Deere D

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