TEA20 rebuild advice.

Ha guys.

The motor is total stripped...

I have measured everything and check against the specs best i know how.

Main question. The pistons at the top measure 83.85 to 83.96 mm. Specs call for 84.905 to 84.933 with no worn allowances in my maunal.

Sleeves are roughly 85.1 specs call for 84.988 to 85.016..

I measured this with vineer calipier so igs might be slightly off.

some of the sleees have a ridge at the top.

Want to know if i can re hone linears and fit new rings and have an acceptable engine. I feel i would like to keep the old pistons etc, seeing the quality of stuff that bareco etc supplier.

So is this doable or should the sleeves pistons be replaced.

I ask as some of you know i rebuild an inframe ted20. I replaced all rings in that engine and had to replace one linear. How ever doing a compression test i get 70 to 75 psi across all cylinders. So that suggested you either do the hole engine kit rebuild or rehone linears replace rings and have a 75 % engine??

Here are some pics...

No 3 journal needs fixing as is under size compared to the others.

"The pistons at the top measure 83.85 to 83.96 mm. Specs call for 84.905 to 84.933 with no worn allowances in my maunal."

Where are you measuring the pistons? The measurement is on the skirt, down below the rings, measured 90* to the wrist pin.

What is more important is the piston to bore clearance. There should be a spec for that in the manual. Measure the bore, measure the piston skirt, subtract to get the clearance. Be sure to measure each cylinder with it's corresponding piston. Also the ring grooves need to be checked. If they are worn, the rings won't seal properly, which will mean new pistons and sleeves.

But, you need micrometers and at least telescoping gauges, better yet dial bore gauges to check the bore and pistons. Calipers won't work in a cylinder with a ridge.

What will the tractor be used for? If it is a working tractor, the cylinders need to be in spec or replace them. If it's working days are over, and the wear is not extreme, a good honing, some soft cast iron rings, and it will be good for many years. I think those are wet sleeves, if so, even if you are going to reuse them, I would pull them and replace the orings at the bottom.

The crank is another story. It needs to be right or the rebuild will soon fail.

My suggestion would be to strip everything down, take it to a reputable machine shop, let them work the valves, measure everything, give you a quote, decide what you want to do.

Ha steve thanks for that advice.

I measured the pistons at the top of the piston, I also measured the bottom of the piston, the bottom of the piston was closer to spec but cannot remember. i shall re measure the piston below the rings..

Tractor will be used by me for work but not working hard everyday..

Never been to an engine revuilder before but good idea to het them to check it out and get a quote...

yeah measuring the sleeves is a problem as i dont have the right tool, aint that always true being a backyarder...

Sleeves are flush or below the block so think i will remove sleeves and replace orings, after i recheck my figs. but that says that the head gasket can take up a far bit of slack as the head gasket was still good and not leaking.

Tell ya mate, steve's too right on all counts... but I know you are pretty far from any machine shop.
Ya know, the rings do the real work against a cylinder, so the piston itself just needs to be within tolerance- but- aren't whole kits cheaper in the long run than individual pieces? Like here in civilization?? A set of sleeves should/can come with new pistons and rings... so Bob's yer uncle!
Got to think back- did I just hone the sleeves and install new rings? It was different than a Continental kit. That got dry sleeves? Forgot. As long as the wrist pins are good, might go with just rings.... bearings MUST be right tho.
If the others clean up like #2 is, you are in good shape with those. The main bearing looks stained, that needs to be properly miked and seen to more than the pistons. Yep, with proper measuring instruments, you might find yourself in decent shape, but don't bugger it up on a guess here. Get a price quote on a kit with/ without bearings, but don't order anything till you proper mike everything... you 'might' not need anything but gaskets.... Best of British Mate!!!

Ok pukked the sleeves. I have checked the clearance at the bottom of the piston and sleeve as i can measure the liners.

The clearance is about .45 mm where spec calls for .43 to .48 mm (assume this is the top clearance)? so these figs are a btt outside the recommended. i measured one ring gap when closed, this 5.31 mm which is way outside the .25 spec.

So can i get away with honing and new rings?

Does honing remove much metal?

Kits here are $600, i have priced everything i need and its cheap to buy what i need, if i dont need liners and pistons.... But i am toss a full rebuild kit, but as normal plus the other bits needed the price keeps going up not down

Well, if you got the grosh to spare, it ain't much over the 3 or 4 it would take to buy just what's 'really' bad right now.... then dive back into it in a few years?... and spend the money then.
Yeah, if the gaps are too big to close up with heat... It will loose comp and burn oil... a kit with sleeves and rings to match will put you mind to ease in less than a couple hours.
It is already apart, no better time than present! The hours you will spend honing, and 'mucking about' have a value too.
That one undersized rod bearing... is it worn and wobbly? or did a shop turn it? - the one- and replace with bearing caps to fit? That would confuse the situation when a kit needs bearing sized before ordering the lot. Nay bloody worries mate, she'll be right. Now go rob the piggy bank...

The bad looking journal is where the knock was coming from. It was loose as when i pulled the sump, when i undid the cap the bearing just feel out. ITs under size by 0.1 mm compared to the others which are all ok. so deciding on what to do with the crank. Think it needs to be machined or otherwise i will have 1 bearing that is a differnece size, that doesn't fuss me but might upset the crank,,, I just dont know..

I spoke to a rebuilder and he quoted me $350 for a crank grind, rods and mains journals,,, thats when i almost fell of me chair :lol:

Yee... the crank needs... something... best to grind it and have matching bearings.... if the one is egg shaped... even a $100 single undersized pair of caps wouldn't help...
tell ya... even in the land of hot dogs and apple pie.. 350 US isn't out of line.. 150 for bearings, that's $11 or 12 a half eh? 200 for machining...setting up 7 times? a couple 3 hours of his time? for a job that will/could last a lifetime??
? so in Oz?... you in the hi dollar wop wops?... don't sound that bad at all... well, ya could get rogered a lot worst!!