Charles In Aust

pcp20us · Oct 23, 2016

Ha charles and everyone else!

Here a a post i did about repairing the mudguards and a photo of your repair.
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1224070&highlight=repair+fenders

I need to do the gaards on my new toy as they are rusted. So going to cut and weld in new metal

What thickness was the metal you used? why stainless rods?

I have an arc welder, from my experience this is to thin a material to arc weld? for at me atleast. I could buy tig attachment or would mig glassless be easier, as might be able to borrow on of them

Charles in Aus. · Oct 23, 2016

Best way to do it as fibre glass will only work loose over time .
Fine stainless steel rods weld at a lower temperature than most so blow through is reduced . Use a thick bit of copper sheet clamped hard to the back to soak up extra heat and give some backing to the weld . Only weld a few mm at a time , ten at the most , then move to an area away from the heat and start there moving back and forth along the area to be welded until it's done . The patch steel I used was only a half a mm thicker than the original unrusted guard material .
To finish off a flap wheel in a 4,1/2'' angle grinder will give a really smooth surface and blend both edges into each other .

I then went one further and had everything galvanised , the zinc coating let me solder directly to the surface and fill in any small imperfections that were left . It is much better if you take the frames off before you start , there is often a lot of corrosion hiding behind them .

pcp20us · Oct 23, 2016

Ive never done this but watch youtubers, so i must be an expert now

When fitting the new sheet metal, what is easiest, to make it a clean fit then weld or to overlap it by 10 mm depressing the edges so there is no ridge and do a lap joint, i guess this would be easier to weld.

Small rods i am thinking 1.6mm?

Cheers

Tony in Mass. · Oct 23, 2016

He's an idea. Possibly impossible, but that's oz for ya...
Adult/night classes at a technical school, college, ag program-with a me at the end- and absorb some welding do's and don'ts.
Then you'll see what you need around the place, and what you don't- like plasma, mig, tig?
See what's not 'economical' to own- like where you live- cylinder leases? Got to be a 'legal' way around that...
but... my son... you must remember.... man does not live by bondo alone...

Tony in Mass. · Oct 23, 2016

This is a different thread than with the nice fenders?
Anyway, yeee, smallest rods. Overlap is safer. Bondo evens things out later.. your first puddle of cow $4!t and no one will notice....
A copper plate- copper anything under it for a heat sink and support. Patience, arc welding sheet metal is no easy feet... or fingers... torch... keep thinking 'torch'......

Charles in Aus. · Oct 24, 2016

1.6 mm rods will be fine .
I butt joined the infill plates , the edges will burn a little more easily but overlap joints are difficult to hide . Don't be fooled into thinking that the backside of the joint won't be seen . It is very visible between the tyre and will annoy the tripe out of you when you see it . No need for too much skill , or overthinking , be neat , go slow , do like your dad said [ or should have said ] and take your time .
Look up lead wiping on you tube , this is a great skill and hides a multitude of sins , might even seal the odd leak in a petrol tank :wink:

pcp20us · Oct 24, 2016

Bloody hell, i just cut a new piece today with a lap joint, but i hear you re seeing the back as its bloody visible, might reshap tomorrow

Also yes lead wiping for tank, bloody good idea, see tony you dont need torches

Charles In Aust

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Charles in Aus.

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Tony in Mass.

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Charles in Aus.

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