Small question about my TO30

I was mowing with my TO30 this morning. Thick somewhat wet grass. I was reminded once again how nicely it runs when working fairly hard. The governor works good holding it right near 1500rpm whether I'm in the thickest grass or in the lane while turning around. And it has lots of power.

So, while working it seems to run like a charm. But I cannot get it to "purr" like the proverbial kitten at idle. Sometimes it will idle at about 450, others about 600. It will miss and pop occasionally. Not terribly, but not right. It's better when fully hot, but still not right. But work it hard at operating RPM and it runs like a champ.

I'm not a brilliant mechanic, but I've done some basic things over the years as part of general maintenance but also hoping to help it idle beautifully. Spark plugs, wires, electronic ignition, a carb rebuild kit, adjusting the carb screws, and probably other things I'm forgetting.

So, for those of you with more knowledge. When I do the winter maintenance on it, what should I look at?

Obviously it's not a terrible big issue since it runs well when working, which is the whole purpose of a tractor. But when I hear other tractors purr perfectly at idle I wish mine would.

Thanks.
 
Jeremy
I have a TO-30 and it does the same
It will set there and purr nice and then pop pop
and then its ok for maybe 10 sec and then pop
but she runs so good when I mow or use plows
it sounds like a burnt valve but the compression test shows good.
so if poping makes her happy I just leave her pop.
 
(quoted from post at 15:23:25 10/05/16) I was mowing with my TO30 this morning. Thick somewhat wet grass. I was reminded once again how nicely it runs when working fairly hard. The governor works good holding it right near 1500rpm whether I'm in the thickest grass or in the lane while turning around. And it has lots of power.

So, while working it seems to run like a charm. But I cannot get it to "purr" like the proverbial kitten at idle. Sometimes it will idle at about 450, others about 600. It will miss and pop occasionally. Not terribly, but not right. It's better when fully hot, but still not right. But work it hard at operating RPM and it runs like a champ.

I'm not a brilliant mechanic, but I've done some basic things over the years as part of general maintenance but also hoping to help it idle beautifully. Spark plugs, wires, electronic ignition, a carb rebuild kit, adjusting the carb screws, and probably other things I'm forgetting.

So, for those of you with more knowledge. When I do the winter maintenance on it, what should I look at?

Obviously it's not a terrible big issue since it runs well when working, which is the whole purpose of a tractor. But when I hear other tractors purr perfectly at idle I wish mine would.

Thanks.

I've seen them do that and had just been overhauled. As long as it runs good under a load then you don't have a problem.
 
every old ferguson I have ever had does that. I think it is either dist. or valve but what the heck as long as it runs semi well who cares???
how does it feel and what kinda noise does it make when you cover the exhaust pipe with your hand or a piece of cardboard?
 
A few things to check...

When it is idling, dash lever set all the way to idle, see if the throttle arm on the carb is fully against the idle stop screw. If it's floating off the screw, it won't have consistent idle speed. If necessary take the linkage loose and extend it a turn at a time until the screw contacts. While you're there, check the throttle plate shaft for wear. If it's sloppy, it will have a vacuum leak and not consistently idle.

I assume you have discovered turning the idle mixture screw in makes it richer. Just backward of most carbs. The screw actually controls air bleed instead of fuel.

Have you checked the distributor? They have 2 very common problems, wear in the shaft bushing causes the points gap to vary at different RPM. There should be very little side play in the shaft. The centrifugal advance will also rust in place or get sticky and respond too slowly. Try to gently turn the rotor counterclockwise. It should turn a few degrees and spring snap back when released. If it won't turn, or is slow to return, the distributor will need to come out and be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated.

Have you set the lifters? Could have a tight valve. If they are noisy or just haven't been set in a while, it is a good preventive practice.
 
Thanks to everyone.

I'll check a few of Steve's suggestions when I do the winter service work. But it sounds like what I have is fairly common and I'll probably just let it as is.

It runs well when it's doing its work.

Thanks.
 

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