TO30 - Replacing leaky rear axle oil seals-any suggestions?

My TO30 has leaky rear axle oil seals that need to be replaced. I've read the Ferguson shop manual. I have the Ferguson Parts manual on order. I still feel like I'm going to run into things I'm not expecting (which I know is part of every job, but I'd like to minimize the surprises if possible )
Are there any procedures out there that have more detail than the shop manual?
I have some of John(UK)'s manuals on other TO30 stuff, but not on replacing the oil seals. Anyone have a manual John(UK) wrote on replacing oil seals?
Thanks for the great forum and for all the help over the years !!!

Are you replacing the inner seals or both inner and outer? If just the inner seals it is very easy. Jacking up one side with the wheel off you can
remove the brake actuator rod from the linkage that is behind the step and then remove the nuts on the inside of axle trumpet. Axle and brakes
come out as one and you can change seal. If brakes are going to be done then follow manual and remove brake drum, brakes then backing
nuts and pull axle out to replace seal.

If doing inner and outer you will have to have shrink on collar removed and replaced.

I suggest getting the service manual from here.

hi bill.

I did the rear outer seals on a tea20. This maybe different to a t030.

But on the te20 you can use sure seals to seal the outer bearing to stop oil leaking into the bearings. this saves removing the collar and replacing the bearing.

Below is something i have from research. But you need to check out the setup on a to30.

I would search sure seals to30 in the archives.

and make sure you have 2 gaskets on each axle. Hope this helps

anyway, here is the right i have.

Remedy rear axle seals

There should be a gasket at each side of the Brake Back Plate and the shims fit next to the axle housing and the Back Plate gasket. Check the oil level in the Rear axle by removing the bottom screw in the Round inspection covers and allow any oil that runs out to run until it stops, that is now the level you need. Mark the Dipstick with this new level as it may not be the correct dipstick. There are a few that look right but they are marked differently. If the oil is leaking into the actual Drum then the seal does need replacing, but you can use "Sure Seals" and that is an easier fix. You must make sure that the shims are fitted correctly and that you have the correct end-play when it is all re-assembled again. If there is no gasket on the inside of the Brake Drum, this could cause an oil leak into the drum if the oil level was incorrect even if the original seal was not leaking. When you remove the drum, just look at the end of the Hub where the seal is located and if the seal is leaking you will see oil coming out of the seal and running down the Hub and Back-plate. If it was just the gasket leaking, you would only get the oil leaking down the Back-plate below the Hub and also possibly down the outside (back) of the Back-plate too. Always check that the nuts holding the Hub are tight, do this often. You need to determine just where the leak is coming from and why to resolve it, but just follow what is written and you will see what I mean. If there is oil getting into the Drums and both sides have "Sure Seals" fitted then the oil is passing through the "Sure Seals" and you need to check the oil level first and if that is OK change the "Sure Seals". Do not use any gasket cement on the gaskets as they do move slightly and using cement will allow them to move more and wear away the cement and cause it to leak again. The gaskets are quite capable of stopping any leaks, it is the Hubs coming slack that causes leaks, this is especially true if the tractor has a loader as it is shunting a lot.
If you need the correct way to shim the axles or carry out the whole operation, email me at [email protected] or [email protected]

Not to hijack the thread. I need to do the same thing on my TO35. Where can find sure seals?

I believe the sure seals were meant for the TE and TO20's not for the 30's. The seal you need to replace is at position 6.
Like I said earlier you can pull the whole axle shaft assembly out as one unit. Did the same on my TO-35 that was leaking.

Thanks

I replaced #6 seal and it didn't stop leak on my TO35. I didn't want to replace the other seal and remove bearing and etc. I thought the outer seal would work but I'll have to replace both. I just park with wheel higher on leaking side.

DrLoch, the sure seals as I understand it were only for the TO 20 the TO 30 did not use them, I am not certain that the 35 will use them either. Hopefully some one with more knowledge will shout out shortly.

You must have damaged the new seal on fitting Miner.....no other oil can get out nless it passes that seal.....the outer seal next the wheel only keeps in grease and keeps dirt from getting in..

Thank you all for the replys. Lots to think about. It probably makes sense to do inner and outer seals at the same time and repack the bearings. I appreciate the cautions and the pictures. All very helpful. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I had good brakes until I replaced the 90W oil with 10W/30. It really was great having the lift work right away in cold whether.... but I sure do miss those brakes
It was only after I changed out the oil did I see a post on here that mentioned the lighter oil may cause problems with leaky seals. Yep, I can vouch for that
I also had the oil level up higher than the lower bolt as you guys have mentioned.
I'll probably go back to the 90W just as a precaution so I don't have to do this again
Thanks again everyone !