T0-20 lift cover and control valve fork removal

Gray-C

Member
In efforts to get at the hydraulic lift work cylinder I need to get cover under the seat off and in turn the control valve fork too.

Manual states one can use a piece of wood to spread the fork but working through inspection ports seems an impossibility. I rather not disturb the pan gasket if at all avoidable for obvious reasons but need to know if this is the only way to achieve the task. I tried tugging fingers off the seats with electric wire wrapped around the fingers and then leveraging with wood but still they did not want to give way, any advice is welcome please.

One would think there would be a little wiggle room with fork still attached to at least allow the lift cover to break free but I have beat it with a rubber mallet, used pry bars, crow bars and finally a 2x4 between the axel and lift arm while putting all of my 180 lbs on top for leverage and still no luck. I hesitate to use heat for fear of warping and too do not want to beat with a steal hammer for fear of cracking the cast. Any advice would be welcomed please and thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 22:09:54 09/10/16) In efforts to get at the hydraulic lift work cylinder I need to get cover under the seat off and in turn the control valve fork too.

Manual states one can use a piece of wood to spread the fork but working through inspection ports seems an impossibility. I rather not disturb the pan gasket if at all avoidable for obvious reasons but need to know if this is the only way to achieve the task. I tried tugging fingers off the seats with electric wire wrapped around the fingers and then leveraging with wood but still they did not want to give way, any advice is welcome please.

One would think there would be a little wiggle room with fork still attached to at least allow the lift cover to break free but I have beat it with a rubber mallet, used pry bars, crow bars and finally a 2x4 between the axel and lift arm while putting all of my 180 lbs on top for leverage and still no luck. I hesitate to use heat for fear of warping and too do not want to beat with a steal hammer for fear of cracking the cast. Any advice would be welcomed please and thanks.

I am considering jacking Gray-C up and proping a sturdy pole under the cover flange down to the floor and releasing the jack slowly to allow the weight of the tractor to force the seal apart. Before doing so does anyone know if there are centering dowels that would bind in doing so while creating a crack risk?
 
Stop what your doing now. Sounds like you are asking for trouble. I don't know how to help. Someone who can offer with help will be along
with some knowledge and suggestions.
 
Work thru right side inspection port, as manual says. Drain fluid first if you must, to make it easier. Follow manual.
 
(quoted from post at 14:09:54 09/10/16) In efforts to get at the hydraulic lift work cylinder I need to get cover under the seat off and in turn the control valve fork too.

Manual states one can use a piece of wood to spread the fork but working through inspection ports seems an impossibility. I rather not disturb the pan gasket if at all avoidable for obvious reasons but need to know if this is the only way to achieve the task. I tried tugging fingers off the seats with electric wire wrapped around the fingers and then leveraging with wood but still they did not want to give way, any advice is welcome please.

One would think there would be a little wiggle room with fork still attached to at least allow the lift cover to break free but I have beat it with a rubber mallet, used pry bars, crow bars and finally a 2x4 between the axel and lift arm while putting all of my 180 lbs on top for leverage and still no luck. I hesitate to use heat for fear of warping and too do not want to beat with a steal hammer for fear of cracking the cast. Any advice would be welcomed please and thanks.

If you move the lift cover with the control valve still in the fork you will be buying a control valve. Take a long screwdriver and reach up thru the drain hole in the pump and pry one leg out at a time and unhook the control valve.
 

Have to ask why you need to get to the lift cylinder ?
Control valve issues cause most lift problems and are much easier to remedy . The control valve forks are spread with a small piece of wood about an inch square and an inch or two wider than the forks themselves . If your hands are like a bunch of bananas then enlist a youth or capable female as a helper . Place the wood into the fork leg space at a diagonal then twist it to the horizontal position which will spread the fork legs effectively and easily .
The lower gasket is easy to replace , the pump will drop out with a little encouragement and can then be cleaned thoroughly .
Taking off the top cover [ which you may not really need to do ] without removing the pump and cleaning is probably asking to repeat the job at some later stage .
 

Forgot to add , on some models there is a bridge piece between the forks that needs to be unbolted first . It resembles an arch and is made of alloy .
 
If you move the lift cover with the control valve still in the fork you will be buying a control valve. Take a long screwdriver and reach up thru the drain hole in the pump and pry one leg out at a time and unhook the control valve.[/quote]

Great advise Jason, worked good thanks, hoping replacing is as smooth! I had siphoned the oil out of the side port to keep things clean and the plug hole did not occure to me, however, with the trouble light in the side ports while looking in from below was slicker than....
 
(quoted from post at 18:21:14 09/11/16)
Have to ask why you need to get to the lift cylinder ?
Control valve issues cause most lift problems and are much easier to remedy . The control valve forks are spread with a small piece of wood about an inch square and an inch or two wider than the forks themselves . If your hands are like a bunch of bananas then enlist a youth or capable female as a helper . Place the wood into the fork leg space at a diagonal then twist it to the horizontal position which will spread the fork legs effectively and easily .
The lower gasket is easy to replace , the pump will drop out with a little encouragement and can then be cleaned thoroughly .
Taking off the top cover [ which you may not really need to do ] without removing the pump and cleaning is probably asking to repeat the job at some later stage .

In a previous thread of postings the control valve was ruled out as was the relief valve, after attaching an implement with a few cinderblocks for added weight to create ample back pressure, the oil fall was clearly coming from the upper corner where the tube brings oil up. Given the tube is pressed into place on in the upper and lower areas; the logical source of leakage would have to be the cylinder as per that advisor.
 

In summary,,,

The cover remained stead fast but knowing the fork to be free and clear was a relief. There was no confirmation given with regards to centering dowel pins to which I can now confirm for other readers there are none.

Speaking to separating the cover from the casing, I was able to put a floor jack roughly under the axel with a two foot 2x4 wedged under the flange area of the cover. The tractor lifted off the floor an inch before it suddenly let go with a sigh of relief. Thought it was cast aluminum at first because this baby is gray, I learned she be iron when losing a nut upon lifting it lol.

Moving back to other thread now to focus on "Hydraulic Lift Failure"

Thanks for every bit of input people!!!
 

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