In checking things before putting the TO20 back in service following lower engine overhaul, I found the steering box to be empty. It seems apparent, from the amount of extra movement of the control arms, that the bushings and seals are well worn, so I filled it just to the level of the bottom of the seals with 80W gear oil. As the summer temperatures increased and the oil level rose, it leaked out and ran down the sides of the bell housing and dripped on the floor. Thinking it would stabilize at a certain point, I wiped it off the tractor and soaked it off the floor until it subsided, during which time I drove it around several times just for the sake of exercise - then it sat idle for several weeks. I was taken completely by surprise when I started it last week and couldn't get it in gear thanks to the stuck clutch. I pulled the inspection plate from the bottom of the bell housing and could see evidence of oil on the front of the flywheel, so I assume it's also on the clutch plate. What little is dripping from the bell housing at the drain holes looks like the aforementioned gear oil. It would seem unlikely that oil from the rear engine seal (new) or the front transmission seal (no visible leak) is the culprit, but will require splitting the tractor to confirm. Is it possible that gear oil from the steering box has somehow migrated to the flywheel and contaminated the clutch? If so, in lieu of rebuilding the steering box, it sure would have been prudent to fill it with cornhead grease as has been recommended by several contributors to the forum. And how is it that oil on the clutch causes it to stick so firmly instead of just slip?
 
The steer box is a separate entity. Corn head grease works well when mixed with 90W in a zip lock
bag, cut corner and squeeze in. Top steering bearing needs a grease zerk added to the top collar
1/4-20 is the common size for the tap, and be sure to replace the felt seal to aid in retaining
grease. As for the stuck clutch, chances are excellent you installed a semi-metallic clutch disc,
or the PO did. A Kevlar made clutch will not stick. Ever. Your semi-metallic clutch is simply
rusted in position against the flywheel. You get to split the machine to fix the oil leak, or not.
Me? If it is not leaking like a sieve, I would unstick the clutch and learn to hold the pedal down
when not in use either with a well placed 'C' clamp or a length of 2X4. A minor bit of oil on a
clutch will make it work better. Trouble is, no one knows exactly how much is a little bit. Brakes
shoes have the same problem.
Unsticking the clutch you say? I did the neighbors Deere with a starter button and well working
tractor brakes. Place into gear, I think I did his in third or fourth. Start engine and stomp the
brakes once at speed. Just be sure to also have your foot on the clutch pedal also while stomping
the brakes trying to free the clutch.
Best of wishes, "drippy" I call the wife's tractor, "F'ractor". All the "F'oney" that has been
spent on it. And I ain't done yet.
 
When I took my steering box off, there was was quite a bit of nasty dried up gunk that may have been grease at one point in time. The bottom cover actually had a couple of small pitted / corroded holes that I assume drained any liquid portion of anything that was put into the box and drained down to the tranny. Took care of the hole with some metal mender epoxy. Fashioned my own gasket and plenty of RTV gasket maker. Holding so far.
 
Was unsuccessful freeing the clutch by driving with both clutch (adjusted to no play in pedal) and brake pedals depressed, so today did the split. No fluid leak of any consequence was found, so the steering box conspiracy is out the window. The clutch plate came away from the flywheel with removal of the pressure plate, however was stuck to the pp. It pried loose without a lot of effort, rust apparent on both flywheel and pressure plate, as seen in the attached pix. If that small amount of rust was holding up the works, I'm amazed.

FTR, the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing were not replaced with new,but pilot bearing is new and spins freely; clutch plate has 1/8" lining remaining on each side and was in place correctly.

Mike V.
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