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Hydraulic Lift Failure

G

Gray-C

Member
Greetings, I am new to this realm of technology but remain confident that the old school produced a far superior product.

In the spring I purchased this 1951 Furguson T0-20 which has been awsome. It came with an origional Furguson bucket set up, 2 furrow plough and home made blade.

When first I engaged the pto / lift in the spring I was sure the lift was working, mind you I was not confident of the proceedure in so far as the clutch needing to be out to activate the gear, however, I believe it was sticking from inactivity given the Tractor was purchased new by the previouse owner and almost solely used to draw trailers of product on a tobaco farm.

I have used her well over the summer with the bucket and other implements without incident. Last week I had used the plough to loose compacted earth and then attached the blade to grade. After a few passes with the blade she would not lift normally, I am able to get it up by reving really high but the arm will not remail raised. Does this sound like a sticky valve???

I do have the maunuals but there is no specifics with this type of charateristic. It is my intention to restore her for show in the near future and felt I should get the bennifit of familiarization via the voice of experience prior to pulling wrenches. Thanks.
 
On each side of the transmission case, below the seat, there are round inspection covers. Remove the covers. You may loose a little oil, but no need to drain it. Start it up, move the lever to lift position.

Get a flashlight and look inside, but don't put your hands in there!!!

Looking up and back, you will find the bottom of the lift cylinder. Look for oil leaking from the rear of the cylinder. If there is oil pouring out, the cylinder seals are bad. A little oil is normal, just not a lot.

There is also a tube coming up from the pump, in front of the right cover. If oil is running down the tube from above, or boiling up from below, the o rings are bad.

If all that checks good, the problem is likely in the control valve, relief valve or the pump.

Let us know...
 
(quoted from post at 13:18:36 08/30/16) On each side of the transmission case, below the seat, there are round inspection covers. Remove the covers. You may loose a little oil, but no need to drain it. Start it up, move the lever to lift position.

Get a flashlight and look inside, but don't put your hands in there!!!

Looking up and back, you will find the bottom of the lift cylinder. Look for oil leaking from the rear of the cylinder. If there is oil pouring out, the cylinder seals are bad. A little oil is normal, just not a lot.

There is also a tube coming up from the pump, in front of the right cover. If oil is running down the tube from above, or boiling up from below, the o rings are bad.

If all that checks good, the problem is likely in the control valve, relief valve or the pump.

Let us know...
Click to expand...

Wow that was quick Steve, thanks.

Not sure when I will find the time to do that with the many projects to wrap up before season's end, but it is on the list of priorities.

I was hoping that once some one heard specifically that (apart from requiring high rpm's to lift) the arm does not stay fast once lifted, it would be a tell tale sign of one thing or another not sealing.

As an muscle car guy in days gone by, we had fixes like flushing things with tranny fluid which has detergents to remove buildups / deposits and such. What you have outlined seems to indicate that the rest of the system will not operate given problems where you discribe.

As a matter of education, should I be looking at the area you outline, is it simple enough to change out the cylinder seals and or O-rings without major teardown. In other words do I slap the inspection plates back on and order the seals / O-ings or do I prepare to get down and dirty to change them? Thanks
 
If it's the o rings on the stand pipe, those are easy. Just pull the small cover off the top, lift out the tube, replace the o rings (at least I think the 20's are made that way).

If it's the cylinder seals, that's a fairly major job. The whole top cover (under the seat) has to come off. Can't really order parts until you get it apart and see what is needed. Sometimes the cylinder is scored and will need to be replaced.

Hopefully someone will follow up with how to check the control valve on the 20. I've got a TO35, that part is completely different from mine.
 
(quoted from post at 02:04:59 08/31/16) If it's the o rings on the stand pipe, those are easy. Just pull the small cover off the top, lift out the tube, replace the o rings (at least I think the 20's are made that way).

If it's the cylinder seals, that's a fairly major job. The whole top cover (under the seat) has to come off. Can't really order parts until you get it apart and see what is needed. Sometimes the cylinder is scored and will need to be replaced.

Hopefully someone will follow up with how to check the control valve on the 20. I've got a TO35, that part is completely different from mine.
Click to expand...

The TO-20 doesn't have a removable standpipe like later models do. The tube is in the right hand corner of the case and it's pressed in. There are no orings in the lift cylinder or hydraulic pump on a TO-20. They use gaskets. As was mentioned earlier remove the covers and look for a stream of oil while trying to get the lift to pick something up. If you do not see a stream of oil then the easiest way to check the control valve if you aren't familiar with them is to drain the hydraulic oil completely out and you will see the control valve at the bottom of the pump and where it attaches to the control fork. It could be the valve it sticking, the valve has come out of the control fork, or the valve is broken. Time to investigate and let us know what you find and we will help from there.
 
If it"s the relief valve that"s stuck open, there will be a lot of turbulence at the bottom of the pump. Another possibility is an end plate gaskets is leaking so there will be oil squirting out from the pump end plates.
 
(quoted from post at 19:01:22 08/30/16)
(quoted from post at 02:04:59 08/31/16) If it's the o rings on the stand pipe, those are easy. Just pull the small cover off the top, lift out the tube, replace the o rings (at least I think the 20's are made that way).

If it's the cylinder seals, that's a fairly major job. The whole top cover (under the seat) has to come off. Can't really order parts until you get it apart and see what is needed. Sometimes the cylinder is scored and will need to be replaced.

Hopefully someone will follow up with how to check the control valve on the 20. I've got a TO35, that part is completely different from mine.
Click to expand...

The TO-20 doesn't have a removable standpipe like later models do. The tube is in the right hand corner of the case and it's pressed in. There are no orings in the lift cylinder or hydraulic pump on a TO-20. They use gaskets. As was mentioned earlier remove the covers and look for a stream of oil while trying to get the lift to pick something up. If you do not see a stream of oil then the easiest way to check the control valve if you aren't familiar with them is to drain the hydraulic oil completely out and you will see the control valve at the bottom of the pump and where it attaches to the control fork. It could be the valve it sticking, the valve has come out of the control fork, or the valve is broken. Time to investigate and let us know what you find and we will help from there.
Click to expand...

Well,, took the side covers off for a quick peek to no avail. I can confirm there is no tube visible, nor was there anything that looked to me like aggressive streaming / leakage. There was in fact a wavy appearance to the reservoir to the front of the fork, but nothing that looked severe. Due to daylight burning off I did not have the time to attach an implement to test, is this an absolute to put it under load?

Since my last post I started the ole doll up to observe and found while cold performed as it should, however, once warmed went back to her antic's although the given amount of RPM's required to bring it up were largely reduced yet the lift arm still would not stay fast in up / transport position.

Question I ask myself now is do I take the time to attach an implement or go directly to draining oil to visually inspect control valve??
 
Is this to say there should be no turbulance as a rule? Turbulance when only at certain times?
 

Jerry,,,

Is this to say there should be no turbulance as a rule? Turbulance when only at certain times?
 
(quoted from post at 13:48:00 09/01/16) If it"s the relief valve that"s stuck open, there will be a lot of turbulence at the bottom of the pump. Another possibility is an end plate gaskets is leaking so there will be oil squirting out from the pump end plates.
Click to expand...
Ok I see once must "quote" to resond to a particular post.

Is this to say there should be no turbulance as a rule? Turbulance when only at certain times?
 
So, I have been studying the shop manual which suggests that once having ruled out the pickup tube there should be no turbulence in the reservoir. I gather the wave in the pool is indicating control valve or relief valve.

Having never been inside one of these animals it is difficult to orient by the diagrams provided, yet my best guess is these two valves are found to the rear of the assembly and so not accessible from the side inspection plates, therefore one must drain the oil then drop the pan holding the pump in order to access them?

That said I am not seeing any denotation of the amount of oil in this casing; does anyone have an idea what kind of volume I should have as a catch basin?

Upon contemplation, this beast was used only for towing trailers and therefore the design potential for the implement system was never really taxed since 1951. I am thinking that the relief valve is the safeguard designed to trigger a release when coming up against large back pressure so as to protect the equipment? If anyone can confirm this then I can in theory project that when grading about a graduated foot and half deep, this engaged and, being the valve has probably never been triggered before has deposits which are preventing it from fully closing back to the operating position?
 
I had a TEA that lost the lift.

Turned out that the head came off the bolt that held the head on one side of the pump.

You can see this via the side plate holes. Retrieving the bits meant dropping the pump.

IIRC there is about 6 gallons of oil to drain.

To get the pump out you have to take the pto shaft out. And

Releasing the fork that runs the control valve is interesting, and a manual helps.

Getting it back is even more-so.

But all doable
 
The relief valve and the control valve are located on the aft side of the hydraulic pump, IF THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, you can reach down and feel them under the oil surface. The relief valve feels like a spark plug and the control valve is attached to the control fork with a "T" arrangement with the control valve stem going into the pump. The range of motion of the control valve(full aft to full forward)) is 1 inch. Move it back and forth to see if you get this range of motion. Some time a control valve will not have a full range of motion due to crap and corruption between the valve body and the valve bushing. The valve may also stick in position and not move so the lift won"t move to its commanded position.

If the engine is running and the pro shaft is connected than the pump is running. If the relief valve is leaking there will be a "jet" of oil coming out of it will cause turbulence at the aft of the pump below the surface of the oil. You might also hear some noise. Look at the "corners" of the pump. There are gaskets that seal this area and they can blow. and allow fluid to squirt out. At the right front corner is the tube that Steve mentioned. This tube conducts the fluid from the pump to the hydraulic lift cylinder so it is pressurized. If fluid is running down the tube, there is a leak in the tube seal. Finally the cylinder seals can be leaking in which case you"ll see fluid running out of the cylinder. Anything more that a few drops is a leak.
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:49 09/05/16) The relief valve and the control valve are located on the aft side of the hydraulic pump, IF THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, you can reach down and feel them under the oil surface. The relief valve feels like a spark plug and the control valve is attached to the control fork with a "T" arrangement with the control valve stem going into the pump. The range of motion of the control valve(full aft to full forward)) is 1 inch. Move it back and forth to see if you get this range of motion. Some time a control valve will not have a full range of motion due to crap and corruption between the valve body and the valve bushing. The valve may also stick in position and not move so the lift won"t move to its commanded position.

If the engine is running and the pro shaft is connected than the pump is running. If the relief valve is leaking there will be a "jet" of oil coming out of it will cause turbulence at the aft of the pump below the surface of the oil. You might also hear some noise. Look at the "corners" of the pump. There are gaskets that seal this area and they can blow. and allow fluid to squirt out. At the right front corner is the tube that Steve mentioned. This tube conducts the fluid from the pump to the hydraulic lift cylinder so it is pressurized. If fluid is running down the tube, there is a leak in the tube seal. Finally the cylinder seals can be leaking in which case you"ll see fluid running out of the cylinder. Anything more that a few drops is a leak.
Click to expand...

So, can I spruce either of these to valves up in the even or must I re; and re; them? Is it likely I can coax them into moving again by tickling without removing or would it be best best to remove???
 
Thank you all for your insights. Sorry if I appear a tad doffed at times but please comprehend I am juggling many hats, the most important being that of a stay at home dad which can be a distraction unlike any other I have ever experienced lol.

I have reviewed all the posts and noted the points I inadvertently omitted from memory between sporadic attentions to this item. Too, I have attached the implement load and intend on adding a few ten inch cinder blocks to bring that up. I do not have a pressure gage to put inline on the external hydraulic port so will have to wing it regarding PSI therein.

In addition I have cleared up the chaos in the garage from the summer to a degree to allow a place to get into it properly without concern for natures elements and I hope the oil pan gasket (made one out of Bristol Board improvising after tearing the drain plug out on a bolder) arrives while in this mode too.
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:49 09/05/16) The relief valve and the control valve are located on the aft side of the hydraulic pump, IF THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, you can reach down and feel them under the oil surface. The relief valve feels like a spark plug and the control valve is attached to the control fork with a "T" arrangement with the control valve stem going into the pump. The range of motion of the control valve(full aft to full forward)) is 1 inch. Move it back and forth to see if you get this range of motion. Some time a control valve will not have a full range of motion due to crap and corruption between the valve body and the valve bushing. The valve may also stick in position and not move so the lift won"t move to its commanded position.

If the engine is running and the pro shaft is connected than the pump is running. If the relief valve is leaking there will be a "jet" of oil coming out of it will cause turbulence at the aft of the pump below the surface of the oil. You might also hear some noise. Look at the "corners" of the pump. There are gaskets that seal this area and they can blow. and allow fluid to squirt out. At the right front corner is the tube that Steve mentioned. This tube conducts the fluid from the pump to the hydraulic lift cylinder so it is pressurized. If fluid is running down the tube, there is a leak in the tube seal. Finally the cylinder seals can be leaking in which case you"ll see fluid running out of the cylinder. Anything more that a few drops is a leak.
Click to expand...

Boy was I disoriented untill getting my hand in there... Holy tight in there, my fingers are of the short and stubby type and the longest reach I can achieve toward the control valve is, to where the T connects at the fork and what feels like a flanged connection in the middle of the cross member with fingers clutched behind the assembly. I can feel the cross member of the T traveling with the fork, however, not entirly sure the shaft part of the T is traveling. Please, what are the odds of the T disconnecting at the center of the T's cross member as I do not have the knowlage of how this part was assembled? To reiterate, do I need to figure on actually determining the shaft is moving or is it sufficient in knowing the cross member travels with the fork?? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:49 09/05/16) The relief valve and the control valve are located on the aft side of the hydraulic pump, IF THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, you can reach down and feel them under the oil surface. The relief valve feels like a spark plug and the control valve is attached to the control fork with a "T" arrangement with the control valve stem going into the pump. The range of motion of the control valve(full aft to full forward)) is 1 inch. Move it back and forth to see if you get this range of motion. Some time a control valve will not have a full range of motion due to crap and corruption between the valve body and the valve bushing. The valve may also stick in position and not move so the lift won"t move to its commanded position.

If the engine is running and the pro shaft is connected than the pump is running. If the relief valve is leaking there will be a "jet" of oil coming out of it will cause turbulence at the aft of the pump below the surface of the oil. You might also hear some noise. Look at the "corners" of the pump. There are gaskets that seal this area and they can blow. and allow fluid to squirt out. At the right front corner is the tube that Steve mentioned. This tube conducts the fluid from the pump to the hydraulic lift cylinder so it is pressurized. If fluid is running down the tube, there is a leak in the tube seal. Finally the cylinder seals can be leaking in which case you"ll see fluid running out of the cylinder. Anything more that a few drops is a leak.
Click to expand...

So, drained a few gallons out to enable a better look and discovered with the use of a telescoping mirror, that the T attached to the forker has the cross member running through the ram / valve shaft making it impossible to separate, good design unlike today’s crap. There is very little sediment in there which surprises me. Did not see a jet coming off the relief valve and, discovered that the wave I was seeing was being created from the cam assembly motion which was not visible slightly beneath the fluid.

Again using the mirror I was able to locate and trace the path of the tube which I believe it not spouting in and of itself. There is fluid fall however, and I suspect it must be the "work cylinder" or something associated with the same. One must be mindful that just prior to failure, the drop valve for the bucket was inline via the external port locate to the fore right side of the lift cover, where by pressures may well have been created which this ole doll will have never experienced before. The flow seems to be originating right where the retracting spring for the fork is hooked on to, what appears to me as the cylinder housing if this sounds proper.

What now??? Seems to me it must be time to remove the cover from the top of the casing which does not seem like to big of a deal except for reaching the retaining pin on the lift ram arm as per the manual. How the heck are you guys getting your arms in that cavity, removing the rear wheels and fenders to finagle the required angle?

Any educated guesses to what could be happening to cause the fluid fall, presuming it does not constitute normal lubrication design? I am afraid the "work cylinder" integrity is compromised which cannot be a good thing.
 
(quoted from post at 05:18:36 08/31/16) On each side of the transmission case, below the seat, there are round inspection covers. Remove the covers. You may loose a little oil, but no need to drain it. Start it up, move the lever to lift position.

Get a flashlight and look inside, but don't put your hands in there!!!

Looking up and back, you will find the bottom of the lift cylinder. Look for oil leaking from the rear of the cylinder. If there is oil pouring out, the cylinder seals are bad. A little oil is normal, just not a lot.

There is also a tube coming up from the pump, in front of the right cover. If oil is running down the tube from above, or boiling up from below, the o rings are bad.

If all that checks good, the problem is likely in the control valve, relief valve or the pump.

Let us know...
Click to expand...

So, drained a few gallons out to enable a better look and discovered with the use of a telescoping mirror, that the T attached to the forker has the cross member running through the ram / valve shaft making it impossible to separate, good design unlike today’s crap. There is very little sediment in there which surprises me. Did not see a jet coming off the relief valve and, discovered that the wave I was seeing was being created from the cam assembly motion which was not visible slightly beneath the fluid.

Again using the mirror I was able to locate and trace the path of the tube which I believe it not spouting in and of itself. There is fluid fall however, and I suspect it must be the "work cylinder" or something associated with the same. One must be mindful that just prior to failure, the drop valve for the bucket was inline via the external port located to the fore right side of the lift cover, where by pressures may well have been created which this ole doll will have never experienced before. The flow seems to be originating right where the retracting spring for the fork is hooked on to, what appears to me as the cylinder housing if this sounds proper.

What now??? Seems to me it must be time to remove the cover from the top of the casing which does not seem like to big of a deal except for reaching the retaining pin on the lift ram arm as per the manual. How the heck are you guys getting your arms in that cavity, removing the rear wheels and fenders to finagle the required angle?

Any educated guesses to what could be happening to cause the fluid fall, presuming it does not constitute normal lubrication design? I am afraid the "work cylinder" integrity is compromised which cannot be a good thing.

PS, looks like Steve has nailed it???
 
(quoted from post at 05:18:36 08/31/16) On each side of the transmission case, below the seat, there are round inspection covers. Remove the covers. You may loose a little oil, but no need to drain it. Start it up, move the lever to lift position.

Get a flashlight and look inside, but don't put your hands in there!!!

Looking up and back, you will find the bottom of the lift cylinder. Look for oil leaking from the rear of the cylinder. If there is oil pouring out, the cylinder seals are bad. A little oil is normal, just not a lot.

There is also a tube coming up from the pump, in front of the right cover. If oil is running down the tube from above, or boiling up from below, the o rings are bad.

If all that checks good, the problem is likely in the control valve, relief valve or the pump.

Let us know...
Click to expand...

Well I stand corrected in so far as not looking like to much trouble to get the lift cover off,,, First the manual states that I should be able to get the forks to spread off thier seats with a peice of wood through the side covers but clearly I am missing something in that statement? Besides shoving from opposite side ports and too prying, I also tried to individually feed an electrical wire around each finger and out the port and then pry with leverage to no avail.

Secondly, short of beating the lid and chancing cracking the cast of this part which likely cannot be replaced, it seems after 66 years of tigh fit she will not release. Pry bars and 2x4's have not budged it in the least even with my 180 lbs pearced ontop while prying between the axle and lift arm! Any tips or ideas, heat maybe, sure don't want to warp anything either????
 
(quoted from post at 05:18:36 08/31/16) On each side of the transmission case, below the seat, there are round inspection covers. Remove the covers. You may loose a little oil, but no need to drain it. Start it up, move the lever to lift position.

Get a flashlight and look inside, but don't put your hands in there!!!

Looking up and back, you will find the bottom of the lift cylinder. Look for oil leaking from the rear of the cylinder. If there is oil pouring out, the cylinder seals are bad. A little oil is normal, just not a lot.

There is also a tube coming up from the pump, in front of the right cover. If oil is running down the tube from above, or boiling up from below, the o rings are bad.

If all that checks good, the problem is likely in the control valve, relief valve or the pump.

Let us know...
Click to expand...

Ok then... Put an implement on with a few hundred extra lbs of weight for back pressure to reveal leakage above, but there are no seals or o-rings with the tube being pressed in at the upper and lower spots making this a very unlikely source of leakage.

Upon removal and inspection of the cover and work cylinder, both castings appear fully intact with no cracks and no scoring within the piston cavity.

The milled surfaces where the cylinder and cover meet to complete the channel were not entirely clean showing a touch of oxidization which one could not really call rust. At first glance the seal itself seemed good although at this juncture I must assume this to be the cause given the very little use on the apparatus in all.

For Re; and Re;
The cover plate surly does not see a lot of pressure so I am thinking a bead of silicon will make a sufficient gasket there. I am concerned with what gasket material to use for joining the cylinder to cover knowing there will be 1500 to 2000 lbs or more pressure!?? I do have some left over automotive differential gasket maker which is designed to hold up to the "gear oil" over time but I am not sure about the pressure aspect, any thoughts please and thanks?
 
Ok then... Put an implement on with a few hundred extra lbs of weight for back pressure to reveal leakage above, but there are no seals or o-rings with the tube being pressed in at the upper and lower spots making this a very unlikely source of leakage.

Upon removal and inspection of the cover and work cylinder, both castings appear fully intact with no cracks and no scoring within the piston cavity.

The milled surfaces where the cylinder and cover meet to complete the channel were not entirely clean showing a touch of oxidization which one could not really call rust. At first glance the seal itself seemed good although at this juncture I must assume this to be the cause given the very little use on the apparatus in all.

For Re; and Re;
The cover plate surly does not see a lot of pressure so I am thinking a bead of silicon will make a sufficient gasket there. I am concerned with what gasket material to use for joining the cylinder to cover knowing there will be 1500 to 2000 lbs or more pressure!?? I do have some left over automotive differential gasket maker which is designed to hold up to the "gear oil" over time but I am not sure about the pressure aspect, any thoughts please and thanks?[/quote]

After thought;
When I was removing the nuts off the bolts which fasten the cylinder to the cover, there was next to no effort required to break them free, a tad more than finger tight, which would presumably indicate the seal was far from sufficient or maybe I could have just tightened them prior to all the work and got away scott free, NOT!
 
Thank you all for your insights which made this job much less daunting.

This note is to finalize the topic confirming that although the large degree of fluid streaming from the fork return spring area where attached to the work cylinder, seemed to great to be that of a degraded gasket where the channel is married between the lift cover and the cylinder, this was in fact the cause for the failure to operate correctly. No hardware required which is a testament to the Ferguson Stem design and engineering!

Although unable to get a complete gasket kit shipped out of the States to Canada, I was able to source some of the various individual items, and then reinforced each surfaces with silicone gasket maker designed to with stand oil saturation. I hesitated to do this in the event I needed to reopen if I was not successful and hence would require reordering the gaskets again. All is well that ends well luckily. It will be a bugger if this needs to be cracked open in the future no doubt, however, she be torqued to spec and sealed damn good now for sure.

Were I to advise people what to do in such as this situation, I would say make sure of back pressure to find leaks ANY WHERE including above the fluid level and then prepare to drain the six (6) gallons of fluid from the get go in order to see what you’re doing especially so if unawares of the workings. With the drain plug out and a trouble light in the side inspection ports one can look and feel through the plug hole to the control valve and or spread the forks simply with large screw driver for removal. One would do well to look up some clips on YouTube to get an idea of what kind of fluid motion is normal or not in so far as the relief valve or pump goes, prior to draining. Unfortunately I thought of you tube while waiting on gasket delivery long after the trouble shooting stages but all the same learned a lot with the visual benefit..
 
(quoted from post at 02:40:17 09/29/16) Thank you all for your insights which made this job much less daunting.

This note is to finalize the topic confirming that although the large degree of fluid streaming from the fork return spring area where attached to the work cylinder, seemed to great to be that of a degraded gasket where the channel is married between the lift cover and the cylinder, this was in fact the cause for the failure to operate correctly. No hardware required which is a testament to the Ferguson Stem design and engineering!

Although unable to get a complete gasket kit shipped out of the States to Canada, I was able to source some of the various individual items, and then reinforced each surfaces with silicone gasket maker designed to with stand oil saturation. I hesitated to do this in the event I needed to reopen if I was not successful and hence would require reordering the gaskets again. All is well that ends well luckily. It will be a bugger if this needs to be cracked open in the future no doubt, however, she be torqued to spec and sealed damn good now for sure.

Were I to advise people what to do in such as this situation, I would say make sure of back pressure to find leaks ANY WHERE including above the fluid level and then prepare to drain the six (6) gallons of fluid from the get go in order to see what you’re doing especially so if unawares of the workings. With the drain plug out and a trouble light in the side inspection ports one can look and feel through the plug hole to the control valve and or spread the forks simply with large screw driver for removal. One would do well to look up some clips on YouTube to get an idea of what kind of fluid motion is normal or not in so far as the relief valve or pump goes, prior to draining. Unfortunately I thought of you tube while waiting on gasket delivery long after the trouble shooting stages but all the same learned a lot with the visual benefit..
Click to expand...

DO NOT put silicone sealer in the hydraulic system...even on gaskets. They will blow out then. Find you a New Holland dealer and get the gaskets for a 9N Ford. They are the same gaskets as a Ferguson but the ones that New Holland sells are made of better material and are thicker than the after market gaskets being sold.
 
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