1953 Massey TO35 Oil Pump Rebuild

Fisrt time to speak on this site. I get a lot of information here. Best as far as I'm concerned. I rebuilt the head (local machine shop) on my TO35 about two weeks ago. Everything fired right back up. Neighbors joke at my old tractor but it has a loader and everything I need. When I started it, ran great for the first few minutes then I started hearing noise.... Like low end noise. I QUICLY shut it off. I know the sound of this tractor. During that time no oil at all in the filter much less the head.

After hours of research I found it was likely the oil pump. HMMM. I dropped the pad. That was fun and pulled the oil pump. The set screw holding the shaft was gone. Scared the flat plate on the back of the pump. So I put the rebuild kit in my CART here at Yesterdays tractor and read up a bit more.

The bypass regulator is stuck and do not know how to get it out? How do you remove the plunger? the part below the screen. I think its stuck anyway. I just don't want to go through all this and determine the bypass is partially open or fully open. Has anyone done this before? Further I do not see that part on the rebuild kit.......

Sorry for the spelling: QUICKLY

Not Screen...... Below the spring.

The screw falling out of the pump shaft is a common problem, glad you caught it when you did! Did you find the missing screw?

Have you tried blowing the plunger out with air pressure? If that doesn't get it out, find something slightly smaller then the ID of the plunger cup (not the bore, but the inside of the plunger), try to cock it sideways to get a grip and pull. It shouldn't be too hard to get out, just don't scratch the bore, it is a precision fit.

A common misconception is that shimming or stretching the spring will raise idle oil pressure. It won't! As long as the pump housing, shafts, gears and plate are within wear limits, it will pump all it's going to pump.

Well that's just it. The screw got eaten away by the rotation of the gear. OR? I know. Maybe its still in there. That's why I'm going deeper.

I see what you are saying. I will try air. There is no common path.... Not straight anyway that I can push it out from the back side.

Looks to be a machined fit. I put a screw driver on the top of it to see if it was all the way down. It went knunk. About .25 inches down (deeper into the chamber) and stayed. I'm going to play with it a bit and see what I can do. I have some dental tools but like you said, I do not want to damage the side walls.

Update: After trying air pressure and blocking everything off it did not work. I then tried higher strength magnets. That did not work either. I did get it with a special tool. After bending it with heat, it was perfect to move it about .25 inches. I then backed it with small pieces of round stock just big enough to fit into the hole on top and slide into the chamber. I kept using the tool until it was out. Done.

Please be sure to prime the pump when you put it back in. I have been using Lucas oil additive which is a bit thick and brings the oil right up. I
hold the pump in my vice pour some in and turn the gear to get the pump moving.

Tom: Appreciate all the help. I run Lucas for my sons motorcycle. I will for sure use it. I think at this point I'm not going to get in a hurry. I have an MF135. I just like the older one better. Considering all the factors, I'm going to check the mains and rod bearings. I can see the rod bearing will be pretty easy. Not sure about the main bearings. I do not want to split the tractor. Have you ever done mains on a Z134 without splitting the tractor?

Haven't done a to35, the to30 I have done as rear bearings are serviceable without having to split the tractor.