A few of the right size wrenches and possibly a set of torches. Putting it back together as 2, requires a knack for puzzles. Might as well take it apart at his place, this is heavy. Back to the subject of trailers...
 
Leave it as 3 bottom. Not many for sale. I looked several years before I bought one.(3x12) Gave $475. Your tractor 35-40 will pull it OK. You have to remove the left frame and top brace and move tail wheel to other plow.
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They always pull harder until they get "Scoured" (shined up)..don't be discouraged at first and keep a puty knife handy to scrape the stuck soil off until
the plow scours...it will pull much easier then..

I prefer to coat my "wearing surfaces" with oil ( or grease) , then spray on a coat of cheap Enamel paint to protect the oil or grease..

Lasts and scours right off..
 
that is part of the problem. I have owned three 2btm plows in the past and my garden is not very big which means the "scouring" effect is poor at best.
 
Oh, I ment a torch to heat the nuts, not cut anything. As I look at Miner's, it isn't a parts switch like making a one out of a two, this will be easy.
Yeah it takes a half acre to scour one, and the people who want to know how much tractor it takes to pull 3 or 4 or 5.... usually don't know how to plow to begin with, and should spend a lot of time just learning how to set and adjust a one bottom. I got a selection of one bottoms, the more seat time, the more you learn, the less you mess up, better looking end results-so not a job anymore!! Check out some 'ploughing matches' on you tube
 

Take it to the quarry on Indian Creek road and run it through the sand and stone dust there . It will shine like a mirror in less than a half hour's work .
 
I think it is basically a matter of removing the middle bottom and long brace.I used to have Fergy plow literature somewhere around here that showed it being done in steps.You could buy a 2 bottom plow then add the middle bottom if you upgraded to a 30 or 35 tractor.
 
I think you are wasting your time,
I have a 3x12" plow almost just like the one in the picture, MF 62.

a 12" Ferguson plow does not have much throat, in heavy debris it will choke (bad)
in a clean field it does a good job, but most of my plowing is turning under corn stalks or garden debris and it chokes.

I borrow my neighbors 14" ford 101 three bottom, that he just torched off the rear plow,
that plow has much more throat area, it only choked once, the rest of the time the garden debris just past on through and flip over, great plow.

if I had my choice, I would have a two bottom 16" plow as it would even have more throat area.

just my humble opinion

before I found out my neighbor had the 14" Ford 101 plow I bought a MF disc plow, it does a good job of rolling the debris but in my opinion, not as good as the Ford 101,
however, the disc plow will plow in rocks, roots, etc and keep on going, the ford 101 has the kick back feature which will save the plow, if you hit something solid.
the old Ferguson plows with curved beams will break or bend.
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I have the same problem, not enough land to plow to clean the wings,

The last couple of years I plow my gardens get the wings as bright as possible then clean any residue rust off with a wire brush,

Then paint the wings with John Deere wing paint, this material slides right off as soon as the plow hits the dirt, good stuff,
 
Looks basically like the ford. I've done many over the years. Unbolt the whole 3rd plow section then unbolt the whole 3rd bottom with the tailwheel attached, then unbolt the 2nd bottom and switch it with the one with the tailwheel bottom. Sometime you can get away with using the same bolt, sometime they will nee to be replaced. In my hard rocky ground it's easier to pull a two bottom than it is to pull a three bottom.
This way you will have an extra bottom,shares, moldbroad should you break something or need it. Two bottoms sell easier then three bottom cause there's a lot more people looking for two bottoms. And you might get the same price

Kirk
 
As far as taking the rust off the plow, buy yourself a gallon of muriatic acid, put on your safety glasses and rubber gloves, then take an old paint brush and paint the acid on. Do it a few times. DON'T DUE IT ON A CONCRETE FLOOR. Before you start with the acid, take a wire brush and clean all the dirt off the bottoms. This will remove most of the rust, and it will scour faster when you get to the field.
 

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