steve19438

Well-known Member
so I looked at it on Friday. seems to be in better than average condition except for two things.

the neutral safety switch is not wired but the tractor starts without it. would this indicate a re-wiring at some point?

the tractor is a SGM model. two stage clutch, right? the pedal meets resistance 1/2 way down but nothing before that. with having the clutch pedal on the foot rest the PTO keeps spinning. no where in the clutch travel does the PTO stop spinning. the trans shifts ok, clutch does not slip but even with the pedal all the way down when engaging the PTO there is a bit of grinding.

am I dreaming to think a simple clutch adj. will solve anything?

thanks.
 
Sounds like the clutch needs adjustment, PTO should stop with pedal completely down. If the free play is excessive that will make it act that way too.
 
The 2 safety switch wire will be wired together most the time. When switch goes bad that is what most people do. Just replace new switch and add the two wires. Doesn't matter which wire goes on post. This lets it make circuit when in neutral and start. I have seen them wired together and switch still be ok. Don't know why guess they don't want to be safe.
 
to me half the clutch travel felt like free play. if I buy it I don't want to wind up having to spilt the tractor. once was enough for me!!!
 
The clutch is probably just out of adjustment. As long as the release bearing wasn't grinding it should adjust OK.

The safety switch is a minor fix.
 
As Miner said the safety switch issue is very minor! lol. If switch is missing or bad, they are available; I've seen them on someone's site recently, Stevens or Steiner or someone, maybe this site. Not sure about clutch adjustment. Maybe that's it. Question might be, can you get it for a good enough price that live PTO would not be deal breaker? I had a MH50, same tractor except hood slightly different, and it was a nice tractor, sits higher than a 35, has same power.
 
he is asking 3500. I offered 2500. probably a bit too much but this tractor is 35 miles from our property in upstate pa verses renting a trailer and towing one of mine 205 miles one way.
 
When you own two properties, you got to have a trailer. When you have tractors, you got to have a 2 axle trailer. Mine is almost 30 years old, it doesn't take long to pay for itself. Don't need to be brand new, just good. There must be 20 on craigslist near you...
If you are going to chisel someone a grand... have 25 Ben Franklins in an envelope... that will most likely seal the deal...
if it is as good as you reckon, worth 25 yeah. If he is that close, offer him another 100 to deliver it, might do? good luck
 
I hear ya tony but the one's I see on CL look like crap to me. I have resisted the urge to upgrade my single axle trailer solely because I would be tempted to have more machines ON THE PROPERTY. gotta keep the piece somehow. think of the single axle trailer as the governor on an engine.

btw: he sent me an email and said he would take 2600.
 

So just tell him -for 26 ya gotta help me get it to my place 30 odd miles away- if he or a friend of his got a trailer to do it... wouldn't take em 2 hours.
 
Hi Steve

Most of MF-50 came with the clutch pedal directly connected to the lever side of bell housing.

Some MF-50 came with a pivot at the end of clutch pedal connected to a rod that goes to
a lever side of the bell housing (same setup as MF-65.) If yours has this setup there are
2 holes at the bell housing pivot. The purpose of these holes is to lower the clutch pedal
(more comfortable) when the PTO is not in use (it may be set at that position).
If PTO is used the the pin is moved to the other hole then the clutch pedal is higher (less comfortable).

HTH

Joe Ferguson
 
(quoted from post at 07:44:40 08/07/16) so I looked at it on Friday. seems to be in better than average condition except for two things.

the neutral safety switch is not wired but the tractor starts without it. would this indicate a re-wiring at some point?

the tractor is a SGM model. two stage clutch, right? the pedal meets resistance 1/2 way down but nothing before that. with having the clutch pedal on the foot rest the PTO keeps spinning. no where in the clutch travel does the PTO stop spinning. the trans shifts ok, clutch does not slip but even with the pedal all the way down when engaging the PTO there is a bit of grinding.

am I dreaming to think a simple clutch adj. will solve anything?

thanks.


Steve, the PTO can grind for two reasons. Either, the clutch pedal does not open it so the plate stop rotating, as the others have mentioned. I mean that the clutch pedal is out of adjustment. The other reason is that if the tractor and the PTO has not been used for a long time, the splines on the clutch plate might have rusted and is stuck to the axle shaft. This way it is pushed against the flywheel and will spin along even if the pedal is pressed down. This last option is in fact quite common.
When it comes to the adjustment, it can either be the clutch pedal itself, or it can be the adjustment inside the clutch.

Let us hope it is the easy reason for the problem.

If the splines are rusted, it is possible to get through the hole under the bellhousing and see what is going on up there.
If you have something to put on the PTO shaft that really is a heavy load, like a snowblower and a snow pile, or what do you call these large mower things, like a huge lawn mower. If the PTO is heavy loaded with something and you press the pedal, and the pedal is adjusted right, the clutch plate might loosen and come free. Even the plate itself can be rusted to the flywheel. But, in either case it is not an expensive fix. Even if it is a hassle if you need to split the tractor to clean it up and make it go free.

The adjustment inside the tractor is also something you need to split it for, but it is also a minor thing. If the plates are worn, it will add cost to it, but it does not have to be that bad.


Bill
 

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