TO-30 boiling gas

Helping a friend with his to30. A
little history. He called and said it
wouldn't start. Figuring he isn't one
for troubleshooting I divided in.
Needed the standard, plugs, rotor, cap,
points, condenser and before in the
carb. Adjusted the float per the kit
instructions and put it all back
together. Adjusted the load needle to
factoryish settings.

Put them all in and after getting the
plug wires in the correct order, it
fired right up. It ran well, etc etc.

He calls me a couple weeks later and
says gas is boiling. After digging
through the archives common thing is
running lean. I suggest opening the
load needle some to see if that fixes
the problem. Seems it didn't make a
difference. It set right now at 2 1/8
out. I don't remember what the kit
said, but he is saying the float is
9/16" off the gasket. Is that too low
and could that cause the thing to rub
so lean it would boil the gas in the
tank? It was warm that day, probably in
the 90s, but not excessively hot out.
I'm open to ideas.

I did check timing, it wasn't changed
when playing with the points and it
didn't boil before the tune up, but it
didn't run well enough to run it hard
before.

Thanks.

My friends TO30 also boils gas when pulling hard like plowing, he said it had done it for years with no problem,
Told him it would be a problem for me, if my tractor had boiling fuel in the tank,

My 1957 TO35 gas engine does not boil gas, however it has a shield that covers the exhaust manifold protecting the fuel tank from some of the direct heat,

I looked it up on google, there is a heat deflector for a TO30 that mounts above the exhaust manifold, just wonder if the fuel back then was a different mixture and did not burn as hot?
Or if they came with these heat deflectors, were they taken off during repair over the years,

they all do it when you work them hard more so if the tank is low on fuel

That has been an ongoing problem with the 30's.

Setting the main jet is best done under load. If it is lean enough to run hot, it probably is lacking performance too. Try a partial choke when it is under load. If running improves, open the needle a little more. A good non load test is to get the engine up to temp, idle it down, then give it a sudden full throttle. It should take throttle without hesitation and give a slight puff of black smoke.

Slow ignition timing also increases exhaust manifold temps. Is the centrifugal advance working? Might bump the timing up a few degrees if it's not clattering under load.

I've never tried it, but it should be easy to fit some thin, non flammable insulation material between the engine and the bottom of the tank. Seems like I've seen the insulation at HD in the HVAC department.

Pat,
I did a search on goggle:
Heat shield for a TO30 Ferguson,

the picture of the heat shield came right up showing it in the factory manual,

Be safe, secure you a heat shield


Also chech out those carb adjustments the other guys mentioned
motor needs to be running properly heat shield or not,

My TO35 would not boil but would almost get to that point. The gas would flash in the sediment bowl which would cause vapor lock after about 30 min of operation. I would get it flowing again and it would run fine for another 5 or so minutes. Then it would vapor lock in the bowl again. This went on for a entire season trying to figure it out. Removed tank, re-tubed with bigger line and clean carb Nothing helped. Finally replaced the bowl with a 1/2" ball valve. Have not had a problem for a couple of years now.