Re-torquing exhaust manifold.

I installed a new manifold, studs, gasket and nuts. Had a starting issue and things are working great now. Question, when should I re torque
the manifold bolts? How many warm up cool down cycles should I do before the re torque? How long should I let it run before re torquing?
Gotta pull the gas tank again to do it proper. Thanks,
 
I replaced with new studs and nuts,
Torqued them to the proper specifications, two years later no problems
Some were a trick to get to on a TO35 gas, had to redneck modify some wrenches to tighten all nuts

I assume New off shore intake/exhaust manifolds are not as slim as original
 
Yes I could not actually torque them all. Some on the inside were with a open end wrench modified and a box wrench ground down as well. I did the ones that I could by torque and felt the same pressure with the wrenches. Not scientific at all but the best I could. At least the number 4 side could be torqued.
 
I had the same problem the Chinese aftermarket exhaust manifold was too thick and the holes didn't line up. One of the nuts wouldn't even start on the bolt. I wound up taking a die grinder and thinning them a bit and wallowing out the holes so the carb would install. I think I ground off a quarter inch off one of the mounts.
 
I just put one of the aftermarket, "original-style" manifolds on my TO-20, ordered from the "other" website.
Fit was good: the mounting flange was slightly thicker, but it didn't cause any problems.
Like Delawaresurfman, I couldn't get a socket/torque wrench on all of the nuts, so I did some by feel, and "nipped them up tight".
I ran the engine for an hour or so, then removed the fuel tank, and re-tightened the nuts. I was able to get them a little tighter.
The hardest part of the job was scraping the remains of the old gasket from the cylinder head, where I had used Copper Coat to install it a few years ago. :( I installed this manifold gasket DRY.
 

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