1951 Ferguson TEA 20 won't run

Hi,
My TEA20 was running pretty good, after a mechanic and I replaced the head gasket. It was running okay after some initial issues, then it just died. I thought it was a carb issue, thoroughly cleaned it many times, no go. When I put the carb back on after cleaning it, I didn't fill it up first, figured it would fill when I turned on the gas. Also noticed that the graphite/carbon button inside the distributor cap at top was gone, must have broken off and I didn't noticed when I took the dist cap off. I have no put on a new dist cap, new wires, new coil. I did fill the carb up yesterday, put it back on, because the float was stuck. Do I always need to fill the bowl and then put the float in, then put it back on? When I did that, the plugs no longer fouled but still won't run. I did get a couple poofs of black smoke once or twice. If the tractor has been flooding for a while, can this gas wash the engine? I checked the oil and it looks good, no smell of gas.
The mechanic says the points are set, timing is set, carb screws are set, but it won't run? HELP !!!
 
There is no need to prefill the carb, it will fill as soon as the fuel valve is opened.

If the carb is truly flooding, and the air filter hose was connected, yes it could have filled the cylinders, and washed down the rings. If flooding is suspected, remove the air filter hose at the carb, turn on the fuel, and see if gas begins to drip out the air inlet. If it does, there is either trash in the needle/seat, the needle/ seat is damaged, the float is sunk, or the float level is set too high.

It is normal for an up draft carb to drip gas following a failed choke assisted start. That is not to be confused with true flooding.

Might try rechecking the spark AT the plugs. Review everything done with the ignition, firing order, initial timing, point gap, etc. Remove the plugs, clean them up, crank the engine through to remove any fuel from the cylinders (be careful with sparking plug wires!!!), let it sit and dry out, add a squirt of oil to each cylinder, try again. Leave the air filter hose off so you can watch for flooding, and if it does flood, the gas will go on the ground instead of in the engine.

Also be sure the air filter is clean. There is a mesh filter element above the oil cup that needs periodic cleaning.
 
Hi, thanks and i'll follow your advice. I did have the air intake off and the gas did drip out, so I suspect the engine is fine. After cleaning the needled valve and installing, I made sure it was very right. The alum washer isn't in great shape and it may be possible that gas was running out before the needle valve? Also the need valve doesn't drop that easily, it sticks. And the float will stick on the bottom when its empty. By filling up the bowl and installing again, I did get smoke and it nearly started. Now it seems that starter is binding up... Likely got it too hot over the last few days.. I wonder if my best option isn't to buy a new carb? I"ll take the plugs out now and dry, and put a bit of oil in each head.
thanks
 
I adjusted the throttle linkeage, didn't seem to be getting gas now, opposite of before... plugs are now dry but its puffing smoke.. and when I stop cranking it nearly goes.. maybe its out of time... i've googled that, the plugs are ordered correctly, new wires, new coil, didn't replace the condensor but all plugs are sparking...
:)
 
Hello,

A little tip. Let us assume that everything is fine with the ignition, and that the compression is fine. So, the problem has something to do with the fuel delivery, wherever the problem is.

I have found this to work very well, I make sure there is no fuel in the carb, shut off the valve under the fuel tank, drain the carb. Then if the spark plugs are wet from former attempts, take out all the spark plugs and crank the engine for a while with the spark plug holes open to dry it out. Or let it stay open over night, but who has the time for that.
Then, when the engine is dry, squirt about a teaspoon of pure and clean gas, in at least one spark plug hole, preferably two or all four, then hurry up replacing the spark plugs, put the wires on and try to start. This is best done when the weather is not so warm, like in the morning or in the evening if you live in a hot state.

Then, when the last spark plug wire is in place, jump on the seat and try to start. If things are normal, it should start and run a few turns until it dies out. The good thing is that this way you will see if it starts and runs, or not. If it starts and runs, you know for sure it is something with the fuel delivery, carb. or whatever. If it does not start, you have either had too little fuel in the spark plug holes, or there is something else wrong with the engine.
On an engine with downdraft carb it is easier to just pour a little gas down the barrels after removing the air cleaner, but on the TEA 20 I find it better to fill a little in the spark plug holes.
You might attempt to squirt gas into the carb after taking off the air cleaner tube, while cranking. You just have to be sure the engine is dry before you do it, and that the carb is empty so it does not fool up things for you.


Bill
 
Sounds like the starter draws so much current, there's not enough going through the switch
and solenoid to fire the coil. Might try pull-starting. Maybe you can short wire to the coil
without using the switch. Does your coil have internal resistance or does it need an external
ballast?
 
That is a great idea Bill, I will try that tonight after work. I have a feeling its the fuel delivery system. Thanks! I love this ole tractor, but darn I need it to run to do some work around my campground!! :) Carl
 
I did try short circuiting it previously, still ends up binding. When no plugs are in it doesn't bind but that make sense. How would I know if my coil has internal resistance needs an external
ballast? As I posted to Bill, i'll try the gas in the plug holes to see if I can confirm its a fuel problem. It is quite likely I have a few issues to deal with. Thanks again. This forum is great help.
 
"and when I stop cranking it nearly goes"

That would indicate that either the starter is dragging the voltage too low for ignition or too much resistance between switch and coil.

Coils are usually 1 1/2 ohms between + and-- posts (6 volt or 12 volt external resistor required) or 3 ohms (direct 12 volt, no external resistor required)

If you have 12 volt battery the 1 1/2 ohm coil needs approximately equal 1 1/2 ohms of resistance.

If you have a resistor between coil and switch, jumper it and see if it improves starting.
 

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