Hydraulics quadrant

pcp20us

Member
Hi Guys

I ve been playing with the quadrant setup. tea20

IT lifts when almost at the top of quadrant,when lever is pulled up. i have set it at 2.5 inches from top of quadrant as per manual. However it never starts to drop at this point. IT drops and drops all of a sudden toward the lower part of the quadrant. From what i have read i think this is a leak? but been reading a lot and might have my wires crossed.

The arms sink down when tractor is turned off, which i would expect on such an old machine. Trying to find the happy point between hyradulics working but not having to be like new.

Where is a good starting point to start checking for leaks, or does the pump have to come out?
 

Sounds a little like the control valve is sticking or bent , hesitates then lets go all of a sudden . Dropping the pump is not hard to do once the oil is out and it gives you an excuse to replace the PTO seal at the same time .
 
I think part of what you are fighting is the root of the Harry Ferguson vs Henry Ford ll lawsuit. Ford pistons have a nylon O ring instead of HF 3 iron rings. To drop was a safety feature, most of the device is to adjust or keep a constant depth whilst ploughing, not so much concern over plain up and down implements.
If you need to keep the lift arms up for a long period, you can do like Ford and replace an iron ring with a nylon. Other than than, yeah, adjust the lever etc... a 35 or other MF is worst, you need to keep both levers exact- and Murphy's law sez you will reach down and move the wrong one at the wrong time...
Richard found some nice reading for you, but do remember, these tractors were designed to replace a horse...
 
Have you checked the tension on the top link spring? With the weight of a plough hanging on the top link you should just be able to turn the spring by hand.....Now set your quadrant...only very slightly slacken the 4 mounting bolts and tap the
quadrant back and forwards until the plough sits kinda in a neutral position with the lever set part way down the quadrant, as you are doing.....Now a 1/4 inch either way should either lift or lower the plough?...If not you need to go inside, Start by
draining some oil so as to be able to remove the dipstick side inspection cover.......oil level should be to the bottom of that hole...now lift the plough and look upwards at the ram and see if it drips...If so you need new rings and maybe even to hone the
cylinder....Otherwise you need to check the control valve on the pump....Sam
 
Thats what i forgot to mention. With the slasher lift so to adjust the drapft spring It is loose, There is about 5mm play between the spring and the yoke. Similarly when the is nothing on the top link is is really loose, I have been trying to get the yoke of but its playing hard to get..

Richard. Yep have read most of the archieves for this, I think i must have a leaky one due to the dropping when switch off and the all or nothing dropping.... But just started back to a full time work contract so the old girl is a bit on the back burner

I just know that its is different to the other tea20 hyraulics i was using.

Looks like the pump will have to come out one wekend after doing some more playing
 
Here is that post again, as unable to edit for spelling errors


Thats what i forgot to mention. With the slasher lifted all the way up to adjust the draft spring, the spring is loose, There is about 5mm play between the spring and the yoke. Similarly when the is nothing on the top link is is loose, I have been trying to get the yoke off but its playing hard to get..

Richard. Yep have reading most of the archieves for this, I think i must have a leaky one due to the dropping when switch off and the all or nothing dropping.... But just started back to a full time work contract so the old girl is a bit on the back burner

I just know that its is different to the other tea20 hydraulics i was using.

Looks like the pump will have to come out one weekend after doing some more playing
 
Make a washer with a slot to slide over the top link control rod and temporarily tighten that spring and then try your settings.....Sometimes you need to get a thin acetylene torch and heat down between the spring to loosen the rusted on top link yoke. I
find it is best to completely redden the complete yoke end until it is just free to turn with a bar through the hole...then quench it with water until it is real cold and it should screw off. I have seen cases where people heat it until it starts turning and then it
cools and tightens again so they heat some more and then force it and snap the threaded rod!...Be careful!.....Sam
 

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