Aussie slasher setup refining

pcp20us

Member
Ha guys.

I have my 4 foot slasher setup with limiting chains on my tea20, with the rear raised a tad higher than the front with a adjustable toplink and the front sitting of the ground.
I am mowing a undulating piece of ground hence sc;aping the ground etc.

From reading here people say limiting chains work well, i find when you go thru a gully it leaves good dig marks from the skids on the slasher, adjusting for more clearance on skid pads means you get a too high a cut.

So wondering if using a jockey wheel on the rear and then using the draft control to control the height of the front of the slasher with a solid top link to stop the scalping .works better than limiting chains.


:D
 
Using a solid top link and the draft control to manage the front of the mower works like a charm for me--but only on even ground.

If the front of the tractor rises (i.e. starting up a slight incline) the changed angle changes the draft control and the mower is raised well up. If the front of the tractor drops (i.e. starting down an incline) the angle changes the other way and the draft control drops the mower right into the ground.

I made a position control device for my TO30 that holds the lift arms at a set and adjustable height off the ground. (more fine tuning available than my chains gave me). I have a top link with some flex, and the rear of the mower is help up by a wheel. Works OK, but I still drag on the ground at times.

If you want no dragging, perhaps full floating with wheels all around is your best choice?
 
gidday mate. No way to avoid this. It isn't a lawn mower, like Jeremy sez, 4 wheel casters, etc etc, but, 'with the top link shortened, so's the arsend's in the air... and what you're running over is tearing the stuffin out of the dirt anyway...
If you can tame the place, scrapes or not, then start using an old riding lawn mower- or 3 point lawn mower attachment... with 4 casters...but the nature of the slashing beast is that it will skid.
I must have scalped the lawn 10 or 12 times on an acre and a half, 3 point, 3 blade with casters. Now it's the casters that dig in. But slasher or mower, the ground will learn its lesson, and year after year you will eventually level it off... whether you intended to or not. So nay bloody worries mate, she'll be right...
 
Good info.

I was playing yesterday. I set the slasher skids about 25 mm of the ground with chains and raised the skid plates so the blade is closer to the ground, and tried it with out the pto shaft, it worked better with the slasher floating but looks like the blade will now contact the ground sometimes, in those dips, ill keep playing, Might make up a temp jocky wheel to see how the draft works then for controlling the front of slasher.

I ll add a photo soon.
 
Righto Slasher setup.

36209.jpg
36210.jpg


Also a photo of the gearbox, Anyone familar with this box. I am gueesing the filler hole is the big nut on the top right hand corner, but i cannot get it to move, Is thia the filler hole or something else :)
36211.jpg
 

A really robust gearbox PcP , strange considering that the gears in the Howard reduction drive for Fergusons were so prone to stripping . Not a common model though , later ones have rectangular cases , I have one , not as tough as the one you have though.
The big nut is the filler plug but for some reason they develop ' fur ' on the inside and are really difficult to get off . Take off the top cover plate , clean off the internal corrosion and use some heat to coax it off . It won't hurt to flush out the box at the same time . There should be a vent hole somewhere [ the black dot on the plug maybe ], these are often blocked up with paint or rust and can cause the seals to blow oil if they are . A cornflakes packet makes a good gasket if you have to replace it .
 
Thanks charles, Good to here about the gearbox, I checked the oil the other day and all i got was a drop of water out of it. I flushed some oil thru it. and some thicker oil came out, so time for a refresh.
I had not noticed the black dot on the nut, The weld or whatever in the centre of the nut had me thinking.
 
Cornflakes? Last time I was in Oz... it was trendy to eat ...??? muse-ly? Vit-a-mix? Not as good as cornflakes, but better than vegemite on toast.... cripes pcp! don't get any vegemite in the gearbox! It'll never turn again!!! but... might not leak anymore either????
That beast looks so flippin heavy, you're lucky all it does is skid now and then... must be half a ton.... or atleast the fergie max of 800 lb.s?
 
Oil mixed with some vegemite max a great corn head grease!!!

Its a baby slasher, but a solid beast, fergie handles it great like....

It needs a new skid pad on one side as its rusted itself off, so i get to practice my top notch welding skills :D .
 
Try using a chain for a top link...Set it so the chains to the fixed/hinged pin hold up the front of the mower and the top link chain holds up the rear. ...Worth a try???
 
Sammie me ol son a thee ol sod! It's a surprise to see you back in civilization!!
There were rumors you were kidnapped by a harom of Mongolian belly dancers...sad to see it wasn't true...
It looks as tho PCP has enough shackles and chains on there already... a hold over from convict days???
 
remove the top cover, the filler bolt is well stuck, tried heat and lube,to lossen the sucker butit will not move. The top plate is cracked near the edge in and around the filler bolt and it looks like coast.

So do not want to put to much suck on it. Any ideas appreciated..
 
Which coast? Gold Coast? Bondi beach? some other half a bikini optional patch of washed up jellyfish and drowneded penguins? Long stories from another millennium.....
anyway- the inch & 1/2 filler plug is that stuck? Beginning to think your poor fergie might be knackered mate... or is that cover re-incarnated Spitfire MK3's and carbon monoxide filled HawkerTyphoons???? Electralisis from the iron cap rotted it? I don't know how these aluminium alloys lasted this long of hard use...
 

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