1948 TE20 bogging

78CJ

Member
When I move the throttle on my new to me TE20 it boggs down then catches up and runs fine. My father in law used it quite a bit last year and told me that the governor was giving him a little trouble by not kicking in when he was cultivating? Will the governor cause bogging on no load throttle adjustments?

Ryan
 
Try using a little choke, just for a test. If it improves, the mixture is too lean. Set the throttle lever at full speed. Manually pull the governor to idle and release it. The throttle plate should spring wide open instantly, then close as the RPM comes up. The engine should accelerate from idle to governed speed with no hesitation. Keep turning the main screw out until it will, a puff of dark smoke is acceptable.

First, check the points setting and the distributor shaft bushing for wear. Check the centrifugal advance, be sure it is free and springs back when released.
 

The mechanic that got everything up and running for me did say that there was some play in the distributor bushing. As a matter of fact now that I think of it, the bogging did not really start until I replaced the rotor. The O.E.M. one I purchased had a shorter contact than the one I took out. I blamed the longer one for the reason I had to replace it because it had broken which was probably form hitting the contact. Maybe the previous owner had done this swap on purpose. (I purchased the tractor from an estate).
 
I suspect you're on the right track with the rotor. They are easy to break, the cap and cover have to be set exactly in place or it will hit.
 

The only thing is I am not sure why the O.E.M. one would be shorter and how would the previous owner have found a longer one?
 

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