Breaking new ground

Figuratively and literally. * happy I hooked the breaking plow up to the ol' Ferguson and cut some furrows by the garden. I think I have the wheel spacing wrong, but overall I thought I did pretty good for someone who's never plowed a row before.
I did learn some things: 1. A 20 hp tractor isn't as strong as a 3" oak root. 2. When you live at the base of a mountain you have a lot of rocks in the soil. 3. If you hit a large enough rock, at a fast enough speed, your knee will smack against the tractor really hard. *( crying 4. It's a whole lot easier to turn over soil with machinery than a shovel. *#-o d'oh!
BillL

Keep going until it's all clean. Slow and shallow might be the best way to go until you work your way down
to the desired depth. I once picked up a chisel point plow from the owner who went too deep too fast. It
seemed to have stripped the bolts off the ring gear in the final drive.
Shallow is starting to sound a lot easier, right?

Yep, shallow would be better, but I'm too dumb to figure out how to do that. The lift arms won't stay mid-way up without working the lift control and I'm not coordinated enough to move the lever up and down while I'm driving the tractor and bouncing around.
I've never used a plow, only used a disc once, but I'm getting pretty good with the drag blade and pond scoop. Any info on how to used the implements correctly or where I can find instructions on using them is appreciated.
BillL

is that a disc plow?

Sounds like you are trying to go too fast, try 1st gear with about 1/2 throttle to start with. This should prevent you bouncing around and also allow the hydraulics to automatically control the depth. You should be able to lower the implement and allow it to penetrate by altering the Draft Control Lever as you travel forward. Lift and lower this Lever slightly until you get the depth that you want. If the ground is very hard then you will need to do it a couple of times, starting shallow and then deeper on the second run. You adjust the depth with the Control Lever all the time unless the ground is flat. You can speed it up when the ground is easier, you don't drive it at full throttle. If you drive it too fast this could apply too much pressure down the top link and it wont be able to control properly. Just drive at a sensible speed and you have time to control the depth and steer it as well safely. The Top Link should normally be 25" from centre to centre of the Pin Holes. If you have rocks in your soil, you should only travel slowly or the safety device will operate and you will lose traction on the Rear Wheels and you also run the danger of breaking or bending something
If you need more information. just email and say what you wish to know. John(UK) [email protected]

Watch some you tube videos of people tilling with fergies. I can't tell if your wheels are set right, but the plow looks like it got some problems, but you just have to think around them.
As the right tires are in the first furrow, the moldboard should pile the soil up against the last row- not 2 feet apart like what it looks like here. If you got another implement to level this back off, try going in the other direction if possible, even if it isn't any deep next time.
New ground is tough to plow (plough), land that been worked once or twice a year for years- or centuries like where John UK is, heck- this can be fun!!!
Show us some pics of that plow too, don't worry about coulters, but a tail wheel would be nice, not necessary, horse drawn never had em, and as John said, adjusting the top link and leveling box will help a lot. I park the rear tire on an 8x8 wooden block, then turn the lever till the bottom of the share is flat on the deck. You'll get it!!!! Pretty good start already!!!

Thanks for the tips. I was in 1st gear, but I think the top link isn't adjusted correctly. I also gave it more gas when it hung up, which I figured out was a bad idea 'cause all that does is spin the tires. :-( The furrows are only 20 feet long since I knew this was a "test".
The plow came with the tractor that was given to me by my father-in-law shortly before he passed away. I'll get some pictures of it today and post them later.
I'm going out after lunch and hook up the pond scoop and toss all the rocks in it and move them out of the way.
Thanks again,
BillL

(quoted from post at 05:36:44 03/06/16) is that a disc plow?

Click to expand...

Nope, it's a moldboard.
Here are some pictures just after I finished plowing.
I think I know some of my plowing troubles.
1. The top link needed to be shorter since the tip of the plow is tilted up instead of being level.
2. I had the stabilizer link (I should be using a stabilizer link, right? :? )set in the shorter position (the link I have has three holes, 29 1/2" and 31 1/2 " center to center). This cocked the plow over to the left and had the top link cocked as well.

The weatherguessers are calling for 3 to 5 inches of rain early this week, so it'll be a few weeks before I can plow again. That'll give me time to pick out the rocks and level the ground.
Thanks again,
BillL

You wrote: (I should be using a stabilizer link, right? :? ) It is best to NOT use stabilizer bars on a plow. Just have your check chains set so that the plow cannot hit your tires. This allows a properly adjusted plow to follow naturally and to move when encountering a rock.

Oh yeah. Just looking at all the thread on the top link is a giveaway. Like John UK said, +/- 25". But your plow ain't a fergie plow that's fer sure.
As John in Ont says, you kinda want to adjust the plow to steer itself straight, not relying on a sway bar. There was a rule of sorts 'bars are not to be used on ground engaging implements' ... easier said than done tho huh?
And you can see the point isn't aimed level, it's up in the air- the point should be level or pointed down a hair, depends on the dirt- so thread the top link in till it atleast does that. And from the side, you can imagine what I was saying about putting an 8 by 8 under the left tie, then turn the right link crank till the 'landside and share' are sitting flat on the pavement. The first row can be done as the plow is now, then sit on the block and adjust the leveling box crank. Gosh I like working on solid level pavement. Makes things easier just standing back and looking at it.
Where are you in Ark?

ark,
wish we lived close, I would let you borrow a plow that loves that kind of new ground.
It eats rocks and roots for lunch.

old Ferguson disk plow,

it rolls over a rock and keeps going or flips it out, cut the roots no problem.
my friend and I have two of them.
the gray one is a Ferguson, the red one is a later model Bent tube MF disc plow,

I guess they were used before trip plows came on the scene, as new ground would break old non trip flat bottom plows.

be careful, if you hang something solid you can break lift system or hurt your back/neck.

also note your plow appears to have sheer bolts, be sure they are soft bolt and should break and let your plow flip back before it tears up something, should be grade 2 bolts.
also the flip part may be rusted up and would not flip even if the sheer bolt was not ever in the frame.

You never use Stabilizer bars with a Plow, moving the Plow across the cross-shaft should allow it to ride in the correct position and alter the furrow width. The check chains should only tighten when the implement is raised and this is to stop the implement swinging into the wheels. If the chains are tight at any time, it will prevent the 3 point from lifting fully and this will allow th3 safety valve to blow. The chains should be attached at the inner end to the top hole of the anchor brackets around the PTO shaft. John(UK) [email protected]

OK, the stabilizer link's coming off. 8)

Tony, I'm in Little Rock, guess that's why I have so many in the ground. :lol:

wellmax99, the shear bolt is a very soft carriage bolt, and I was smart enough to make sure the trip part wasn't rusted up. Thanks for the offer, looks like that plow is just the ticket for me. I'll keep my eye out for one to buy when I save up a little $$$.

John UK, I'll look over the check chains, but I'm pretty sure there's slack in them when the arms are up and down.

This is such a great forum, thanks for setting a new tractor guy on the right path.
BillL

I might be able to stop in on my way thru soon. Weather permitting huh?
Email me your number thru here.

I got your email, in a few days we'll see how much water we can plow under!
I hope my armadillo didn't eat his life preserver while I was gone... I worry about him in weather like this....

as time goes by and you do more plowing
look at this one bottom plow, it has a longer landslide, the longer the landslide, will help stabilize the plow as it goes down the furrow,

the dirt tuning over to the right pushes the plow to the left, the longer the landslide, it lays in the furrow and stops this left push, keeping the plow running true or straight.

also I noted: as you lifted your plow with the stabilizer bar in place, the plow was shifted to the right side.
_______________________________
the under fender axle bracket pin that your stabilizer bar attaches too under the axle.

the pins on the stabilizer bracket (MUST, MUST) be mounted directly across from the pins that your lift arms are attached to under the belly of the tractor.

if not, each time you raise and lower the implement the arms will move to the left or right.
check it out.

this should be fixed for normal operation of the tractor,

however as others have said, you should not use a stabilizer bar when plowing, if the plow is set up right and has all the necessary guide equipment in place, it will follow your tractor like a puppy.

keep working with the plow you will get it right.

I also included a picture of my old plow, it may be hard to see but it has a small guide wheel at the back of the plow, that is its job to help guide the plow and press against the furrow wall.