New guy/Ferguson TO20 ?

swampdrummer

New User
HI Folks,
New guy on the block. Going to look at a 1950 TO 20 saturday and wondered if there was anything particular to these tractors to watch out for.
I talked to the owner today and he said that the oil pressure at idle was 15-20 psi but couldn't give me any running or hot pressures.
Hydraulics are said to be good with no leaks.
6 Volt system with new wiring. ( would most likely change over to 12V)
Recent engine rebuild and new paint.

I've looked at a few Ford 9N and 8Ns recently and I've found that some of the "rebuilds" have been not much more than new paint. Kind of like putting lipstick on a pig! :wink:

I live on 20 wooded acres and will most likely be doing some brush hogging and putting in a few small food plots for deer.
Thanks!
Brad
 
Hopefully you can drive it around some and and while you do lift and lower the hydraulics. After shutting it off check the hydraulic oil on right side and the engine oil neither one should be milky. As long as the electrics are working I don't see much sense in changing to 12v at least until the generator or other electrical parts give out. If you hook up a bush hog make sure you put a over-riding clutch on it. As I remember the oil pressure at working should be 27 pounds max. so that 20 PSI Idle sounds really decent. If you decide to get it ask the owner if he has any manuals for that TO 20. That would save a few bucks if he has them and lets them go with it. Does he have and implements for it?
 
raise three point with engine running and pto engaged. stand on lift arms. if the lift arms drop down as soon as the eng is off the tractor a hyd problem. pto has to be engaged for hyd. to work on a to-20.
 
Oil pressure is easy enough to check with his dash gauge. Start the engine cold.
That is your cold pressure. Run for 20 minutes. That, if the machine has a
thermostat, should get it to normal operating temp. Oil pressure is what at idle?
How much at 1500 RPM? Congrats. You now have your three numbers. Oil pressure drops
off to about 6 PSI at idle and a rebuild is not far away.
12V change over is a fair consideration IF the 6V has failed at some point.
Generally the generator point. Genny and regs should be changes at the same time.
That is just a general rule I use based on old cars I have driven and done the
repair twice for failed electrical system.
Other than that the 6V should last just fine.
OH CLAP! You got a dead battery and no 6V jumper...Now what?
Jumper cables from the 12V car/truck. Pos goes to the foot peg. Key on, out of gear.
OUT OF GEAR. 1/3 throttle, other hand on choke.Neg cable to the starter lug. Look!
It cranks, It starts! It runs!!
Congrats! You jumped your 6V with 12V.
 

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