TO35 Ferguson Changing Transmission and Hydraulic oil

textazz

New User
This TO35 use to be my Dad's tractor. I pulled the hydraulic drip stick and it had lots of rust on it. I don't a manual on the tractor. I'm thinking water as gotten into the transmission or hydraulic system. I'm thinking I need to drain the oil and replace it. How do I go about draining the oil and opening up the system to clean it out? Also what type of oil do I need to add back.

Thanks

Philip
 
To drain the oil look underneath the tractor, there is a drain plug under the center housing and one under the transmission. Be sure to have enough containers ready to catch the oil or you will have a big mess.

Some guys have been known to fill the transmission with diesel fuel and drive the tractor around to clean out the transmission. Do not drive it very far as the gears and seals need lubrication. If you have multi power do not follow this procedure at all.

The places to access the transmission and rear end for cleaning are the opening below the steering column and the three point lift cover. Remove both of these to clean out by hand or to steam clean.
 
Would be best if you could get the tractor hot like plowing etc, then drain the oil, but guess that out this time of the year,

6 to 8 gals are going to drain out so be prepared for that volume of used oil

I would go back with something like 15w40 oil, you will get many options on what oil to use,
I filled my TO35 with 90 weight mineral oil GL-1, but this oil is very thick in the winter, lift will be slow to work,

If you do add a cleaner you will want to drain the sump a couple of times to get that kerosene out before you add your final oil.
 
You may have a lot of water in there....or almost none. Certain atmospheric conditions will allow condensation on something like a dipstick and being high in oxygen, this bit of condensation will rust dipsticks overnight. Check the color of the oil. It should be kind of brownish. If it is black, it has water in it. Grey means more water, white means lots.

If the oil looks like new oil, loosen the drain plug. Any water settled out will be there and drip out first. If it is only a few drops before the oil comes, tighten it back up and quit worrying.

If the oil looks grey or white, change it immediately.
 
One place to be sure to check shifter boots. If they are cracked or missing and not in good shape, water will leak into your transmission.
 
One place to be sure to check is shifter boots. If they are cracked or missing and not in good shape, water will leak into your transmission.
 
The 15w40 engine oil is a popular replacement. The factory called for 90 weight mineral oil, but that will put the lift in slow motion in cold weather. It will hold 8 gallons, refill through the top plug bu the shifter. Be sure to pour it slowly, put in a gallon or so, wait for it to transfer back to the rear cases. Put it in too fast and it will come out the front seal and oil the clutch! Be careful not to overfill, it fills to the bottom bolt of the round inspection covers below the seat. Too much and it will get on the brake shoes.
 
See how much crud is in the bottom I just cleaned a TO 30 by removing the PTO, the side covers and the hydraulic pump and it was not easy but it is clean now.
 

I live in the south so we don't get that cold in the winter.

As for the oil 10W45 motor oil works for the transmission and hydraulic oil?

I'll check all of the boots and seals that were suggested. I'm pretty sure they will need to be replace.

Appreciate all of the replies and suggestions.

One other issue. I'm to get the tractor to stay running. I'm having to keep the choke trimmed almost close. Any suggestions what the cause would be?
 
most times if it runs better with the choke closed, the carb is stopped up

you would not get my old TO35 to run by pulling out the choke, it would smother out quick

I have to use the choke to help get it to fire off on a cold morning, but after that the choke is not needed.
 
The transmission and hydraulic are all one reservoir. The hyd pump in in the bottom of the case between the trans and rear housing, all share the same oil.

As for the carb issue, try adjusting the mixture screws. If that is a Marvel Schebeler, the idle mix, the small screw close to the top, sets at 1/2 to 1 turn out. Note, the idle screw regulates idle air bleed, not fuel, so turning it in richens the mix, out leans it.

The main jet sets at 1 to 1 1/4 turns out. Adjust both with engine fully warm. Once the idle is set for best idle, the main can be adjusted by bringing the engine down to idle, then quickly opening the throttle. It should take throttle without hesitation. A puff of black smoke is a good indicator.

If it still requires choke to run, the carb will need to come apart and be cleaned. They are simple, don't be afraid of it. Also check the fuel tank for rust contamination. Be sure the sediment bowl screen is in place. A rusty, dirty tank will continue to give problems. Cleaning it will usually start leaks. Unless it's been replaced, or has had a very sheltered life, a new tank is probably in the future.
 
In the south you can use the GL-1 mineral oil for the tranny and hydraulics if you wish, not GL-3 or GL-5 however. Tractor Supply and NAPA
carry it.
 
I use GL-1 up North because after letting the tractor warm up for five minutes while I finish getting around the unit is ready to operate with no problem. I would not start the tractor and immediately take off in the winter anyway.
 

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