1955 TO35 Flywheel

soccertoad20

New User
I just replaced my entire clutch assembly on my '55 TO35. We got the tractor back together and the clutch lever didn't have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. We adjusted it to the max and still not enough. We noticed the flywheel had been turned down and it must have been too much. We had to use the old clutch disk (didn't seem to have very much wear) because the new disk was catching on the studs that held the flywheel on. The old disk had the center rivet things ground down a little to clear the studs. Basically I need to get a new flywheel. I can't seem to find one. All I can find is the flywheel ring gear. Can anyone help find the entire flywheel assembly?
 
I have the earlier stamped clutch design so make sure the flywheel assembly is for this clutch design. I was told by the local massey dealer that the newer clutch design for the TO35 had a different flywheel design.
 
A flywheel is just a flat disc. You would probably have to grind off about 1/4 to 1/2 inch for the
clutch not to work. Just curious, what are the chances:
1) The clutch disc is in backwards? (the most common mistake)
2) The clutch release plate fingers are at the wrong adjustment?
I would tend to go with the clutch disc in with the wrong side towards the engine. As for the clutch
plate, I have seen one of those with loose adjustment screws.
Just my 2 cents.
 
Do you have a two stage clutch or single stage clutch? I have both flywheels in stock on the shelf and ready to ship.
 
We looked at the flywheel. Someone turned down the face that the clutch plate touches at least .300-.400". It was easy to tell. I have a brand new clutch plate. Either way we tried it the studs that holds the flywheel in place would hit the rivets on the clutch plate. The old clutch plate had the rivets ground down enough so they wouldn't hit. We kept the old clutch plate in and put the new pressure plate, pilot bearing, and release bearing. Put the whole tractor back together and we couldn't get the clutch lever to have enough travel to release the clutch. Oh, and yes the pressure plate was checked. The adjustment bolts were at .090" clearance like they should be.

I have a dual stage clutch, the early belleville spring clutch design. My massey is a 1955. I was told by the massey dealer there is a difference in the flywheel for the two different dual stage clutch designs.
 
(quoted from post at 15:50:08 11/29/15) We looked at the flywheel. Someone turned down the face that the clutch plate touches at least .300-.400". It was easy to tell. I have a brand new clutch plate. Either way we tried it the studs that holds the flywheel in place would hit the rivets on the clutch plate. The old clutch plate had the rivets ground down enough so they wouldn't hit. We kept the old clutch plate in and put the new pressure plate, pilot bearing, and release bearing. Put the whole tractor back together and we couldn't get the clutch lever to have enough travel to release the clutch. Oh, and yes the pressure plate was checked. The adjustment bolts were at .090" clearance like they should be.

I have a dual stage clutch, the early belleville spring clutch design. My massey is a 1955. I was told by the massey dealer there is a difference in the flywheel for the two different dual stage clutch designs.

The correct clutch is available. 182463M93 is the part number for tractors prior 177395 and also tractors 177520 thru 177537. The Sparex number for that clutch is S.73027.
 
Hi
Sounds like you are buying the flywheel out of your choice anyway. But an old school mechanic and engineer trick i was taught is. if things are
getting close like yours did, if you machine the clutch surface of the flywheel. You then take the same from the face the crank bolts fit onto. this
will then move the bolt heads further in. I fix a lot of Belarus tractors and guys don't want to by new flywheels. some are way to far gone or already
machined past the max I'm comfortable with, they get replaced. I bet in the last 15 years I've done about 30 that got machined. Sometimes I have even
turned the domed heads off the bolts, to make sure. Some Belarus's had flat top bolts anyway so thats not a problem. The last MF industrial i did
there was no replacement flywheel so it was machined, we had to turn 1/8th" off the shaft boss in the disc and alter the pilot bearing housing a
1/16th" to give enough clearance's to make sure it all stayed working when the ceramic disc ate the flywheel again, as the guys rode the clutch as
they were to cheap to fix the brakes!. The fun of running a shop and cheap customers L.O.L.
Regards Robert
 
We got the tractor all fixed up and running this past Saturday. We figured out a few things. First someone really did a cob-job on this tractor clutch. Like I mentioned before the whole clutch assembly was jerry-rigged to make it work. Getting the new flywheel that was not machined fixed the issue with my clutch lever not having enough travel to disengage the clutch. When we were taking the nuts off the studs that hold the flywheel onto the camshaft one of the studs came out with it. It was then that we realized someone put the studs in backwards. The threads are different lengths on each side. The longer side was sticking out which was making it hit the clutch plate. We flipped them around and it was a huge difference, probably 1/4" at least. Once we found that out everything else went pretty smooth. The clutch lever is much stiffer now probably because of the new springs in the pressure plate. It looks like the clutch has been fixed.
 

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