1953 Tea20

I am having trouble obtaining the correct spec for this tractor engine. I have tore it apart and it has .010 over sized rod bearings. When the crank is miked I get 2.073. I could use some help to find out what the original crank was turned at. And where is a good place to find torque specs when I start to reassemble.
what is the size motor displacement. The original tractor colour was red.

The specifications in the Ferguson factory manual show that the crank journals for a 1953 TEA20 would have been between 2.4790 and 2.4795 ins. or 62.967 and 62.979 mm.
The 85mm engine is 2088cc or 127.4 cu. ins. ,it has a compression ratio of 6:1.
Torque is as follows , head nuts 60/65 ft lbs , main bearing nuts 80/85 ft lbs ,big end nuts 50/55 ftlbs , flywheel cap screws 42/46 ft lbs .
The red you have found is most likely to be oxide primer , all TEAs left the factory in Grey . Many were painted red again to 'modernise ' them , otherwise apart from a few Industrial models grey is the original and first colour for them all .

FERGUSON SERVICE MANUAL:
TEA-20:
ENGINE: 85 MM Bore X 92 MM Stroke:

CRANKSHAFT JOURNAL DIAM. STANDARD:
2.4795 >2.4790 INCHES:

CONN. ROD. JOURNAL DIAM (CRANK END) STANDARD:
1.7507>1.7498 INCHES:

Info you may require:
As you are into the heart of the timing area you may decide to replace the SPROCKETS and CHAIN. Better now than to have trouble down the road!
1) 85 MM Bore Engine:
2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:
(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:
(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:
(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:
(6)There are NO timing MARKES on the NEW Sprockets. You may whish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:
(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR hols in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four hols and all teeth line up. These hols are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:
It's good practise to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft):
Cheers
Bob...