Replacing Rear Tire

rkeving

New User
My right rear wheel went flat and was horribly dry rotted. Luckily, I found a decent replacement on CL, already mounted to a 28" 6 loop rim.

I removed the bad rear tire/wheel/all from the tractor, and managed to remove the nuts holding the inner wheel to the rim.

Now I'm trying to figure out how those 6 bolts come out of the inner wheel and the rim loops. Are they threaded, or can I just tap them back through with a hammer?

The new rim/tire has the square loops. I'm hoping I don't run into any issues remounting the inner wheel to it, but will buy new bolts if needed.

Thanks in advance.
 

Sorry, new to this posting stuff. I forgot to mention this is on a 1953 TO30. I believe the tire that I took off was original.

TIA.
 
This is what's on my Ferguson.
Remove # 21 (6)
Spray Penetrant (your choice) on Items # 20
With a drift SMALLER (BRASS) than the diam. of the bolts (# 20) drive bolts out with hammer.
Bob...
a204378.jpg
 

Thanks. I assumed that this was going to be the method, but before I messed something up, I figured it better to ask.

The outside of the wheel has been painted about 3 million times, so I couldn't rule out if they were threaded or not 100%.

Will get it soaking and give it a try.

Thanks again.
 

By the way, what book did you get that illustration from? I have a service manual that covers about everything, but couldn't find anything about changing tires or removing wheels.

TIA.
 
(quoted from post at 13:27:04 10/27/15) My right rear wheel went flat and was horribly dry rotted. Luckily, I found a decent replacement on CL, already mounted to a 28" 6 loop rim.

I removed the bad rear tire/wheel/all from the tractor, and managed to remove the nuts holding the inner wheel to the rim.

Now I'm trying to figure out how those 6 bolts come out of the inner wheel and the rim loops. Are they threaded, or can I just tap them back through with a hammer?

The new rim/tire has the square loops. I'm hoping I don't run into any issues remounting the inner wheel to it, but will buy new bolts if needed.

Thanks in advance.
John Deere D is exactly right. (I went through the same thing a few years ago.)

If your new rim has "square" loops, you'll need new carriage bolts for your new rim.

If your old rim is original, it probably has "round" loops, and probably also has "pipped-head" bolts, which won't work with the "square" loops.

New pipped-head bolts have wrench flats, so you can hold them with an 11/16" wrench, but I don't think the old bolts did.

The "square" loops are meant to be used with carriage bolts.
 

Thanks. I will get new carriage bolts to replace these.

So far, I have 5 out. Last one does not want to cooperate. More penetrating oil, then some more pounding. It will go eventually.

Appreciate all the help.
 
(quoted from post at 15:12:11 10/27/15)
So far, I have 5 out. Last one does not want to cooperate.
There's always one!

Do the old bolt heads have flats, or are they completely round? Mine were so rusted that it was hard to tell, and it was hard to see the "pips" - they were just being held in by rust.
 

It looks like there are flats on the sides of the heads of the bolts. I don't see any "pips"- they look round, just a ton of rust.

I got the inner wheel off, even though I did not get the last bolt out. I think I'm going to buy new bolts in any case. No sense going this far and wishing I spent another few bucks for new bolts. Also, going to wire brush the hub out and repaint it. Easier now than ever.

Do you have any idea on the size of the carriage bolts I need? I will do some internet surfing and if nothing else use one of the old ones for a starting point.
 
(quoted from post at 15:38:40 10/27/15)
It looks like there are flats on the sides of the heads of the bolts. I don't see any "pips"- they look round, just a ton of rust.

I got the inner wheel off, even though I did not get the last bolt out. I think I'm going to buy new bolts in any case. No sense going this far and wishing I spent another few bucks for new bolts. Also, going to wire brush the hub out and repaint it. Easier now than ever.

Do you have any idea on the size of the carriage bolts I need? I will do some internet surfing and if nothing else use one of the old ones for a starting point.
This site has what should be the correct carriage bolt:
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-2N_Rear-Rim-Carriage-Head-Bolt-and-Nut_HB250.html

5/8" x 2 1/2" long. (Check the length to be sure - that sounds a little short.)

The "correct" bolts are supposed to be fine thread. The tractor parts websites, like YT and others, have fine thread, but the local hardware store probably won't. I've read that folks used coarse-threaded galvanized carriage bolts.

Here's what pipped-head bolts look like:
29421.jpg


I had my old rims (with round loops) repaired, and used new pipped-head bolts, as my "pips" had rusted off, too. (Ouch!)
 
Yep, now that I see what you're talking about, mine are pipped.

Thanks for the link on the right bolts. Will get some ordered up and get my tractor back in order.

Thanks for all the help. Greatly appreciated.
 
This is the MANUAL you inquired about.
I own and operate a MF 35 X as well as a TEA-20 FERGUSON and own several TEA-20 PARTS Tractors.
This PARTS Catalogue covers both the USA and ENGLISH made TRACTORS
I purchased this PARTS Catalogue from e-bay......
Bob...
a204407.jpg

a204408.jpg
 
You can use the pipped heads in the square loops. If you have to get another person to hold the wrench on the flat heads while you screw on the nut. No big deal.
 

This was going to be my first course of action (yep, I'm el cheapo). But after seeing the condition of the bolts coming out (rust), spending a few dollars for new ones isn't going to be a big deal.

John Deere: Thanks for the manual info. I will be keeping an eye out for one of those to add to my reference library.
 

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