Temp Gauge Sensor touches far side of metal coolant housing

Installed the Universal Temp Gauge from this web site. Notice while installing that the sensor bulb went clear through the coolant tube that goes from the engine to the radiator hose and touched the other side.
Temp gauge only reads 135 after the thermostat opens up.
Anybody else have this problem and have a fix?
I'm thinking of adding a little gasket material to bring the sensor bulb out a little so as not to touch the metal housing.
I do have the right thermostat.
I'll take the radiator temp as soon as I get an infared thermometer home from work.
But I'm pretty sure the coolant is hotter than 135.
Thanks
 
If it pushed hard enough to change the shape of the bulb, it may have changed the calibration, or being aftermarket it may not have been right from the beginning. Might want to check it before putting it back in.
 
Are you working on a TO-20/30, Bill?

Much like yours, the temperature gauge on my TO-20 never reads much above 130F.

The gauge tested good when I dunked the probe in a cup of boiling water, but it didn't occur to me that the trouble was that the probe extended too far into the gooseneck.

Do you think gasket material would work? Or would it take a different bushing/adapter?
 
On my TO20, I used a long burr on a die grinder to relieve the inside of the neck just enough to get a tiny bit of clearance. Probably didn't remove over 1/16" of material, and that neck's pretty thick.
BillL
 
Just got done running around to the various part stores around here.
No one had an extender (granted, that would be a very special piece. If someone was good with a lathe and some brass.... but not me)
They didn't even have O rings. Their O ring boxes were sold out of the small stuff. geesh.
Anyhow, I did get some interesting info. These universal temp gauges are made to go in the engine block. So temp gauge bulb length is not a problem.
Tomorrow I will go to the hardware store and see what I can cobble up.
I did stick the gauge in the oven and it was within 25 deg. I guess that's good enough for who it's for :)
Thanks for the replies.
I like the burr idea. Does your gauge read correctly ?
 
Tom, I have a TO30.
I was going to cut some rubber gasket to fit in there but a pipe fitter at work recommended an O ring for a better seal.
One parts store guy thought the anti-freeze would eat the seal but admitted the green anti-freeze is not as bad as the new orange stuff.
Guess I won't know till I try.
 
On my TO20 I spaced my bulb out 1/4 inch or so with copper tubing.
I did this 40 years, nowadays you just purchase a shorter bulb temp gauge.
Should be info in the archives.
 
Bill do you have the spacer? When I tried to put my bulb in that spot it hit the other side like yours. Once I found the spacer it fit in perfectly. I have two other pictures I can send you if you send me your email. My mail box is open on the Classic View.
 
Sorry the picture did not come through the first time.
a203722.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:57:25 10/20/15) Sorry the picture did not come through the first time.
a203722.jpg
Wow
That's exactly what I need !!!! Is that what you are call the spacer? If so, I do not have that. Did that come with your gauge or was that on the tractor?
 
Calibrate the gauge by sticking it into a pan of boiling water. At sea level( 29.92 in HGA barometric pressure) water boils at 212?F. Then see what the gauge reads.
 
I found mine on ebay. I had to buy the whole waterneck just to get that, what I call a spacer. They never were put on a TO 20/30 as the tractors never left factory with a temp. gauge. It does have a copper washer on small end. Don't know if a hardware store would have anything like this or not.
 
I rarely bother with such things. I use cans of Canadian or Mexican beer on the engine. If I have to blow on it before taking a sip, the engine is too hot. Tasty and smooth, engine is at normal temp. If my lips freeze to the can, time to go south.

Remember Murphy's law verse 14- the easiest way to break something is to fix something that ain't broke. Everyone has an opinion of what is a normal temp, but 135 sounds good to me.

A cooking/meat thermometer to double check the 'range' is easiest test. But if it is on the left when cool, and to the right when really hot- like if the t'stat didn't open at all? Then the gauge is working just fine.
Don't invent anything that may loosen up while working away from the shop, or you will have a worse problem.
 
Then the gauge is working properly. Even without a thermostat the coolant should get to ~ 150?F. Do you have a thermostat? If you do, is it stuck open?
 
Tony In Mass probably has it right. Curiousity killed the cat and all that.
Well, we'll see if I set myself up for problems down the road.
Could not find an extender like Richard shows.
Bought a couple of O rings to keep the bulb out a ways, added permatex, put it all back together.... no leaks !!!!!
Got fergy warmed up, took her for a ride.... the temp shows a little higher..... 140-150 :)
Got the infared thermometer out. It says the gooseneck is about 140 :)
Guess she just runs a little cool. At least I won't be worried about it now.
Thanks everyone for the help. It was sort of fun messing with it. Fortunately I didn't break anything in the process.
 
For your information...The British TE and the TEF (Diesel) and even the FE35 diesels did not have temp gauges! However you want one, and it is giving bother!...If it needs so little to give clearance then why not use a dowty washer? I'm sure you
have them over there? Used on hydraulic fittings, they are a steel washer with a rubber centre or seal...the idea being they are like an 'O' ring but with an outer steel shell to keep the ring from blowing!
Sam
 

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