TO-35/MF35/Continental Easy Manifold ON/OFF Fix

Jarhead_1981 · Oct 21, 2015

While searching for a valve adjustment answer I noticed a few posts about how hard it is to remove the manifold on a 35 gas engine I came up with an easy fix. Buy qty(8) Grade 8 Allen head cap bolts 3/8"-16 x 1 1/2" with lock washers. Buy a set of 6" long, or longer ratchet attachment Allen wrenches . Remove the studs from the head. I had so little clearance between the nuts and the manifold I had to use a small chisel and hammer to rotate the nuts. Clean out the threaded holes with a tap, oil and compressed air to make sure the bolts can go all of the way in. Use the cap bolts to re-attach the manifold. You find that the Allen wrench easily goes straight in and there is no longer an issue of the side clearances between the nuts and the manifold.

Tony in Mass. · Oct 21, 2015

That's a pretty good idea! Now you have to invent an easy way to torque the headbolts in that ledge next to the spark plugs

john[mo] · Oct 21, 2015

put anti-seize on your bolts and the job will be complete.

maxwell99 · Oct 21, 2015

Hope it works,

Never understood why they designed the exhaust manifold with the outlet in the rear
corner.

About the second time I had that upright exhaust pipe hit a branch, it cracked the
corner off the manifold.

I replaced the exhaust manifold and when back with an underbelly exhaust pipe.

Less noise, I never use my tractor anymore in corn fields. Fire issues can be a problem
with under belly mufflers.

So far so good.

Grandfatherjim · Oct 21, 2015

I like these kind of upgrades, because it means I need to buy a new tool, which is always a good thing.
Is that manifold new, or have you painted it with POR15 or something? Mine doesn't quite look like that.

Tom Bowman · Oct 21, 2015

Looks good, Jarhead. Where did you find those bolts?

And, Tony: Fergy Head Bolts + Outrageously Expensive Torque Wrench Adapter = Piece of Cake! :wink: (At least, for those of us who can't fabricate our own tool for that little task!)

wellmax99 · Oct 21, 2015

I still have some concerns about it leaking coolant.

I did have a few of the stud bolts come out of the head as it took the old manifold off. I reinstalled them and put sealant around the threads as I reinstalled them into the head.

(you can have a leak at this point).

I then used anti seize on the threads of the studs where the nuts were going to screwed down on the manifold.

it was a bit squirrely getting all the nuts tight to proper torque.

I bought one of those open ended wrenches that has a square drive, that helped some.
also reformed a couple of cheap wrenches, but it all worked out, so far so good.

Jarhead_1981 · Oct 21, 2015

OK. I just did and it works! Take a cheap 7/8" combination wrench and and 11/16" combination wrench and cut off the open end parts of each. Weld them together as shown in my photo. Don't criticize my crappy weld job, I was in a hurry and shaking with too much coffee! Buy a 1/2"-> 3/4 ratchet adapter.
Insert the adapter into the 7/8" end and use the other end on the nuts. BUT, BECAUSE YOU ARE ADDING LENGTH TO THE LEVER. YOU HAVE TO CALIBRATE THIS TOOL. Torque a head bolt on top to the prescribed torque with just a torque wrench then attach the tool and see what torque it takes to move it again. An 80 ft/lbs torqued bolt requires only 61 ft/lbs with mine. It will vary on the length that you make it and whether or not you have the torque wrench perfectly straight in relation to the homemade tool.

Jarhead_1981 · Oct 21, 2015

I changed mine to upright because my right boot sole was always melting.

Jarhead_1981 · Oct 21, 2015

Fastenal.com

Tom Bowman · Oct 21, 2015

Hey, Jarhead, if it works, that's all that matters.

Hint: keep the extension at a 90-degree angle to the torque wrench, and you won't need to re-calibrate. (You can confirm that with the formula.)

Here's my "store-bought" torque adapter thread from a couple of years ago: http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ferg&th=109851

Thanks for the Fastenal info. If I ever need to take off the manifold, I'm going to do the same thing.

Jarhead_1981 · Oct 21, 2015

It seems like if you have coolant coming out of one of those holes the were either over-drilled or you have a cracked head. I just went and inspected mine with a flashlight and with 150 psi air and there are no entries to the water jacket on mine.

maxwell99 · Oct 22, 2015

Jar, if there are is no entry to the water jacket on yours, then there is no entry to
the water jacket on mine,

I was just concerned about it as my mechanic skills are few.

My normal repair project policy is as follows: if it can go bad, it will!!!!!

As long as there are no concerns about water leaking, wonder why the original builders
did not attach the manifolds with those type bolts back in the day. Those bolts appear
to make it much easier to 're assembled the manifold, good idea.

Cause trying to get some of those nuts tight on the studs was a pain

2tractors · Oct 22, 2015

Looks like stem caps on all of the valves. First one I've seen like that! Good job on manifold. Fastenal has better
prices on bolts than Tractor Supply.

TO-35/MF35/Continental Easy Manifold ON/OFF Fix

Jarhead_1981

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Tony in Mass.

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john[mo]

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maxwell99

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Grandfatherjim

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Tom Bowman

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wellmax99

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Jarhead_1981

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Jarhead_1981

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Jarhead_1981

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Tom Bowman

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Jarhead_1981

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maxwell99

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2tractors

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