bad spark in my TO-30

wharenj · Oct 14, 2015

I am able to get spark by grounding the plug and turning the engine but when the plugs are in there is little to no spark. I am aware that under pressure a weak spark won't jump. Is there something else I'm missing?

wharenj · Oct 14, 2015

It is still the 6v system.

Steve@Advance · Oct 14, 2015

Check the voltage at the coil (on the ignition switch side of the coil) with an analog meter. Temporarily ground the point side of the coil and check the voltage. It should be close to battery voltage. Then check the voltage with the plugs in, while cranking. If it drops below around 3 volts, there isn't enough power left from the starter to fire the coil.

Move the volt meter to the battery posts, check it again while cranking. If the voltage is good across the battery, 4v or more, there is a high resistance problem, dirty/loose connection, too small cables, etc.

If the voltage is low across the battery, the battery could be low or bad, or the starter is puling too many amps. Have the battery load tested if in doubt.

If the cables are heating up, either they are too small, (need 00 ga. for 6 volt), or the starter is dragging, needs bushings. Open up the starter, look for evidence of the armature dragging the inside of the field windings.

Another trick is to hold the clutch down when cranking, especially in cold weather, gets the load of the transmission off the starter.

wharenj · Oct 14, 2015

I was talking to a mechanic today at my not so local MF dealer. One tip/suggestion he gave me was to adjust the distributor because of wear. I got home and advanced the distributor a bit and it fired right up. Now I just need to find out why it keeps shutting off while I am using it.

wharenj · Oct 21, 2015

What would cause points to keep crapping up so as to stop being able to function? I thought it was my coil that kept overheating and stop working, causing the tractor to shut down. Turns out the points are the culprit. I run some 320 grit paper between them and I have spark again.

Charles in Aus. · Oct 21, 2015

Points burning out quickly is usually down to a faulty condensor . Even new ones can be bad from the start , try to get a nos one if you can , Chinese are the worst , Italian a little better , old Lucas ones made in the UK the best . There are some available from the UK on E bay that are supposed to be superior in quality .

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=simonbbc&item=110723914992&_osacat=0&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESINDXX%3AIT&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X+points+condenser.TRS0&_nkw=+points+condenser&_sacat=0

wharenj · Oct 22, 2015

Thank you for the link. Would you by chance know if there is a vehicle that uses the same set as my TO-30?

Jason S. · Oct 22, 2015

(quoted from post at 13:32:05 10/22/15) Thank you for the link. Would you by chance know if there is a vehicle that uses the same set as my TO-30?

Lots of vehicles used that set. !950-1953 Chevy Bel Air with a 3.5 six cylinder used them. Or just get you a set of Borg Warner A40V or A40H points.

wjajr · Oct 22, 2015

Another reason for points to close up is lack of lubricating the cam which opens and closes them on distributor shaft. Point set has a soft contact material for which I can't come up with a name that rides said cam, if cam is dry or corroded this material will erode away that soft rider and reduce point gap rather quickly. The Fix: Coat cam with a light smear (too much will pollute point surface causing burnt mess and poor conduction of electrons, less is more in this case) of dielectric grease, reset gap of points if they have closed up.

bad spark in my TO-30

wharenj

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Steve@Advance

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Charles in Aus.

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