changing govenor

Hi all. I want to change the govenor weights and cup on a te20. Need to remove the timing cover to do this and figured I would replace the timing chain at the same time. Question is, do I have to remive the whole front axle to do this? Looking at it, it looks as though I have to remove axle, pan, crank pulley etc to get access to timing cover. Is this correct or am I missing an easier way?

Thank

Steve

Axle off , but it isn't hard and will give you the access you need . Chain change is a good idea , weights wear a lot and break at times so that's a good idea as well . Examine the chain sprocket as well , if it has sharp points to the teeth it is probably worn and will need replacing as well .

Make sure to put a thick strong board under the alloy sump to spread the load and avoid a jack punching through it .

Thanks! Any tips for removing crank pulley nut?

(quoted from post at 08:54:43 10/11/15) Hi all. I want to change the govenor weights and cup on a te20. Need to remove the timing cover to do this and figured I would replace the timing chain at the same time. Question is, do I have to remive the whole front axle to do this? Looking at it, it looks as though I have to remove axle, pan, crank pulley etc to get access to timing cover. Is this correct or am I missing an easier way?

Thank

Steve

Click to expand...

A TE-20 has the Continental Z120 engine which has timing gears. No chain. A TEA-20 has the Standard engine which uses a chain.

Thanks. It's a ted20 in fact. Standard engine. Has a
chain.

INFO used if SPROCKETS and CHAIN are replaced:
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:

(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:

(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:

(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:

(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:

(6)There are NO timing MARKS on the NEW Sprockets. You may whish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:

(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR holes in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four holes and all teeth line up. These holes are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:

(8) It's good practise to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft:

Cheers:
Bob...

Item:
First PIC.
26...Timing Chain.........825 199 M1

25...Cam Shaft Sprocket..825 135 M1

24...Crankshaft Sprocket..825 136 M1

32..Cover gasket..........825 649 M1
Second PIC.
33..Cup Assembly, Governor, w/weight .........825 157 M91

Assuming it's as original, (not welded, etc.) you can brace a long handled wrench against the floor or something and momentarily hit the starter. There is more than enough torque to unseat the nut. Don't be where the wrench can hit you or something valuable. Remember the crank turns clockwise when the engine cranks. The nut, as a consequence, unscrews as if it was being turned counterclockwise by the wrench, relatively speaking.

Don't do this if your pistons could hit the valves with the timing chain off.

An impact wrench would work too.