TO 30 oil filter assembly parts question

TO 30 parked since 2000:

After removing old oil filter cartage, observing it was very unused clean except for the lower portion that was sitting in a pool of sludge caused me to think oil was not passing through filter.

After factory parts book, it appears that a spacer is missing listed in blowup as number 56 181728 M1 that is first on center shaft followed by a washer no. 55 1008251 M1which I may have if it is a black neoprene like material, and a gasket No 53 1006594 M1 that seals the bolt that holds the cover on.

Where could I get these parts, 56 and 53, new or used?

Also because of the side arms that are part of front bucket preventing one to position one's head for a look see into empty canister leaves me puzzled as to how the oil enters filter. There seams to be no holes in center tube which cover bolt screws into, and filter I got from FM dealer has no perforations at its ends. Looks as if oil should flow into center of filter, then forced under pressure to out side of filter, collected in canister until is runs back to sump by gravity.

INFO from Ferguson TO 30 parts Book........possibly different than yours?
Hope these pics. assist you.
Bob...

Different illustration numbers used on the on line site M F dealer suggested to use. Your illustration is much clearer. Here is the number translation my numbers to your illustration:
56 shown as 26 spacer
55 shown as 25 washer
53 shown as 23 washer between bolt & cover

Due to the not so dirty filter I removed, and the sludge found in bottom of canister prompted dropping the oil pan finding more sludge and real black nasty oil that needed cleaning, and some pan bottom reshaping.

This morning off came the valve cover, discovered lots of rust, baked on oil, and a few beads of moisture. Rocker assembly was completely corroded, and caked with rust and crap, as well as inner surfaces of valve cover. This presented very bad situation; how to clean all that rusty grit clinging to every surface without it all landing on top of the lifters.






I pulled the push rods, keeping them organized in order the were removed, than started to figure out how to plug the eight push rod holes in a way to be solvent & compressed air resistant while cleaning said head.

I ended up cutting eight 2.5 to 3 inch lengths of fuel line that was just shy of diameter of hole, greased up the fat end of a golf tee with a dab of dielectric grease pushed tee through hose so its widest end was about half an inch form popping out. This combo provided a tapered rubber plug which could not pass anything to lifter valley.




Rocker assembly was removed, its parts loosened up, than disassembled for cleaning, freeing of lash adjustment nuts, oil passages cleaned, and the whole thing reassembled. It showed signs of oil starvation and overheating, I think, due to low oil pressure from filter missing parts.

Before.


After.




Now to locate the missing spacer so top end gets some oil flow.

wj,
I may be way off base here talking about the oil filter on a T030.

I have an old TO-35, the canister oil filter on my tractor set up is as follows:
oil filter, then flat washer, then a spring, then the canister housing. long bolt goes down through the center of the filter into the engine block.

this spring holds the oil filter up against the motor block insuring the oil must past through the oil filter, without the spring the oil would just flow around the oil filter.

these springs and washers can easily be dropped into the used oil container when changing oil and never replaced.

My experience is not on the TO 30....however, whenever I have an engine in the shop that looks like yours I always question if there is and was a THERMOSTSAT used and functioning? Run an engine hot enough to keep water vapour flashing off, not accumulating. I would also question the entire grade ,viscosity and additives of the oil used in your engine?
It would appear that the impurities (moisture) is not being kept in suspension so as when the oil is changed the moisture accumulated would also drain with the oil change.
Just my take on your pictures.
Bob.....

Don't think the oil filter is related to the rockers not oiling.

The rockers oil from the rear main bearing, metered flow when the holes line up as the crank turns. The oil
then comes up through the rear rocker shaft stand, then into the hollow shaft. There are cork plugs in each
end of the shaft, be sure they are there.

If the shaft has been run dry chances are it's in bad shape. They have very close wear tolerances by the
manual, but I've seen them run with a lot of wear. If you decide it's going to need attention, best buy a
reconditioned assembly. They can be rebuilt, but it's more hassle than it's worth! The bushings have to be
pressed and reamed, the aftermarket shaft is bigger than the original, won't fit the stands... Ask how I
found all this out!

If you want to do a test on the oil flow, put the shaft back on, rough set the lifters, get it running up
to temp. Then loosen the rear stand bolt, oil should come up through the head and out around the bottom of
the stand. Not a lot, but should get some oil there. If not, something is wrong below.

BTW, nice cleaning job!

Just wondering what that spacer shown on parts blow-up is for.

(quoted from post at 16:30:10 10/07/15) TO 30 parked since 2000:

After removing old oil filter cartage, observing it was very unused clean except for the lower portion that was sitting in a pool of sludge caused me to think oil was not passing through filter.

After factory parts book, it appears that a spacer is missing listed in blowup as number 56 181728 M1 that is first on center shaft followed by a washer no. 55 1008251 M1which I may have if it is a black neoprene like material, and a gasket No 53 1006594 M1 that seals the bolt that holds the cover on.

Where could I get these parts, 56 and 53, new or used?

Also because of the side arms that are part of front bucket preventing one to position one's head for a look see into empty canister leaves me puzzled as to how the oil enters filter. There seams to be no holes in center tube which cover bolt screws into, and filter I got from FM dealer has no perforations at its ends. Looks as if oil should flow into center of filter, then forced under pressure to out side of filter, collected in canister until is runs back to sump by gravity.

Click to expand...

I'm with Steve on this one...I think you have other problems besides the oil filter. Stick the oil filter canister back on turn the motor over like it is and see if oil comes up thru the head.

My FSM has not yet arrived. I figured oil was feed from a cam or main baring to top end via a shaft mount bolt. Before mounting rocker assembly I'm going to roll the engine over with starter to see if oil flows to top end, then go from there.

This shaft has a large head hex bolt threaded into each end of rocker shaft.

Perhaps two of the rockers got hot enough to gall the babet or whatever that soft metal is called lining rocker in contact with shaft. I have all rockers now passing oil and rather slop free movement. For now I just want to fire the engine, see what other can of worms awaits this magical mystery tour.

I fully concur that engine never fully warmed up, and will check for thermostat, if found, test it, and proceed from there. This tractor was used to put-put around camp fetching wood, and performing short run time tasks which never allowed her to fully warm up to drive any moisture out of crankcase. Also side draft crank case ventilation not real efficient at ridding moisture and preventing condensation entering engine. Is there a PVC up grade available to convert these engines?

By the look of oil drained it was most likely straight 30 weight, and it was thick black & nasty. For the resurrection I'll use 10w30 for a clean out and run-in, change it & filter after a few hours and refill with same.

Now for some electrical fun today. Does FSM list conductor color and wire gage use in harness? Previous owner ran all red, 16 gage wire.

Luckily for me Ferguson used same Packard 56 brass connecters as Mopar did in my 67 Dart GT ragtop, so wont have to buy any of that stuff.

Bill

You probably won't get oil to come up just cranking the starter. It's metered flow through the rear main.

After six or more attempts to produce a little oil flow from rear rocker shaft stand, and or slight movement of oil pressure gage by rolling over engine with plugs removed the endeavor was met with disappointment.

So I installed the rocker loaded shaft, found that as usual nothing seams to go back together right the first time, I had to reconfigure arraignment of rockers correctly before it would bolt up. After a quick cold lash, I gave the starter one more long run to test for oil pressure, and the gage inched up to 20 psi. Success.

Probably a cleaning of oil pressure gage feed line would be prudent to remove any historical mung likely residing within its tiny tubing.

Now just waiting on correct carburetor rebuild kit. Carb had a brass tag stamped TSX 852, and under some crud faintly was stamped 458; you got it, I firstly ordered the 852... And so it goes in my world.