Second day with my first tractor 1953 Fergurson 30

I read several pages of this forum, encountered thoughtful well expressed answers to others problems, and decided to join up.

Below are my two newest toys neither of which runs at the moment. Ferguson is first as it has far fewer problems, and parts to be purchased to make it run. The Corn Binder will be a career move... ;~)






The situation:
New to tractors, new the their terminology, not sure just how they operate, but there is time to learn before this old girl fires up. It has been sitting in a garage since 2000 along with the green 1967 1200B IH pickup behind it. Tractor engine was lightly stuck, now rolling over, fuel system 100% gunked & varnished up the usual barn find mess. Engine hour clock shows 408 hours.


Now to the questions:

First, Fan belt needs to be replaced, it is trapped by a universal joint the joins crank shaft end to hydraulic pump drive that operates the front bucket.

To remove belt would one slide pump forward enough to disconnect U joint from crank end to allow for belt R&R, or is there more to the project?

Second, previous owner mounted a cut down 55 gallon drum to hold rocks for ballast. It is parched on draw bar utilizing a square of ply wood which barrel sits, and a length of 1/2 inch threaded rod that came in contact with a bolted cover of sorts at the back side of differential that has a square spot for a wrench. Said rod has chafed through the cast cover exposing whatever it is covering; I assume a rotating shaft or PTO... See photos below:

[i:8a8bd19490]Terminology black hole here, sorry, all I have at the moment is a 1963 TO35 owner's manual at hand that came with tractor; now that I know what I have I'll be ordering a factory service manual. [/i:8a8bd19490]

Is this part available for replacement, and will small hole cause oil loss? Current quick fix is to fill with JB Weld.





Lastly, which distributor would this be?

Welcome to the best Ferguson forum. You will find a lot of help and information here as well as the friendly ribbing.

As for your new acquisition, congrats, and what are your plans for it. First get a correct manual, the ferguson repair manual is the best not the
IT one.
The fuel tank can be cleaned with a lot of gum out and pull the carb off and get the comprehensive kit that is available here on this website.
Flush everything and do the rebuild.

I think you are correct in removing the u-joint on the hydraulic pump to replace the belt.

The pto cover is what is in the picture you posted and unscrews to reveal the pto shaft.

Please post your progress.

Best to get rid of the drum you have as a counter weight and make another . Very easy to do especially if you have or can find an old eleven hole draw bar . Get a small steel drum with lid that is as long as the ' holey ' part of the draw bar , poke a hole for the pin end of the bar into the bottom of the drum and another in the lid making sure that they are centered . Fill the drum brimming with concrete while it is standing on one end and fit the lid to ensure the bar is in the exact centre of the drum . When cured roll it onto its side , the lid may come off or you can silicon it into position and give the drum a coat of paint .
Now you have a purpose built counter weight that is very easy to hitch on and take off, doesn't need a top link , won't hurt your pto and costs nothing more than a few dollars worth of concrete . It will also save you from filling a drum full of rocks every time you want to use it :shock:

!

Post a picture of that pump shaft, there are several styles, either the rubber u joint comes apart, or the pump has to come forward an inch or 2, sometimes it's easy, sometimes....
nice chains! And yes, memorize the manuals. In the mean time, check other owners on you tube... welcome aboard!

Welcome! That's a nice looking tractor! Must have been gone through before it was parked, good looking
tires and paint.

The pump coupling, just gotta do what you gotta do to get it out of the way. Shouldn't be too hard to do.

The hole rubbed in the cover can be welded, JB welded, or the cover replaced (it's available). The cover
should be removed and the inside area cleaned. It may be filled with dirt and water, not good for the seal.
If there is oil inside the cover, the PTO seal will need to be replaced.

The distributor is a standard Delco used on that model. Those are prone to the bushing wearing, causing the
point setting to change, and the centrifugal advance to rust in place. The advance can be freed up, the
bushing replaced, or convert it to electronic if you're serious about putting it to work.

A few things you may also want to check...

Those are prone to collect water in the transmission. Gets in through condensation and around the shifter
boot. Might want to sample at the drain plugs before starting it up, see what's in there.

Look the front suspension and steering over. If it's been used with the loader, the front end has had a
real workout. They don't like loaders! Check the spindle bushings, the pivot bushing, wheel bearings.
(Hint, check all that before replacing the belt, you might be going in this area anyway.) If the steering
gear is worn, it will be even harder to steer, you'll need everything to be right to be able to use the
loader.

Check the engine oil for coolant before starting it. Those have wet sleeves, sometimes the orings leak
coolant into the oil. Look at the antifreeze, once it appears that it is going to run, might want to change
it.

If it's still 6 volt, IMHO, keep it 6 volt! Many have been changed to 12 with no problems, but it is hard
on the starter nose cone, starter gear, and can knock the ring gear off the flywheel. Keeping the generator
will keep the tach drive in place.

Hope you get it running! Let us know how it's going!

The tank's baffle is disconnected, broken off laying on bottom of tank free to slide around. Now I need to decide to get a new tank as a loose baffle wont lend itself to a good clean & seal job.

Drum is going, new POT cap has been located at an undisclosed location.

Thanks Steve,

Tractor was a whipped old heap redone in the seventies, it has been garaged every night since; 408 hours on clock is all the use it has had since I think.

I plan on looking into all the items you listed, including brush inspection and oiling of generator, greasing Bendix of starter and ring gear, cleaning and remaking all electrical connections, inspecting distributor's bushing for play and stuck governor weights, and an oil and filter change.

I'll be using tractor for moving snow drifts along our road this winter, and a few yard projects now and again.

By all means drain the rearend. Planned to drain my TO35 ( stored in unheated machine shed) in fall. But had
emergency surgery and complictions with healing. Started the old girl in mid March with clutch depressed. Engine
started and I let out clutch and heard loud crack, Hydraulic oil shot between my legs and over steering wheel from
cracked rear cover. A bit startling. Also cracked side of case. Ice still in rear end fom Illnois winter.