tea20 carb adjuster's

Hello, i am having trouble with my tea20 zenith carb. looking for correct starting adjustment's. there are three adjuster's on my carb. one towart the seat with a flat end on it to turn, one slot screwdriver adjuster on the front of carb(toward front of tractor) and then i have the knurled knob on bottom and toward front of tractor. I have had the tractor for years and messed around with them with no knowledge. Found in the forum's that the knurled knob should be 1 turn out for light work 2 out for heavy work, but not sure about the other 2. The tractor has been converted to 12 volt and has always had problems with spark plugs. If the thing won't start i replace plugs and then it runs good for a month or 2 i am going to go through and replace cap (hopefully i ordered the right one - lucas early type) the cap terminals on inside of cap are indented from use and not sure if spark is getting to all 4 correctly. i bought a 8n last year and neglected this thing for a while, because NATIONS STARTER AND ALTERNATOR SCREWED ME out of a starter. Ended up getting one off this site for another 300. Now i can get my baby back going. Thanks for response, I love this site.

Kevin.

Send me an email and I will send you the section from the Service Manual relating to Zenith carby adjustment.

I think John (UK) has an excellent information sheet on carby adjustment.

By the sound of it, you have more problems than only the carby.

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20

Yep, did have more problems, the gasket on the carb going into the manifold was blown out, i put a new gasket on and adjusted the timing and the thing started right up ---- with new plugs in it ha ha looks like the adjuster's are working now, front top is low speed back top is high speed and main or knurled one is 2 turn's out. New starter, battery, and alternator and she is purrin Next step is to take loader off of the 8N and put it on the tea, might be making some changes to the mount that attaches the pump to the crank, look's a little different. Thanks

The main jet(the knurled knob) should be open ! turn for light work and two for heavy work. The one with the screwdriver slot should be open 1 turn (approx) this will vary and you need to adjust from this point to get it running evenly. The one with the flat end is the slow running adjustment does exactly that, it adjusts the idling speed which should be 450rpm. When you do the adjustments the engine should be hot just as it would be when working, if you try to set it cooler than this you will never have any success.
Make sure that the battery is wired correctly, if it has an alternator it should be negative ground, if it has a Generator it should be wired POSITIVE ground. The coil should be wired, if you have an Alternator, the feed from the switch should go to the + or SW terminal on the coil, if you have a Generator the coil should be wired with the feed from the switch to the - terminal, if you wire it the wrong way you will not get a proper spark. As long as the cap isn"t
cracked it will be OK, they all burn on the terminals over time. You do need the correct Plugs in this engine Champion L10 or L86C set to .030" - .032",OR their proper equivalents by other manufacturers (IMPORTANT) the points should be set to .015". If the points are burning at all replace the Condenser, if it is an old condenser replace it anyway, they do get faulty after a while and it is recommended that it is changed frequently.You should NOT be having spark plug problems with this engine if you are you are maybe using the incorrect plug perhaps one"recommended" by you local supplier as suitable, any plugs that you do use need to be fully compatible with the recommended type or you will have problems, we used to get them because of that all those years ago. I can send you more written info about the Tractor if you email me at:-
fergusontractors @ tiscali.co.uk
just tell me what you need, and I will send it.Let me have the engine and serial numbers plz..John

Thanks John, yep the tractor has an alternator and is wired to pos, the alternator is a one wire alternator and only turn's on when the rpm's hit like 1500 i have the point's set to .20 and the thing is purrin now, there was a gasket problem with the carb. not sure if you saw my last post, i am in the process of putting the front loader from my 8n onto this tractor. by the way, this engine was rebuilt, the piston's are bigger, supposto have 30 horse now, which i believe because the thing will not stall even when you put it in forth gear and drop the clutch ( which i try not to do ) love this thing, the 8n has 19 horse and has a tranny that has a high and a low which is awesome. I wonder if i can swap tranny's out? i bought the 8n just for the loader, not knowing that the tranny was any different, but 1st gear is perfect for say a rototiller. the thing is running perfect now though, i took the plugs out of the 8n and it fired right up, thanks for the number's i will buy 8 of the correct plugs and i will set the gap and the points as you stated. i should be getting a new cap and condencer soon.

If the reduction box is in the Clutch housing and the lever is on the left side it will be a Sherman and it will change from the Ford to the Ferguson BUT you will not be able to have the safety start fitted as the housing inside is in the way of the linkage, they did however make these boxes to fit the Ferguson as well, so but it is slightly different on the top cover. You should not use the low ratios to pull anything heavy as it was not designed for that and something will break. It was designed to slow the tractor down for planting and rotovating only. It would seem that you have the Liners and pistons from the 35 tractor (87mm bore=30hp) which will make it more powerful but you may have problems with the mixture as the Carb may not tune correctly for that engine size now, but try it anyway. As you say try not to drop the Clutch like that or you can shear off an axle-shaft depending on which type is fitted. You need a smaller pulley on your alternator to start it charging at a lower engine speed, they may have fitted the one from the Generator when it was converted but they are too big. Good luck with it, if you need more help just email me anytime....John

(quoted from post at 20:49:00 02/15/09) Kevin.

Send me an email and I will send you the section from the Service Manual relating to Zenith carby adjustment.

I think John (UK) has an excellent information sheet on carby adjustment.

By the sound of it, you have more problems than only the carby.

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20

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Bob, I saw this posting on the forum and could I ask, could you send me a copy of the section from the service manual relating to the Zenith Carby adjustment that you offered Kevin back in 2009.
I`ve pulled my carby to pieces, cleaned it, and reassembled it.
I can`t remember what the jet settings are.
Sadly, I lost my manual to the Black Saturday bushfire
Norm

Norman

Send an email to [email protected] and I'll email the carby section from the Fergy Service Manual.

Bob in Oz

It is a bit of a time saver if you had a friend with a well running tractor just like it- if his electrical is all fine, then you'd put your carb on it, NEVER messing with the ignition on his. Then as yours is adjusted just right, put it back on your tractor and THEN see what is up with your wiring- if anything at all.
If you try to fix 2 problems at the same time, you could chase your own tail forever.....