TED20 - timing chain

jacka

Member
What is the easiest way to inspect, is my Ferguson's timing chain ok? Engine runs, but I want to know how wear (stretched) chain is... Thanks.
 
Take the distributor cap off, watch the rotor. Hand turn the crank pulley until the rotor starts to turn, then turn the crank back the other way until it begins to turn. What you are seeing is how much slop there is in the chain. You can also feel the resistance as the cam begins to turn.
Question is, how much is too much? Hard to say, but it will give you an idea, just picture in your mind what is probably going on, if you think it's enough for the chain to jump, it's time to replace it.
 
I replaced the SPROCKETS (Cam/Crankshaft) TIMING CHAIN, front oil seal and all gaskets on TEA 20 S# 105046E earlier this summer. There was no indication of any emanate problem. I done the work due to the weak point in the timing area are the pins that attach the weights to the backing plate of the governor. Last month someone on this forum had the same problem "he had no idea there was a problem" until a pin failed and one of the four governor weights jammed between the chain and the sprocket. If you DO NOT know the history of your tractor then you may own a possible very expensive lesson.
In the Ferguson archives TYPE in TEA 20 timing chain and READ!
If you change out the timing chain and sprockets pay ATTENTION. The FOUR holes on the CAM SPROCKET are NOT off centered (all holes are equally spaced )so the CAM SPROCKET can be attached to the CAM SHAFT in four different positions and you may have advanced or retarded the cam and never realised it!
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INFO you may REQUIRE
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine
(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V
A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed
(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness
(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down.
(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain.
(6)There are NO timing MARKES on the NEW Sprockets. You may whish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets.
(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR hols in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four hols and all teeth line up. These hols are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up.
(Cool It's good practise to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft)

Cheers
Bob...
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It is nice of them to have offered the cam degreeing option, but if it's been apart before (would have to assume it probably has), how would you know what set of holes to use? Does the manual cover the procedure? Or do you just split the overlap? And how important is it with such a low performance engine?

This brings back memories of the old hot rodding days, setting the cam degrees with a dial indicator and a degree wheel. Quite a procedure! LOL

Not doing one, just curious how you would know...

Thanks for the info!
 
PROCEDURE FOR TIMING OF TEA 20 (4 cylinder STANDARD ENGLISH ENGINE) IF NO TIMING MARKS ARE VISIBLE OR IF SOMEONE HAS INSTALLED TIMIMG TRAIN IMPROPERLY/
As per HARRY FERGUSON SERVICE MANUAL;
SECTION C
Pages 20&21
Items 1>10
Bob/Canada
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Thanks! So basically they just split the overlap.

Got into that a LONG time ago with a VW diesel. Went in to do routine timing belt replacement. Took the cam gear off, no mark, no key, just a taper shaft. Also no manual! (This was way before internet.) I just rocked the cam back and forth, got it in #4 overlap, set the crank at TDC, put the belt on. Worked like a champ!
 

Now I see my timing chain... It look very stretched. What else think these pictures? Do I have to change onlu chain or sprockets also?





 
With your fingers pull the center of the governor out and away from the fly weights..."Governor w/shaft CUP ASSEMBLY"
Then remove CAP screws that attach "Governor weight Anchor Plate" to CAM sprocket.DO NOT REMOVE the Cam sprocket at this time from the camshaft! DO NOT turn engine over at this time!
Take a good look at the wear/sloppiness of the weight pins that attach the four weights to the ANCHOR PLATE.
Are the POINTS of each tooth on the CAM SPROCKET and CRANK sprocket POINTED /SHARP?
Here is some info that you may fine handy:
INFO used if SPROCKETS and CHAIN are replaced:
INFO you may REQUIRE
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine (2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed (3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness (4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down. (5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain. (6)There are NO timing MARKES on the NEW Sprockets. You may whish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets. (7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR hols in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four hols and all teeth line up. These hols are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up. (Cool It's good practise to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft)

Cheers Bob...
 

Thank you for information. I would like to know, that do I have to change these sprockets? I think these look good?
 
The picture you supplied suggests the CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET looks good as the teeth have width to them "they are not sharp/pointed". I'm not able to verify if the TEETH on the CAMSHAFT SPROCKET are runnable, as the OIL on the sprocket has caused the picture not to allow verification of the condition of the CAMSHAFT sprocket condition. The oil has caused the sprocket to be viewed out of focus.
 
Thanks. maybe it's better to change sprocket too.

Another question. Governor weight assembly (in cam sprocket). Check my picture. How it works? Governor shaft pull these (governor shaft have to be under weights)? I think when engine is running, so all the time centrifugal regulator is "with full power".
Is there any spring in "weight pads" which pull the "weight pads" back in the middle? Or is there in governor shaft (below) some spring?

I don't understand which pull/push governor shaft...
 
(reply to post at 12:08:55 09/21/15)

Now I got new crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket and
timing chain. Could someone tell me, what is have to be crankshaft sprocket middle hole tolerance? I compare old and new one sprockets middle hole, new one hole is 0,1 millimeter smaller than old one.

Is that new crankshaft sprocket faulty? Do I have to "polish up" sprocket in the right size? And do I have to use heating (is it necessary) when I install crankshaft sprocket?
 

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