Hi, slight problem with my TEA 20. The carb has been replaced and also the coil. Will start up perfect and run nice. then after 15 minutes starts to get a miss and keeps stalling Would this be the condenser? Is there any particular condenser for the tractor, which is 12 volt? Have been thinking about an EI , don't know where to order in Canada!!. Cheers, Murray
- Thread starter Murray2
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John Deere D
Well-known Member
Have you wired the ignition system / electrical system for POSITVE EARTH/GROUND or NEGATIVE EARTH/GROUND?
Are you using a Generator or an ALTENATOR?
6 Volt system?
Here are some notes I kept from a service on a 6 VOLT system.
Bob...
Are you using a Generator or an ALTENATOR?
6 Volt system?
Here are some notes I kept from a service on a 6 VOLT system.
Bob...
Hi, thanks for the quick responses. Yes it is 12 volt, negative ground and does have an alternator. Anyone with knowledge on the condenser? Normally only get the opportunity to drive tractor around the yard and in 4th gear seems to be quite fast. On Saturday going to a parade , where I had a chance to travel faster, the tractor did not have the speed that I thought it would travel. (Might be my imagination) Cheers, Murray
John Deere D
Well-known Member
I made an error on my below statement/ picture
It should have READ"
"Here are some notes I kept on my 12 VOLT SYSTEM."
I apologies.
Bob..
It should have READ"
"Here are some notes I kept on my 12 VOLT SYSTEM."
I apologies.
Bob..
Tony in Mass.
Well-known Member
Condenser is also my first hunch, and since you already bought a new coil- rather than trying another new one- and electrical components aren't refundable- get a new condenser- it is the tenth the cost of a coil, and it seems there are few dependable ones under any brand, you aren't the only one with this problem....
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
Best to catch it in the act.
Could very well be the ignition. Check the spark when it misfires, need to be quick in case it's heat related.
Did you change the coil when it was converted, and is it the right coil/ballast resistor combo? Should be around 3 ohms across the coil terminals, including the resistor if equipped. If it's wrong, could be weak spark, burned points, overheating coil. The coil needs to be right, even if you do convert it to electronic.
Condensers can be hard to diagnose. If you have an old one that was running, might try it. Check the point setting, check for distributor shaft bushing wear.
Then, it could be fuel. Try partial choke to see if it improves. If it does, could be a fuel restriction, vapor lock from the fuel line too close to the exhaust, non vented gas cap.
I see Ebay has some electronic kits from UK. Can they ship to you?
What's up with not shipping to Canada? Tariffs? Are all packages opened? Could an individual ship to you without question? There's got to be a way!
Could very well be the ignition. Check the spark when it misfires, need to be quick in case it's heat related.
Did you change the coil when it was converted, and is it the right coil/ballast resistor combo? Should be around 3 ohms across the coil terminals, including the resistor if equipped. If it's wrong, could be weak spark, burned points, overheating coil. The coil needs to be right, even if you do convert it to electronic.
Condensers can be hard to diagnose. If you have an old one that was running, might try it. Check the point setting, check for distributor shaft bushing wear.
Then, it could be fuel. Try partial choke to see if it improves. If it does, could be a fuel restriction, vapor lock from the fuel line too close to the exhaust, non vented gas cap.
I see Ebay has some electronic kits from UK. Can they ship to you?
What's up with not shipping to Canada? Tariffs? Are all packages opened? Could an individual ship to you without question? There's got to be a way!
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