To 30 good news bad news

Well the good news, went to work on the tractor today. It has been under a shed for the 25 years I know about. The oil looks great with no water contamination, the tranny fluid is clean as a whistle. I bought this from my Grandfathers estate and is new to me.
The leveler on the 3 point hitch was froze. It freed right up with a pipe wrench and PB Blaster. The screw rod is a little bent but not a big deal.
The manifold to exhaust pipe connection was leaking and needed an original clamp because it has a car muffler clamp. so I took it apart. The exhaust pipe end looks fine.
The bad news, the exhaust manifold is cracked on both ends. The rear end is worse than the front. That's the exhaust leak I heard. Better news the bolts, on the ends of the manifold, that I could get to with the very limited tools I had on hand came loose. 1 stud came out of the block with great threads. The inner bolts I could not get to.
So the questions. Will a socket fit onto the inner bolts? It does not look like it will. To tight with the manifold location. It looks like the best option would be to pull the gas tank to have room and flush it while I have it out. Should I replace all manifold studs while I'm in there? Seems like a no brainier but I wouldn't want to snap 1 off and open up a can of worms.
What's the best place to get the manifold with the exact fit and finish? I have read about poor alignment on some aftermarket parts. This site, Steiner? Jacks small engine? Ebay possibly only if I can tell who the seller is.
a200250.jpg
 
I would go ahead and remove the tank, rinse it out. And take the opportunity to set the valve clearance, replace the cover gasket.

Getting the manifold off will require an end wrench to get the close ones. Do whatever it takes to get on them, sometimes different brands of wrenches will offer slight differences to make it work.

Replacing the studs is a good idea. Some PB Blaster, tapping the end of the stud with a hammer will usually get them out. A little heat on the head surface around the stud will help, even as little as a Mapp gas or propane torch will provide can be just enough. Using the "double nut" method is best. Lock 2 nuts together on the stud, start rocking the stud back and forth instead of just powering it out, you'll feel it loosening up as the rust grinds away. While they are out is a good opportunity to scrape and sand the surface clean. Then run a tap in the holes, put the new studs in with anti-seize or teflon tape.

As far as where to buy the manifold, no supplier has any better or worse source for aftermarket parts that I know of. It appears the suppliers source each other for available parts. I've bought from one source only to have the part come with a competitors label on it!

Will it fit when you get it? No way to predict that...

But, this is a one piece manifold. Most of the problems incurred with manifolds not fitting is with the 2 piece manifolds, trying to bolt a new aftermarket exhaust to an old factory intake. You "shouldn't" have a problem, but with aftermarket parts anything is possible!
 
Thanks for the advise. Never thought about setting the valve clearance. Might as well get all the parts at once to avoid shipping costs. The bolts that I was able to get to loosened very easily. Hope the othe 4 are the same. I've read to maybe grind down a wrench to get on the bolts better. Worse comes to worse I could cut the manifold off and have clear access. Thanks again.
 
6 point sockets grab better than 12 point. If your grinding, grind the bottom of the socket where it slips over the fastener. This will allow it to sit flatter on the fastener. PB Blaster, Seafoam Deep Creep and Kroil are three of the best penetrating oils to be found. If you can locate it, you can also use Howes penetrating and Lubricating oil.
Wanna go cheap? try heating up the nuts and push a candle into the threads. The heat will melt the candle and it will flow into the threads. Too much heat and you get a fire. Ask me how I know THAT one.
 
Thanks again for the advise. The first thing I bought after I got the tractor home was a tarp. Gotta keep it under cover until the metal carport 12x21 gets put in place, the the owners manual, parts book and the Ferguson shop manual. Thanks for posting the parts numbers, I was wondering about the TO35 style, which I have read fit, because of the gasket style exhaust pipe connection. I'll stay with the original.
Have a great Labor Day, and that's coming from a President of a Labor Union!
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top