Ferguson identification

I am an auto mechanic, but have agreed to work on a friends tractor. It has water in the oil, so clearly there is going to be some disassembly.
Which means I'll need parts, which means I'm gonna have to know the model I'm working on. I don't.
Can someone guide me here? The owner thought it was a '48, but this site tells me it's a '50.
Thinking it is a TO 20, but not sure. What do I need to know and where can I find that information, on what model this thing is?
Thanks very kindly.

Phil, the serial is for a 1950 TO-20.

I think I can see the oil filter access hole cover on the bottom of the oil pan - that makes it the Continental Z120 engine, which is the right one for a TO-20. (Can you read the serial number plate on the left side of the engine, between the coil and the distributor?)

The air intake isn't quite right: looks like someone fitted a Ford 9N/2N air cleaner at some point.

These are well known for cracked blocks. Check for cracks between the cylinders

(quoted from post at 17:42:23 09/04/15) Phil, the serial is for a 1950 TO-20.

I think I can see the oil filter access hole cover on the bottom of the oil pan - that makes it the Continental Z120 engine, which is the right one for a TO-20. (Can you read the serial number plate on the left side of the engine, between the coil and the distributor?)

The air intake isn't quite right: looks like someone fitted a Ford 9N/2N air cleaner at some point.

Click to expand...

I first want to thank you and Tracy Brown for your replies. Being new to the forum I don't see a plus rep button. I appreciate it much.
here is a pic of the engine plate. Hope you can make more sense of it than I.

Tracy, will these motor blocks crack and not cause any other symptons than water in the oil? Because that is all that is obvious to me.

Having worked on cars some 40 years I'm leaning to the previous repair work somehow being faulty.
Are these liners a press fit, and will I need a special tool to R&R them to replace the seals?

Oops! forgot the pic

Something for you to ....well get your bearings before you tackle the monster...
PARTS MANUAL:
FORM NO. 693 041 M2
Unfortunately my SPECS. manual is for my TEA-20.........different Engine.
Bob......

First, welcome to the forum. Now the engine is a very straight forward inline four and easy to work on. If you have a manual you will do well.
The sleeves are "wet sleeves" and are slightly pressed in so their lower o rings seat in the bottom web. A simple sleeve puller can be made
with threaded rod and a metal block to pull from the bottom and one on top above the sleeve to pull it out. I believe their are some pictures in
the archives.

Once the sleeves are out you can clean the inside of the block and have a look at the web between the cylinders. Look for hairline cracks on
the lower section, you may also see some on top. The upper cracks are not the worry as they are taken care of by the head gasket. The lower
cracks will need to be addressed.

Let me jump a second, you may just be looking at failed lower O rings on the sleeves. If so clean up everything and start rebuilding.

Ok if lower cracks are there there are three well four methods to fix, 1. Pin or bolt the block, a bolt is tapped through the lower web and then
tightened to close the crack (I have had this done to two of my tractor with very good results) 2. Furnace weld the crack and mill out the
cylinder seat. 3. Some people on this site have had success with JB weld. And finally 4. Find a better block.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress

Thanks Tom.
I'm thinking that the previous overhaul job perhaps didn't include the liner seals or maybe they weren't installed properly. I hope, anyway.
I have had some wet sleeve engine experience on Renault Alliance and Encore and proper liner installation is critical on them, as I assume it would be on this engine.
I'll start disassembly next day or two and I'm sure you'll be hearing from me again.
I appreciate all the help.

Pulled the head this morn. Real happy the head studs didn't give me any trouble. I've done some old flathead Ford heads that were so seized on the studs the head literally came off in pieces. This engine has certainly been down in the near past. There is a ton of piston to cylinder clearance, but it wasn't noisy so I'm not going to worry about it. Cylinders look good, head gasket was intact.
So, unfortunately but not unexpectedly, the liners will have to come out.
Try to do that tomorrow. Having to work outside since my shop is currently being borrowed so when the sun starts to cook me, this old fat man finds shade.
I will say this: A few months ago someone came and wanted to sell me a Matco rollaround type box. Since I have a shop I didn't really see a need for it, but when I was at a dealership it would have come in handy. However, the price was cheap and I picked it up. It is perfect for this job. All the pieces but the hood and gas tank fit on it.