cracked block TE20

Mark W · Oct 18, 2008

Yes, I'm the owner of a 1948 TE20 with a cracked block (as is all too common). I've been to a diesel block repair shop only to find out they want $1500+ to repair it. I'm now faced with scrapping it, using another engine, or finding another block. Suggestions? Any spare Perkins diesels out there? Thanks

Anonymous-0 · Oct 18, 2008

there is repair where threaded rod is put though the block and the crack is pulled back together. The crack is filled with sealer first.

Bob (Aust) · Oct 19, 2008

Mark. Do a search - I'm sure the guys were reporting that a Continental furnace braze block repair cost around $400? Shop around.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 19, 2008

Wait a minute> Would that TE not be a Standard engine and not a Perkins? Where is it cracked?

Duner Wi · Oct 19, 2008

Here is a P3 conversion
fergy.com.au/p3.html

Bob (Aust) · Oct 19, 2008

"Yes, I'm the owner of a 1948 TE20..." = Continental Z120 engine.

Can't say I've ever heard of a Standard engine block cracking.

Jerry/MT · Oct 19, 2008

Do a search in the archives. There are several block repair shops and the charges are around $400-500. That's competitive with a finding a good used block but not as difficult. For $1500 you can get a remanufactured short block!

Mark W · Oct 19, 2008

The problem is this....If I'm able to get the block repaired for $400 + shipping, I still will need to completely rebuild the engine, including grinding the crankshaft and flattening the block and head. That's another $1000. Or I could buy a used block for $400 + $1000 or part out the tractor and start again with a different one. By the way, it has a Continental Z120 block with cracks up top between Cylinders 1-2, 2-3, and a larger one 3-4. Just meant to ask about Perkins.

Richard L · Oct 20, 2008

No a TE 20 should be a Continental Z 120 block.
Richard

Anonymous-0 · Nov 4, 2008

YES, THE STANDARD ENGINE BLOCK CAN AND WILL CRACK. I JUST REBUILT ONE TO A TUNE OF CLOSE TO $3000 BY THE TIME I WAS THRU. IT STARTED OUT LIKE JOHNNY CASH"S CADILAC-ONE PIECE A A TIME. ORDERED ALL THE PARTS AND THE MAN REPLACING VALVES FOUND CRACKED HEAD, HAD IT WELDED. THEN THE OVERHAULER FOUND A 18" CRACK ALONG THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK THAT WAS NOT APPARENT UNTIL THE GUY HAD PUT ALL NEW SLEEVES, PISTONS, CRANK, CAM BEARINGS AND THE WHOLE NINE YARDS. SHOWED UP WHEN TORQUEING THE HEAD DOWN. HAD TO PULL IT ALL BACK DOWN AND THE GUY AT THE SHOP I CARRIED IT TO SAID HE HAD DONE SEVERAL OF TYPE BLOCKS. COST ME ANOTHER $300 FOR THAT FIX. THEN $40.00 TO REPAIR THE CRACK IN THE MANIFOLD. BOY WAS I ALL CRACKED UP. (PUN INTENDED)

TOM

Denis g Foyte · Nov 19, 2008

Well I have a 1948 TE20 also. i rebuilt it 4 years ago, then found out the block was cracked (water in the oil) talked to a old guy I know who has been a mec for over 60 years, He said drain the system down flush out with water 2 or 3 times go to napa get the best block sealer they have it is not compatable with antifrezze, run engine do as directions say, reflush fill with antifreeze run tractor it has been 4 years i plow and disc 12 ackers every year plus plow in winter,still no leak!!!!!!!! beats a new block and if it starts to leak do it again but old Zack says it won't leak again. worked for me

john[mo] · Nov 19, 2008

my te20 came with water in the oil also. i never found out where it was coming from i just used the ceramic block sealer and it has been fine for over a year now. i did my by the letter and let it dry with shop vac blowing in the radiator neck. i would do a compression test before i used block sealer. my compression was fine with no smoke out the tailpipe. it was worth the money and time to me to go that route before tearing the engine down.

Seamus · Aug 29, 2015

Can you please tell me what you used to seal the engine block as we have a similar problem or where do you get it from?
about 6 inches long between the 2 frost plugs and have been told that is not viable to weld it.

Jason S. · Aug 29, 2015

(quoted from post at 01:42:55 10/19/08) Yes, I'm the owner of a 1948 TE20 with a cracked block (as is all too common). I've been to a diesel block repair shop only to find out they want $1500+ to repair it. I'm now faced with scrapping it, using another engine, or finding another block. Suggestions? Any spare Perkins diesels out there? Thanks

Cracks up at the top of the block do not hurt it. I have ran one for years with cracks between every cylinder. I put a lot of hours on mine every year. It does all the plowing,raking hay,discing,etc...get you a can of Bars Leak Copper. It says liquid glass formula on it. I used to use K&W Block Seal but I switched to the Bars Leak because it is now antifreeze compatible although I drained mine and flushed it when I added it. What I like about the Bars Leak is you can leave it in the cooling system and it hurts nothing. Bars Leak states that you can and I can say 4 years later under heavy loads and lots of hours...it has hurt nothing. The engine runs right around 180 degrees in the summer. No stopped up radiator or anything. The reason the cracks at the top will not hurt anything is because the head gasket seals to the top of the sleeves not the block. The sleeves stand up several thousandths above the deck of the block.

cracked block TE20

Mark W

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Anonymous-0

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Bob (Aust)

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Anonymous-0

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Duner Wi

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Bob (Aust)

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Jerry/MT

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Mark W

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Richard L

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Anonymous-0

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Denis g Foyte

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john[mo]

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Seamus

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Jason S.

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